TC33d overheat problem

[RickB]

OK, I'm listening. How would you do it differently?

Drain and fill the crankcase prior to starting the tractor. Or at least crack the drainplug as Larry suggests.

 

[BigE_]

My parts finally came in and I'll be starting in on putting the tractor back together tonight.

Costs thus far:
Head gasket = $75
Water pump gasket = $6
Valve cover gasket = $21
Oil Filter = $15
Gallon of oil = $11 (3 gallons of 15W-40 on sale at Costco right now for $32)
Gallon of antifreeze = $8
Gallon of water = $2
Sub total = ~$138

In addition, I'm replacing the fuel filter, hydraulic filter, second hydraulic oil filter, hydraulic fluid. This adds another $150 to my cost. (It's almost time anyway).

Question: When I picked up my parts from New Holland, the parts guy recommended that I have the head magnetically checked for microscopic cracks. He said any machine shop should be able to do it, but he didn't have any recommendations for a local shop. This is the first I've heard of this, and it does make sense to some degree, but I'm wondering if anyone has had this done? Recommend doing it?

Right now I just need to get the tractor back together and in use, and I hadn't even thought of checking for microscopic cracks, but now I'm worried a little.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks!
-Steve

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The process is called magnafluxing. It is a good way to find cracks. However, not all cracks are problematic. . I think pressure testing is a better way to go.
Did you figure out if it had the wrong head gasket on it.
Bill

 

[BigE_]

I'm pretty sure it had the wrong head gasket on it. At least now, more holes line up than they did before.

There are still two extra holes in the new gasket that don't line up with anything. This is because they use the head gasket on more than one head, so I guess that makes sense. (However, this is the point of failure on the older one).

There are still two holes in the new gasket that are much smaller than the corresponding holes in the head. There are also two holes in the head that don't have corresponding holes in the gasket. This part here makes zero sense to me, but the guy at the parts counter said it was normal. Dunno. Just doesn't compute. Why would you use a thin gasket material to block or reduce flow???

So, thumbs up or thumbs down on getting the head pressure tested or magnaflux tested?

I had a 7pm meeting tonight for work, and it looks like I'll have meeting tomorrow and Friday night as well, so if I can find a place to test it tomorrow, I may get it back in time to put it all together on Saturday.

I need to get it going Saturday, though. I have downed trees I need to get moved before the property they are on gets sold. I also have equipment sitting up there with no way to move it... Can't get my truck back into the trees where it is sitting. Not my property, either, and I really don't like leaving equipment on other people's property, especially when that property is for sale and people are looking at it all the time.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

If possible I would get it pressure tested. If you cannot get it pressure tested get it magnafluxed. If you get it magnafluxed and find some cracks see if they go into a water jacket. If the don't I wouldn't worry about them.
Bill

 

[BigE_]

Thanks. I'm now looking for a place that will pressure test it

 

[BigE_]

No cigar on the pressure testing. Found a place that can do the magnaflux test, though. $30 since it was small and already cleaned up. Everything looks good.

So, this Saturday I'll be putting it all back together. Thinking maybe I'll try to get a video of it, but we'll see.

 

[iowawoods]

Reviving a very old thread, and somewhat hi-jacking since I've got similar problems on my TC33D, except that it will now overheat even when idling. When I first got it, I could barely get the temperature gauge to go into the green unless I was really pushing it. Now it goes into the green after 5 minutes of use, and will go into the red after 15 minutes of use (and much of that is at 2800 RPM in 3rd going down the road).

If I spray water on the radiator while running, it cools down quickly.

The radiator was a little dirty, so I removed the screen and cleaned it out thoroughly. No plugged fins, and I can see through it just fine in most places. The hydraulic fluid radiator was a little dirtier. I took that off and thoroughly cleaned it, and also straightened some of the fins that were bent. Finally, I made sure that the fan belt was tight.

It still starts getting hot quickly. Reading back through, I noticed a section about air leaks. Could this be my problem?

I shot a video of the radiator fluid movement once the tractor got warm. There is definitely a lot of bubbles coming up through. Could someone please review this video and tell me if it is normal, or if I have a head gasket change out in my future?

The good news is that I'm not getting white exhaust, and the oil is not getting water in it.

[youtube_browser]jbhfwGbndQc[/youtube_browser]
First I have the tractor at about 2500 RPM, then I lower it down to an idle, and finally raise it back up to about 2300RPM

i work with a mechanic(former) he now works at railroad---he said a lot of motors have a tendency to warp thermostat , everything looks normal but thermostat will stick closed causing overheating

 

[BigE_]

i work with a mechanic(former) he now works at railroad---he said a lot of motors have a tendency to warp thermostat , everything looks normal but thermostat will stick closed causing overheating

Thanks. I did verify that the thermostat was opening up. I've got the head off now and found a place where the head gasket had failed.

 

[BigE_]

I've got it most of the way back together now. Here's a video of the first start up. It seems to be running fine.

I ran it for about 15 minutes to warm it up, then shut it down and drained the oil, then put in new oil.

I then ran it for another 30 minutes at 2,000 RPMs. After 30 minutes, the temperature gauge was just starting to get into the green. This is maybe a little quicker than normal, but then again, right now I'm running straight water because I forget to go and buy more antifreeze. I'll get that changed out tomorrow.

I'm leaking fuel from around the injectors. I'm pretty sure I need to replace those little brass washer with a little hole in them, because that's where I'm leaking fuel. So, more work to go. In the meantime, here's the video.

Oh, and I captured almost the entire thing on video, so I'll be editing that and posting soon.

Edit: Video didn't upload correctly. Trying to fix that now.

[youtube_browser]Not here yet[/youtube_browser]