To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion?

   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #21  
You and TxDon both have the same tractor mfg. so it might even be a common thing for your rims, but most folks haven't mentioned it.

I found that if I didn't have at least 40 psi in the front of the old ford 2WD with a good load in the bucket the tires really looked flat, almost cupped when making a turn. They didn't look that bad going straight but the real
stress is on the tire when it is making a turn with a lot of weight on it.
I run between 40-44 psi in them all the time and one is an original tire with over 3000 hours on it. They do have tubes.
My newer tractor is 4WD and has agricultural tubless radials all the way around.
The book calls for 36 in the front but they look better and steer better with a FEL loaded with dirt at 40 psi.
Neither of my tractors are used on a paved surface at speed. If you use your tractor between farms on a paved road then you must consider that situation.

The above is what works for me. I'm not suggesting that you go beyond the specifications of your tires or your tractor manual. Only you can decide the final solution for your problem.
Ron
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #22  
There are exceptions to all rules at all times. I don't care what kinda
tires, if that were happening to me I would go to 50 and see what happens. Ags or not. You have tried the squirt and run method to no
avail, try the free suggestion is my suggestion before throwing good money after bad...

OR, pull the tires, bead blast them, powder coat them and when you
re-install make SURE the beads are squeeky clean using the soap and
water lube to assemble.

Maybe you should pull each wheel one at a time and pump them up
good and submirse them in a tub of water also.

I hope you find it, what a pita that would be.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #23  
A simple trick for installing tubes is put a little air in the tube once you have it in place before you try to use the spoons to put the tire back on. You want enough air to give the tube some shape so it can't get pinched but not enough to keep you from getting the tire back over the rim.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #24  
How much over the max spec are you guys upping the pressure to??? And do you have Ag's or R4's??



I guess I never thought of that. IF you dont mind my asking, how much did that cost? And what kind of places do foam filling? Cause I dont know any off the top of my head around me that do it.

I bought the tractor that way so I don't know how much it cost.
Foam filling is pretty common so there are places that do it, if you Google foam filled tires you can get a lot of info.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #25  
How much over the max spec are you guys upping the pressure to??? And do you have Ag's or R4's??

I have R4s and upped them to about 10 lbs. over.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I wouldn't worry about the warnings on the side of the tire and bump them
up to about 50PSI cold and see if that helps.

Well...I think foaming is out. I called the local ag tire dealer (the one who quoted $30/tube installed) and asked about foam. He sends them out. There is no one local that does it. Didnt get a firm quote but he said $125-$150 per tire for a 7-16. More than I want to spend.

Also, the link I posted for the tire sealer (like slime) at walmart......well, even though they list it as avaliable, the stores around here dont carry that......

TSC has gallons of actual slime but it is a tad higher. $30.:mad:

Anyone know how many gallons it would take to fill to just above the bead??? I like that Idea but I think it is just going to be too much$$$. A 7-16 @ 75% fill is 8 gallons. So I am guessing it would probabally take 2-3 gallons just to get above the bead:confused2:

I will probabally end up going the tube route. Since a gallon of slime would be about the same as that.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #27  
Well...I think foaming is out. I called the local ag tire dealer (the one who quoted $30/tube installed) and asked about foam. He sends them out. There is no one local that does it. Didnt get a firm quote but he said $125-$150 per tire for a 7-16. More than I want to spend.

Also, the link I posted for the tire sealer (like slime) at walmart......well, even though they list it as avaliable, the stores around here dont carry that......

TSC has gallons of actual slime but it is a tad higher. $30.:mad:

Anyone know how many gallons it would take to fill to just above the bead??? I like that Idea but I think it is just going to be too much$$$. A 7-16 @ 75% fill is 8 gallons. So I am guessing it would probabally take 2-3 gallons just to get above the bead:confused2:

I will probabally end up going the tube route. Since a gallon of slime would be about the same as that.
Tubes would be the smartest way. Slime is a mess and may not stop the leak.
I've been told that the only way to get a foamed tire off is to destroy it.
If you Google "Kubota tractors leaking rims" you will find that this has been
a problem for some time under certain batches of their design. Some folks claim it is always the right rim. Which one of yours is leeking?
A little extra air will help keep from breaking down the sidewalls as you have had a number of testaments to on this thread.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Tubes would be the smartest way. Slime is a mess and may not stop the leak.
I've been told that the only way to get a foamed tire off is to destroy it.
If you Google "Kubota tractors leaking rims" you will find that this has been
a problem for some time under certain batches of their design. Some folks claim it is always the right rim. Which one of yours is leeking?
A little extra air will help keep from breaking down the sidewalls as you have had a number of testaments to on this thread.

It is actually my left tire.

BUT....My left tire started life as my right. I flipped them from side to side to gain about 1" extra offset. (my valve stems are now on the inside).

But, in the past it was BOTH. A few cans of fix-a-flat (which isnt actually fix-a-flat, it is some generic stuff the local general store carried), and the problem was solved for the last two years. The leaking just now started happening again. So I am sure the other rim isnt far behind.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #29  
Mine was also the left front tire.
 
   / To TUBE or not to TUBE: that is the qestion? #30  
It is actually my left tire.

BUT....My left tire started life as my right. I flipped them from side to side to gain about 1" extra offset. (my valve stems are now on the inside).

But, in the past it was BOTH. A few cans of fix-a-flat (which isnt actually fix-a-flat, it is some generic stuff the local general store carried), and the problem was solved for the last two years. The leaking just now started happening again. So I am sure the other rim isnt far behind.

It sounds like the way you flipped them to gain width kept the tread design
in the correct direction, if your tires are in fact directional.
You mentioned a while back that you had removed the tires from the rims yourself. Except for the 1" offset of the hub mount area are the rim beads
the same profile on each side of the rim?
The normal position for valve stems on Fords and on CNH New Holland is the inside to give them a little more environmental protection.
My tire guy usually cuts a piece of old tube to line the inside of the tires before putting in the tube. There is a flexible steel mesh liner for some tire sizes that gives even more protection to the tubes from puncture.
 

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