Need help with Water well.

   / Need help with Water well. #21  
I forgot how much our well cost to be drilled but it was around $3-4K. That included drilling, casing, grout, pressure tank, pump, etc. Our well is around 250 feet deep and the static water table is at 21 feet. $3,500 seems like a high amount to drop in a pump and install a pressure tank.

Later,
Dan

Dan - depth, and static level when pumping make a large delta in cost of pump and wire. We had our new well drilled 410' and 1.5HP pump and 10 Ga wire set at 375' total tab including drilling and 20' casing was $4500 and we had 2 GPM so they hydrofracked and we got 10 GPM - the fracking cost $1500 more ($6K total for the well) and the deal was if it didnt improve we didn't pay.

Now this was in 1997 - 15 years ago and I know prices have gone up. They replaced pump and motor only in 2007 for $1800 with labor - so I bought my own spare pump $900 (1.5 HP 10 GPM @ 350')

Pricing the material today for Valley's case would be about $2-2.5K in materials and most well guys mark up by 30-50% and charge some labor so $3500 isn't far off the mark with some profit figured in by my estimation.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #22  
+++ On Hydrofrac. I lived with a marginal well for several years. Hydrofrac gave us almost limitless water. The day it slows I'll frac again. Much cheaper than digging a new deep hole and no collateral digging, everything else is already done.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I'ed like to know more about Hydrofrac!

I want to install a Low Pressure cut out. Last I checked they were dear, around $200 or $300.

We tried to sound the well, this time the string got all bummed up, have to try again.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #24  
Valley,

Here's the Square D Low pressure cutout - its a manual reset $20. http://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J24M4CP-Pressure-Switch-Low-Pressure/dp/B000FKBY8W

You may be thinking about the electronic version that shuts the pump off - they are $150-250 range. THey can be found at the link I posted earlier for auqa sicence web site.

For hydrofracking attached is an article about water well hydrofracking - ours was fracked and it improved the flow from 2 to 10 GPM.

But if your well casing is almost your entire depth then you will have very little surface area to be fractured.
 

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   / Need help with Water well. #25  
But if your well casing is almost your entire depth then you will have very little surface area to be fractured. The well casing can be perforated.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#26  
In this well, re: the well drillers log, well casing the entire length, the slotted pipe is the last 20' at the bottom.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Wifey talked to the company that bought the pump, pipe, tank and all from the owner of the property before they left. The lady from that company says: The pump and pipe was dry when they brought it up.
If it was dry when they brought it up, it wasn't down into the water. When we sounded the well, with a string and weight, there was 45' of water.
In our next try the other day, the string got hung up on the rough pipe and was a birds nest when we brought it up.
I want to get a good reading and would like, if there is that amount of water static, to put the pump 10' from the bottom.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #28  
Check with your local building office, or possibly a health / water district office. Someone must have information that was submitted when the well was drilled to show its total depth and the depth of the casing (along with the type of casing being used). My property has a 300' well with 20' of casing. The rest is through bedrock. All the information is on file with the local Health District Office.

- In the case of "frac'ing"... The intent of the procedure is to open / re-open small fissures that will allow water to flow more readily, thus improving the recovery rate of a well. It is typically done by inserting equipment into the ground (not necessarily into the well itself), and then "blowing" large bursts of pressurized air into the ground. The bursts of air have to "go somewhere", and they end up making little cracks / fissures in the ground. If your well is cased all the way down, this process doesn't stand to help you much, if at all (likely, not at all).

- The level at which the water exists in the pipe is not as important as how quickly the well can recover the water to that level after being emptied. In VERY rough terms, 10' of 6" well casing can hold about 15 gallons of water. If you place your well pump 50' below the water level, that means you have approximately 75 gallons of water "above" the pump (and available to be removed from the well in any one pump cycle). This information becomes very important when you are considering how large of a pressure tank to install in your home (assuming you will use one). My 85 gallon tank holds about 21 gallons of water at high pressure (bladder type tank). In order for me to ensure that there is enough water in my well to fill this tank from empty when necessary, the pump can be no less than 15' below the water line.

You have to add additional depth below the water line to compensate for slow recovery versus use rate. 22.5 gallons of water are consumed by a low-flow shower head in 10 minutes time. If your well doesn't replenish at this same rate, then you have go deeper with the pump.

- How your well performs versus how your neighbor's well performs has nothing to do with anything except the EXACT LOCATION of each well independently. My well works great. I have a neighbor that routinely has water splash out over the top of their wellhead. Not that that is a problem, but it happens to them. Our houses are 750' apart. We're both at the top of a fairly large hill.

- "Pouring checmicals" in your well is not a problem if you understand what you are doing. Chlorine (in the form of pure household bleach or even tablets for swimming pools) is routinely used by well companies to sanitize a well. Research it and you'll find LOTS of information on how to do it, including how to cycle the bleach into the plumbing in the house, how long to let it all stand, and then how to flush it out so you can go back to drinking the water again.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #29  
Meburdick,


Good post - long but well written - I am too lazy to type that much.



Carl
 
   / Need help with Water well. #30  
Don't forget you can also send a camera down the well and really see what's going on.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #31  
Meburdick,


Good post - long but well written - I am too lazy to type that much.



Carl

Thanks, Carl. It's basically a culmination of the information I've learned about my well over the last couple of years as I've looked to upgrade / improve / fix some items. I have an excellent well company in the area that has been happy to discuss options with me and present me with very reasonably priced "projects" (they delivered and installed my new pressure tank, with the complete "T" setup, and removed all of the old stuff for less than I could buy the equipment for on line without shipping).

Don't forget you can also send a camera down the well and really see what's going on.

Very true... And, a good, respectable well company can cover a lot of this ground for you, much more quickly, and should be able to do it at a reasonably cost (if the prices aren't reasonable, keep calling until you find one where the costs make sense).
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Greetings, I talked to a well company, the guy says he was hired to research the well, and that the well is 335' to 340' deep and has static water at 256'.
I was able to get the well log that says the well is 310' deep---- there is no information of the well being deepened.
I will check the availability and price of a camera that can be lowered into the well. The depth of well and static water should be gathered at the same time.
Thankyou guys, it helps to have this chit chat while sizing up this job.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #33  
Ask him to show you the research he did. His statement would seem to imply that he found information that you did not.


Keep us posted with how you make out... The well company should have the tools to visually inspect the well with a camera as well as being able to measure everything for you.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #34  
Low pressure switch, cost me 25 bucks at the local hardware store on yesterday for my sister in laws well. Took 10 min to install.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Pete, I think what I am refering to, I should have called a low water switch. This would shut off the pump if the water level draws down below that of the pump, saving the pump from running dry.

The well log is posted on line, deepening a well should be posted also.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #36  
Valley,

What Pete installed was a low pressure cutout switch like I suggested too - it stops the pump when the pump output pressure drops 10PSI below the cutin pressure. This type has to be manually reset.

Symcom Pump Saver Plus Pump Protector for 230V, 1/3 HP to 1.5 HP Submersible Pumps, with Enclosure - 233P-1.5-ENCL What you are indicating is you want one of these an automatic cutoff when an abnormal situation occurs like low water level (low pressure) then a delay relay that kicks it back on after so many minutes.

This may be a good solution for a low yield well if you know the recovery rate (say 1 GPM) you can set the time to restart based on that.

Carl
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Carl, I don't know the recovery rate. The property was a repo. The story, talked to the neighbor, is the pump ran dry, the owner had a new pump installed, the new pump drew down and would not hold pressure. The owner than sold everything, pipe, pump, even the well cap to a company that doesn't drill wells just services them. The woman at that company says "when they pulled the pump out, the pump was dry."
That, to me, means the pump wasn't down into the water.
 
   / Need help with Water well. #38  
I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight outdoor surveillance camera - removed the mounting bracket and then it is just a 1-1/2" dia "head" complete with its own IR lighting. Think it was about $30 on sale. The wiring to it is just a 2-wire RCA plug, so it's easy to extend. I dropped it down our bore-hole (not using it as a well YET) to find where a rock had dislodged from the bore and blocked it.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight outdoor surveillance camera - removed the mounting bracket and then it is just a 1-1/2" dia "head" complete with its own IR lighting. Think it was about $30 on sale. The wiring to it is just a 2-wire RCA plug, so it's easy to extend. I dropped it down our bore-hole (not using it as a well YET) to find where a rock had dislodged from the bore and blocked it.

Good thinking! How deep is your well?
This well is 300' +.
 
   / Need help with Water well.
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Right now I need to find where the water stands in the well. I used contractors string to find the depth of the well. the line snags on the casing, I think I'll wax the string, with a candle, it should help.
 

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