Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[Depmandog]

The chimney pipe uses a ceiling support box that holds the weight of the chimney pipe, plus ensures proper clearance from combustibles. Your stove pipe fits up into the chimney pipe at the bottom of the support box.

Here is a pic of a typical box. Frame your opening and secure the box a few inches below the finished ceiling.

 

[MotorSeven]

17.5? Close enough for me...go for it!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

My poles for the overhang are now set. I appologize in advance for the poor quality picture. The lighting was poor by the time I took the picture. I had a few challenges when digging the holes. We've been pretty dry, and the dirt was hard. Then, at one point I stuck the auger so hard that it took an 8' tube and a hydraulic jack to get it out of the ground. I was fighting the weather all day. It rained off and on. A few of my bags of concrete had started to set up because they got wet from the rain. I finally put on a jacket and did the last few poles in the rain. I'm pleased with the progress for today. I was afraid that I'd only get a couple of the poles set today... especially after some of the drawbacks.

One note on technique. In order to get the tops of the posts where I wanted them, I used a laser level to put a line down the top of the walls of the workshop. Then I plumbed the post and moved it around until the red laser dot was where I wanted it on the post. Lucky for me I realized before I set the first post that this technique only works if I set the poles furthest away first. Otherwise the poles closer to the wall obstruct the dot and there's no reference to line up the pole furthest away.

 

[ustmd]

Thanks for the replies. Good suggestions all around. My research says that a 1" airspace behind a non-combustible heat shield reduces the clearance by 2/3. I hope that's the case because that's all the more room I have. I'm planning an extra layer of protection by sheeting the wall behind the heat shield with a non-combustible material... cement board or something similar. This is a non-residential use, and I'm not subject to inspection due to the small size of the shop. What I need is practical functionality and safety. Following the codes seems to be the best option for practical safety. I need to keep in mind, too that the firebox for this little cookstove is only 14" X 8" X 8".

The windows I have bought are all vinyl... no wood. I like the suggestion of a removable shield over the window. There's no moving the window as that wall is already framed, and I wouldn't have room to move it anyway. I could start with the shield in and monitor temps. If I find that the shield is staying cool, I could remove it. I'd remove it for the summer for sure.

Here's a brainstorm... Glass is non-combustible. Maybe I could make the shield for the window out of glass so that it still lets light in.

One more question... Is there a way to but the shield on the stove instead of on the wall? Would that help my clearances?

Just one comment on the vinyl, as others have mentioned I would be careful about they melting or deforming from the heat. There was a an article in last month's Fine Home Building about vinyl siding deforming because of the reflected heat from the neighbor's low e windows. The article says it is more common problem these days with the advent of low-e windows and reduced distances from lot lines. So, if thin vinyl siding can deform from the reflected sun, I bet that a thicker window frame may deform from a wood stove.

Looks great.

 

[NormL]

T
Here's a brainstorm... Glass is non-combustible. Maybe I could make the shield for the window out of glass so that it still lets light in.

I'm thinking you have decided against the use of glass as a shield for the vinyl. I could be wrong, but my guess is that glass would not be effective enough either. I believe at least some of the heat radiation would pass through and warm/heat the vinyl.

Just my $.02!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'm thinking you have decided against the use of glass as a shield for the vinyl. I could be wrong, but my guess is that glass would not be effective enough either. I believe at least some of the heat radiation would pass through and warm/heat the vinyl.

Just my $.02!

I understand that the effectiveness of the heat shield is from the column of air that rises behind it. Most heat shield designs I've found call for 24 guage metal, and glass can't be any less of an insulator than 24 guage metal. I do still really like the idea of the glass. In fact if I put a glass pane of some sort in the shield in front of the window, I wouldn't even have to wrap the shield around the window frames.

I wonder how much that ceramic stuff is that they put in wood stove windows nowadays. It can't be cheap.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...I wonder how much that ceramic stuff is that they put in wood stove windows nowadays. It can't be cheap.

I looked it up. An online qoute for ceramic glass the size I need it was almost $500.

I'll settle for something else. I did look up lexan. It's good to about 400 degrees F. Lexan would be a lot easier to use than glass. I have time to figure it out, though. At the pace this project is going, I won't need to worry about the wood stove and heat shield until next year sometime.

P.S. I spent another $295 today for the rest of the lumber I need to put in the roof. That included 2X12's for the beams above the overhang.

 

[GLyford]

I did look up lexan. It's good to about 400 degrees F.

You could get another 51 degrees by using paper, but either way they're still made of carbon chains. I think I'd resort to an old aluminum frame storm window sash from a "triple-track" set before I went to lexan, it'd at least give you the metal frame to use for mounting it and protect the edges a little...but I don't know what they use for a gasket material to put the pane and frame together. That might be an issue. Hmmm...

 

[Member]

What do you use to create these sketches?

Thanks.

Here I am asking you for more help. I've attached a rough sketch of where I plan to put the stove. The dark grey in the pictures is a heat shield spaced 1" from the wall with a gap at the bottom to allow air behind it.

Do you have any advice on what to do around the window? I wrapped the shield around the side of the window, but I don't know if I should shield the sill or not. The window is vinyl, and I've already verified that vinyl windows are not combustibles.

I should be planting posts for the overhang on Saturday.

 

[Depmandog]

If you're set on using glass, I think I would use tempered glass. Of course, once glass is tempered, it cannot be cut or drilled - so the quickest way would be a trip to the glass store - find some thick plate glass, have it cut to size and corner drilled for mounting and then have it sent out for tempering.

If you weren't in a hurry, the glass company might have another batch to send out for tempering and you wouldn't bear all of the tempering cost. The last time I had glass tempered it cost me $50, and I was in a hurry. Granted this was probably 6 years ago - and there is a place in the city that does the tempering, so the glass company didn't have much expense getting my glass to the temperer.

Auto glass (thick tempered glass) is pretty strong stuff. It would hold up pretty well unless you smacked it with the stove poker. I can imagine swinging a long board in your small shop and hitting stuff...Plate glass would be a disaster in my opinion.