Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[Iplayfarmer]

I think M.W. was like sears put their name on things but someone else manufactured them. You might look it over rel close for an indication of manufacture.

I thought I looked it over good. All I found was the one tag from Montgomery Ward. I'll take another look, though. Any suggestions where to look? Inside? Underneath?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Holy #$@*! Has anyone else priced stove pipe lately?

This little $100 stove is going to cost a bundle just to install. I've kind of gotten used to the idea, though, and I'm going to have to get creative so I can fit it into the budget.

Question... What size stove pipe do I need if the oval flue is 7 1/2" X 3 3/4"? Does 6" sound right, or should I plan to install 8" pipe?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I got creative... See the attached picture of two 6' chimneys of UL listed 8" triple wall pipe that I bought for $20! I also got the box for the ceiling and a flashing for the roof.

I'll still probably need to get some single wall stove pipe and the oval adapter, but that will be a LOT less than the class A chimney.

Also, I marked out some of the holes for my poles. I waited until dusk and used a laser line to make sure the holes would be in line with the wall of my shop. I need to set two of the poles and build a fence on them before I tear down the existing fence to put in the second two poles. This workshop is being built into my pasture that currently houses 3 horses.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...I think I shared with you prior how to reduce the clearance. If you need more info send me a PM.

Here I am asking you for more help. I've attached a rough sketch of where I plan to put the stove. The dark grey in the pictures is a heat shield spaced 1" from the wall with a gap at the bottom to allow air behind it.

Do you have any advice on what to do around the window? I wrapped the shield around the side of the window, but I don't know if I should shield the sill or not. The window is vinyl, and I've already verified that vinyl windows are not combustibles.

I should be planting posts for the overhang on Saturday.

 

[Depmandog]

Here I am asking you for more help. I've attached a rough sketch of where I plan to put the stove. The dark grey in the pictures is a heat shield spaced 1" from the wall with a gap at the bottom to allow air behind it.

Do you have any advice on what to do around the window? I wrapped the shield around the side of the window, but I don't know if I should shield the sill or not. The window is vinyl, and I've already verified that vinyl windows are not combustibles.

I should be planting posts for the overhang on Saturday.

Vinyl does melt though, at what temp it hard to say. A quick search listed 100-250 Celsius. Also, sometimes the windows are vinyl wrapped over wood.

I think I would err on the side of caution and put a heat shield over the sill. Probably no aesthetic way to do it, but an option would be to span a heat shield across the sill 6-8 inches high. Set out from the heat shields on each side. In other words the shield would set proud one inch on top of the other shields.

Remember that unlabeled stoves require 36" clearance from combustibles, which can be reduced by 1/2 to 18" with the heat shields set 1" from the combustible surface with non combustible spacers. Single wall stove pipe requires 18" clearance. Use 3 sheet metal screws to attach stove pipe sections.

Looking good!!

 

[MotorSeven]

The vinyl window is going to be a problem. A solution would be to make a removable section of 1/2" concrete board/heat shield that you can slide in place to cover the frame of the window that is too close. Slide it in for winter, take it out in spring.

You don't have any distance measurments in your diagram, but if you put proper heat shield around it should be fine since that is a small stove. Don't forget about the floor....it also has to be protected.

Triple wall has a 2" clearance(I think) to combustibles, the only issue you may have it that it keeps flue temps down so much you may have crappy draft. A fix is going to be to add more flue up over the highest point on the roof by more than 3'. The only way to find out is wait for winter and fire it up, but generally the more flue length the better draft.

 

[radioman]

I was going to suggest a heat sheild as well. Basically anything that can reflect or absorb heat and have air behind it will protect the window. Is there any chance you can move the window over to protect it better with no heat protection on it?

AS for pipe - If my math is right -- ( I am not great at it but try) It comes out to 5.78 inch. If you are taking a pipe and make it go on outside part of collar - you probably will need a 6 inch pipe.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks for the replies. Good suggestions all around. My research says that a 1" airspace behind a non-combustible heat shield reduces the clearance by 2/3. I hope that's the case because that's all the more room I have. I'm planning an extra layer of protection by sheeting the wall behind the heat shield with a non-combustible material... cement board or something similar. This is a non-residential use, and I'm not subject to inspection due to the small size of the shop. What I need is practical functionality and safety. Following the codes seems to be the best option for practical safety. I need to keep in mind, too that the firebox for this little cookstove is only 14" X 8" X 8".

The windows I have bought are all vinyl... no wood. I like the suggestion of a removable shield over the window. There's no moving the window as that wall is already framed, and I wouldn't have room to move it anyway. I could start with the shield in and monitor temps. If I find that the shield is staying cool, I could remove it. I'd remove it for the summer for sure.

Here's a brainstorm... Glass is non-combustible. Maybe I could make the shield for the window out of glass so that it still lets light in.

One more question... Is there a way to but the shield on the stove instead of on the wall? Would that help my clearances?

 

[Depmandog]

Since you have such a small non inspected stove, and probably won't ever have a "raging" fire going while you aren't there...your clearance from stove to heat shield will probably be ok. BUT, unless the regs have changed I am positive that with an unrated stove you can only get down to 18" with a heat shield. I would not have a issue using it as you are building it given the circumstances.

However, that will most likely put your single wall stove pipe closer than 18" inches to what appears to be an unprotected wall. You will need to carry your heat shield up the wall behind the stove pipe.

As for using glass as a heat shield ...Might work, but I would end up breaking it...especially in such a small shop. I am kinda a bull in those situations.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks for the reply Depman. I just measured my drawing, and I have 17.5 inches from the back wall to the stove pipe. I can probably afford to move the stove forward a half inch. What's the best way to shield the top of the stove pipe as it goes through the roof?

For reference, I have about 15 inches clearance to combustibles on either side of the stove. The shields and wall sheating (cement board) will be withing that 15 inch clearance.