Buying a new Truck

[TheGoose]

Well, I understand what you are saying on keeping them separate. But when going to different dealers etc. it's just a lot of numbers floating around.

In the end, the drive out price is final. Slice and Dice how you want, TT&L is set. Dealer prep, destination charge etc. are not.

I'm not trying to diss you in any way. I'm just looking for recent quotes and pricing from fellow TBN members.

I'll give you a donut on the gearing. I'm still un-moved. I bet I never come out of 4th gear coming to work save for two bridges and two stop lights. I can see where it keeps you in the power band sweet spot. Like I said, maybe in a few months I'll come in here bragging on the 6-8 speeds.

It lets you see how they arrived at the total. The more information you see equals more opportunities for you to find a way to save. I agree that some of the fees are fixed but so are some of the cost of the vehicle. You asked for advice on how to make a deal and that is what I was trying to give. But then again you told another poster that you know how to play the game so I guess I don't understand your POV either.







So I din't win anything? Your response was that you were "only partially right". The final ratio of the 1st and final gear is only half the story. The thing to look for is the difference in the spread. You can then make up your total gearing by changing the rear end ratio as Dmace mentioned. The object is obviously keeping the engine in the "power band" during acceleration. There is a reason over the road truck have so many gears. COME ON, I DESERVE A DONUT!

 

[toppop52]

Titan got behind because they didn't sell enough to warrant spending money on upgrades, no 6 cylinder base truck, no long bed, no regular cab, very poor real world gas mileage, etc... In fact Nissan was going to pull the plug altogether and go with a re-badged Ram until the financial crises caused Chrysler to lose the deal. Then Nissan decided to just build the same truck until it wasn't profitable. They now appear ready to build a new truck to released for 2014-2015, but who knows?

 

[two_bit_score]

I have to agree with you on the ride of a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. I just bought a 3/4 ton and as a rule it rides rougher. In some ways it tends to skip less over bumps than the 1/2 ton I traded in, but a lot of the ride quality is the tires. They carry more air and are a stiffer tire.

Got to say I prefer the ride of my 2011 chevy 2500 over the ride of our 2008 Yukon XL.



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[WilliamBos]

Got to say I prefer the ride of my 2011 chevy 2500 over the ride of our 2008 Yukon XL.



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I agree. When my 04 1500 needed tires, I ditched the crappy Passenger tires in favour of LT. I prefer the stability the stiffer sidewall offers, especially in heavy winds.


Rides a little stiffer, but better than the 'wallowing pug in mud' ride it had before.

 

[TheGoose]

Looks like early returns on an XLT Eco Boost crew cab nicely equipped are coming in about ~$34K drive out price with no trade-in. Doesn't sound too far off from my expectations. This truck has the electronic locking differential and back-up camera in addition to the regular stuff like PW/LS/Cruise etc.

Wonder how much lower it can go, if any?

 

[crashz]

Goose,

I bought a 2012 Chevy 2500 (gas, ECSB, 4x4, LT) in late Jan. $41K sticker and ended up paying right about $35K. My 2004 GMC 1/2 ton (5.3L, 4x4, RCLB, SLE) with 178K miles only turned a trade of about $5000. That was about the average trade I was offered by 5 dealerships. It ran fine but had a failed BCM, and a big dent on the bed.

I got an OK deal, but it was nothing to write home about. I qualified for $5K in rebates of the $6K from the sticker, so the dealer didn't do much compromising. They did install a bed liner though. The truck purchase was mostly due to immediate need and I was not going to finance something that I didn't thoroughly want. I went into each dealer knowing exactly what I wanted, and simply shopped for the best price.

All but one dealership were abosulutely horrendous to deal with (this includes my selling dealer). Thieves and liars flood this arena. The best dealer is the furthest away, and if I had to do it all again, I would buy from them at a higher price. I have gone to them for service so far and due to the great customer service I get, I have bought all of my accessories from them.

Love my new truck. My wife calls it "the girlfriend".

Best of luck and don't forget the photos!

 

[TheGoose]

Looks like a F-150 Crew Cab with a 6.5' box and Eco Boost engine are as rare as hens teeth.

Have to go to the big city to find what I want. I hate those kind of dealers.

 

[jejeosborne]

As I mentioned earlier, order it. I wouldn't want a new ecoboost someone else test drove. I know what I did on my test drive.

 

[Groo]

I didn't read all 9 pages, but don't discount the Chevy Avalanche. Its nice having an 8' bed on occasion, even if it is less than 6.5' most of the time. It also rides much better than a real truck. That said, ecoboost all the way. Fuel efficiency is getting a whole lot more important to me, and the prices just keep going up and up. I have yet to read a bad thing about that engine, besides it was hard to set-up for a rear wheel dyno run (oh deer). I also absolutely love the integrated brake controller in the F-350 I drive. I assume they put the same one in the half tons. That thing just kicks the snot out of the top of the line add-in unit I put in our Avalanche. I'd take a drive to find one or just place an order to get the best.

 

[ericher69]

OK, the Chevy is still going strong at 9 years old but no matter what I do it will never be a Crew Cab and I really need the room (kids aren't getting any smaller).

Current truck is an extended cab, moving up to a full crew cab. The only brands I will consider have to have a full 6.5' bed and 4x4. No 5' beds. I am only considering half-ton trucks, I really want to stay away from the HD's.

What I am looking for is good solid adivce on how to make a deal. I probably plan on selling my current truck outright rather than trade it in, but that can change if I get the right deal.

Please don't mention anything about "ask to see the invoice", only a fool would follow that route. I have bought several new vehicles, but none in the last few years.

Ford F-150 Eco-Boost is at the top of my list, but I'm open to Dodge, Toyota, or anybody. GM doesn't make the cut because they don't/won't make a 1/2 Truck crew cab with a 6.5' bed or else they would be close to the top. I'm not really crazy about their styling anyways.

No hurry to buy, 3-6 month timeline. Probably finance anywhere from $20-30K with a good sized down payment. I plan to shop several dealers and see who has the best deal/incentives like I always do. If I can't make a deal I like I might just wait a while longer.

For god sakes, please no more brand bashing. We've had enough of that. If anybody has any recent prices please feel free to post up total drive out cost.

When I was in the market for a new truck in '06 this is what I did.

1. Price the exact truck (get your options sheet)
Or even better stay with a package. Online

2. Travelled to all dealers within 150km

3.got quotes from every dealer for same truck

4. Bought in October ( '07 where out)

5. Came to local dealer last and told them what I was willing to pay

6. Showed them proof of quotes from 3 dealers for same truck that was about 4 hrs away

7. Bought locally when they agreed to price

8. Did not take ANY of their bs sales tactics!

9. Oh before signing I told them I did not want the factory plastic liner -$450 and told them I wanted a colour matched line-x spray in liner
+$700. They said they could not do so I walked away after about 2hrs of negotiating.
They called me that afternoon and said deal!

I will probably never buy another new truck (unless I win the lottery)