Well pressure Switch question

[LouNY]

Check your tee's for the switch and gauges.
I have seen the tee's get plugged up with rust and corrosion,
then it acted like a very small orifice which slowed down the pressure buildup.
Also many gauges will have a restriction orifice to reduce pulsation on the gauge.

 

[tfuller]

Don't know if it would account for the pressure increase you are seeing, but got to ask... Is the hot water heater cycling after the well cuts off and adding pressure into the system?

To add does your water heater have a thermal expansion tank and also have you tested that you pressure relief valve is working on the tank.

 

[ponytug]

Like @LouNY, I would bet on a corroded or partially blocked portion of your system.

On my water system, the piping to the pressure switch, and the internals of the switch, are prone to clogging and will produce a pressure overshoot, but that won't explain the gradual pressure rise after the pump cuts out. Since your pressure gauges keep rising, I would bet on the gauges either having crud in them, or in the piping that connects them to the system. Most gauges have brass internal tubing which does corrode, and any gauge can get filled with sand or hard water deposits.

High system pressures are hard on everything, (pipes, valves, gauges, tanks) so it is worth getting after the problem in my opinion.

All the best,

Peter

 

[wawajake]

I think the crud in the tees to gauges is quite possible ( high iron content) I wondered if that could cause high....will research a few suggestions here over next few days.

 

[ponytug]

You might want to flush the tees and then put in new gauges and a new pressure switch, and while I was at it, I would probably replace the 3/8" piping to the pressure switch and gauge. (In brass or PVC) The fact that the pressure rises after the pump kicks off probably means that your pressure is that high, which may mean that you have a pressure switch issue as well.

One question; it looks like you have copper piping plumbed into galvanized. I don't see any galvanic isolation in the photo. If you don't have isolation, I would put in 3-6" of PVC between the copper and the galvanized pipe, otherwise, your copper pipe is going to be accelerating the corrosion and rusting in the galvanized fittings.

All the best,

Peter

 

[bcp]

I've had similar behavior when the tiny pipe leading to the pressure switch was plugged with rust. Our water dissolves galvanizing quickly. I replaced all the little pipes and fittings in the system with brass.

Bruce

 

[brokeasajoke]

I've had similar behavior when the tiny pipe leading to the pressure switch was plugged with rust. Our water dissolves galvanizing quickly. I replaced all the little pipes and fittings in the system with brass.

Bruce

Seen this before. Gauge and pressure switch pipe clogged.

 

[wawajake]

Thanks for all the advice, I decided to call local plumber, but now with advice here at TBN I am less likely to be led astray by any mischievous tradesman. At minimum I will have focus on him replace small piping with brass to new gauge and pressure switch and I have a new spare pressure switch already. Hopefully they return my voicemail this week with an appointment. I am going to see if I can find a pressure gauge tool that screws on to hosebib to give me a accurate read to calm my nerves in future. Meanwhile everytime I walk by pressure gauge in mechanical room and see it at 75 or 80 psi , I turn laundry tap on to relieve some pressure. ( but I swear it doesn't seem like 80 psi in faucets)

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

So I have been worried my water pressure is too high in my house. If I can trust the pressure gauges ( one at entrance to 30 gal pressure tank and one near carbon and string filter setup) when well shuts off with the 20 /40 pressure switch at 40 psi, the well pump clearly can be heard to shut off, but the pressure gauges continue to rise and even out around 80 psi ( if I can trust the gauges) I got a new gould 240 volt submersible well pump 2 years ago that replaced a 20 yr old one, my well is 30 ft deep spring) I did try adjusting the two nuts on the pressure switch and now have it turning well pump on at around 15 psi , if I can trust gauges , and well pump shuts off at 40 psi, but pressure continues to rise to at least 75 psi. What do the well experts here think is going on ???

I would start by replacing the gauge.... costs less than $10 normally for the part and easy to do... the newer gauges have short life spans.... When i adjust pressures whether 20/40 or 30/50 I always just replace the gauge before even trying to adjust the 2 screws as this keeps at bay lots of aggravation many times... I often find no problems at all other than gauge has crapped out.... I would bet a steak dinner (or gallon of gas) that if you are seeing an 80 psi reading the gauge is toast.

 

[3Ts]

You can make one easily enough. Just use a hose bib to NPT adapter and a bushing with the gauge screwed into it.