Need advice / lesson on welding thin steel

[rcowan]

I like the Wall videos. I have the FCAW, O/A welding and O/A cutting videos.


RC

I have a lincoln tombstone AC/DC and am self taught for the most part. Classes are not an option, neighbors look at my work and say its nice but don't seem to offer up much more education.

So, I need to weld thin steel. I did it once before with a nice miller mig.

What I learned from the mig was not to try and push a puddle but to just draw a straight line. But I am really messing up with Stick.

I am talking 1/8" square tubing for the moment.

So, can someone talk me through the basics or point me to a video that shows it being done? I figure a small rod, low amps, pull straight and practice, but so far I am either punching holes or not getting any glueing action.

Carl

 

[Gary Fowler]

I had to go back to your original post which I thought you said AC machine but I see you have an AD/DC so you shouldnt have any problem running a quick pass with 60xx (whatever you have will run on DC 6010,6011,6013)just to seal the gaps. 60xx rods weld across gaps better than 70xx rods but if you keep it tight the 70xx rods will work. For 1/8th material, you shouldnt have any trouble welding with a 3/32 7018 or what ever 70 series rod that you have or runs well for you. I personally don like any of the 7014 or 7024 rods but each to his own. But stop and let the metal cool after welding a bit. Practice will dictate when you need to stop and let it cool. 3/32 run well on my maching at 70 amps but your may be different. You do want it hot enough to burn without sticking constantly and not so hot that it will be melting hole. Find the lowest setting that will easily burn the rod. I realize that on the Lincoln you dont have infinite controls so pick a range that burns the rod but doesnt stick. Once a rod sticks a few times, it wont weld right and needs to be set aside to cool. I would start on the corners and weld to the middle and stop move to the other side do the same thing let it cool and repeat.
I still haven seen that you stated what you were trying to build.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep, 6013 is much better for thin stuff than 6011. And 1/8" thick tubing should be easy with 6013. Its not exactally sheet metal.

Soundguy, have you gave any 7014 a try. I honestly cant tell a difference in how it runs compaired to 6013. But it is a 70 series rod so its a tad stronger.

havn't tried it.. migth grab some next time i'm out to pick up supplies.

for most stuff i do.. I doubt another 10K psi is ging to make much difference on mild steel though...

 

[LD1]

havn't tried it.. migth grab some next time i'm out to pick up supplies.

for most stuff i do.. I doubt another 10K psi is ging to make much difference on mild steel though...

Your are probabally right. And another 10k psi isnt going to make a difference in what I do either. But IMO, they are both the same to run, you really cant tell a difference. And the price is the same as well. So I figure why not?

 

[Sublifer]

I agree with the 7014 or 6013 in a 3/32 rod. While 7018 would be nice, if you are going to run strips here and there to minimize heat in an area and warpage then you don't want 7018. The tip glasses over and makes it difficult to restrike your arc. I would skip around as Gary suggested though.

 

[undercut]

I will be trying to weld 1/8 square tubing soon as well so this is all good advice. Should I weld electrode negative to put more heat on the electrode instead of the steel to help avoid blowing a hole?

 

[k0ua]

I will be trying to weld 1/8 square tubing soon as well so this is all good advice. Should I weld electrode negative to put more heat on the electrode instead of the steel to help avoid blowing a hole?

I don't, not saying it might not be a good idea. I have never tried it. I have had good results with 6013 7018 and 7014 on 1/8 materiel. the 1/8 is not "thin" to my way of thinking. I would probably use either 3/32 7014 or 3/32 7018 as a first choice. When it gets "thin" I use the TIG torch:laughing:

Like Gary said, skip around a bit and don't keep building up heat at the end of the bead until it melts and drops out.

James K0UA

 

[cowski]

if you are melting through then turn it to e-.

 

[LD1]

the 1/8 is not "thin" to my way of thinking.

Thats what I was thinking too.

In my "thinking" thin dont start until 16ga or thinner.

 

[Soundguy]

Thats what I was thinking too.

In my "thinking" thin dont start until 16ga or thinner.

I agree.. 1/8 and up I still weld on my hobart 235.. much thinner.. like real sheet metal.. etc.. I switch over to the 30/70 stick and the smaller 1/16 and 5/64 rods..e tc...


may pick up a tube of 7014 at lunch and make some test welds vs 6013 this weekend to see how it looks. walmart has 1# or whatever those lil flat pack holders have in them.. 1/4# or whatever...7014 in stock in 3/32.. so if I don't like it.. nothing much wasted..

soundguy