3Ts
Elite Member
I've seen high reading pressures from corroded gauges and pressure switch. Just like other posts, I'd start by replacing both and I'd bet the problem will be solved.
Well pressure Switch question
- Thread starter wawajake
- Start date
- Views: 8168
Pressure is pressure however if you have restricted flow pressure will still read without issue. I have replaced two 4” well pumps one from lightning strike and another from bad foot valve. Rule of thumb when you replace pump you change pressure switch. Relay contacts wear over time pressure can change. I run at 20/50 switch however I have large bladder tank to handle drop. Also bladder tanks go bad either rust or bladder failure. You can tell real quick on air input valve. If you press the center of the valve and water leaks the tank needs replaced. Ask your plumber these questions while he is there. I had to learn the hard way myself. I deal with fluid pressure every day in the liquid paint business. Pressure is pressure unless line is 100% plugged. Flow is completely different on restricted line pressure is constant. Hope you get your answers.
Valveman
Platinum Member
If you are sure the pressure switch points open up at 40 PSI and/or you turn off the breaker to make sure the pump shuts off, the only way pressure can climb is if water is coming from somewhere. Many times I have found a buried pressure tank at the well, which pressures up to 100 when the pump is running, only to dump into the above ground tank after the pump shuts off, making the pressure increase way above the 40 PSI shut off point. Might also check the air charge in the visible pressure tank, as the bladder could be bad.
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
Given all this, have you considered replacing the gauge at the cross fitting at the pressure tank and pump switch. First thing I'd do is pick up a new gauge, remove the old one, be sure the nipple or fitting where it screws in is clean and clear, and install being sure not to obstruct the opening with teflon tape or pipe dope.
Seems strange to me that two gauges both read high. Seems double strange that the pressure doesn't feel like 80 PSI -- which you'd think would be pretty noticeable. Sounds like you'll be replacing some of those fittings and the gauge anyway. Why not check things out with a new one now?
We all love a good mystery so please keep us posted.
Popgadget
Elite Member
My process would be to first verify that the points in the switch are actually opening and not welded shut.
Then I would verify the pressure with a known gauge, either by replacing one of the existing ones, or at a hose bib.
If a problem really exists, the first thing I would look at is the 1/4” nipple that mounts the switch, and the inlet to the switch itself. Then spiral outward from there.
As far as having two gauges, I’m reminded of the old proverb that a man with two watches never knows what time it is.
Then I would verify the pressure with a known gauge, either by replacing one of the existing ones, or at a hose bib.
If a problem really exists, the first thing I would look at is the 1/4” nipple that mounts the switch, and the inlet to the switch itself. Then spiral outward from there.
As far as having two gauges, I’m reminded of the old proverb that a man with two watches never knows what time it is.
OP
wawajake
Veteran Member
Plumbers are here right now, they replaced gauge at tank, .....it still went high pressure, ....so tested with plumbers tool gauge at hise bib and it is a true 80 psi, not good, ....feels pressure switch could be not working right, so replacing that now......fittings were fairly clean fo both . .....will let uou know outcome.
Valveman
Platinum Member
Pretty easy to see if the points in the pressure switch open up or not. If they are open, the pump should be off, but I would verify with an amp meter.
ponytug
Super Member
Progress!
A bad pressure switch alone would not account for the slow pressure rise that you are seeing; the pump is either on or off. Something else is going on, beyond a possibly bad pressure switch.
All the best,
Peter
A bad pressure switch alone would not account for the slow pressure rise that you are seeing; the pump is either on or off. Something else is going on, beyond a possibly bad pressure switch.
All the best,
Peter
OP
wawajake
Veteran Member
Mystery SOLVED !!! .....although you can't see it in my first picture yesterday ( hidden under old pressure switch) there was a small ball valve that the original house owner put in so he could easily isolate the pressure switch and the tee ed off gauge. That ball valve was severely constricted. So as can be seen by the pic attached , My plumber removed that little ball valve, and replaced with straight nipple to new pressure switch and repositioned new gauge over to the 1 in feed tee. . So now I have a new 30/ 50 psi switch, a new gauge and no feedback pressure. Well turns on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi and does not gradually increase further anymore. He did test the switch with amp meter and also emptied pressure tank and tested its psi at its shraeder valve ( no water pissed out at shraeder) It is 10 psi low so when I get chance I will get compressor and get it up to 28 psi like plumber suggested. Thanks everyone ! I think my urging my plumber about suggestions I got here helped us keep bill at only $600. And now I can do it on my own if ever again.
ponytug
Super Member
I'm glad to see it all fixed!
All the best, Peter
All the best, Peter
Valveman
Platinum Member
Even without the ball valve to the pressure switch the nipple itself could clog. This happens all the time. You need a 75 PSI relief valve in place of boiler drain or on a 3/4 tee with the boiler drain. The relief should have been popping off long before your tank pressured up to really high pressure. I have seen the bottom blow off tanks like that, making it a rocket and going through the roof, taking some of the plumbing with it. Pressure relief valves are important.
Valveman
Platinum Member
Here is a picture of a cinder block well house where that happened. However, in this case the tank went sideways instead of through the roof. You can see the tank floating in the lake at the very top of the picture. The explosion woke me up from a room about a 1/2 mile away.
OP
wawajake
Veteran Member
The pressure tank I referred to and that is in pics is my well pressure tank, not a boiler pressure tank. But thanks for headsup......all is good.
Valveman
Platinum Member
I know exactly what kind of tank you have. I have installed a few thousand of them and had a few wiz by my head when they blow up, like in the picture above. All is not good until you install a 75 PSI relief valve.
OP
wawajake
Veteran Member
Sorry you confused me when you reffered to boiler twice in your post. But it is all good. I am confident my plumber checked for all applicable pressure tank safe operation needs. Thanks for headsup.
Valveman
Platinum Member
Hope your plumber has good insurance. Have a nice day!
Egon
Epic Contributor
Using the description “boiler drain” is generic for the type/design of the valve. They are usually a globe type valve so a specified drain value can be maintained.
Any pressure tank should have a preset pressure relief valve set at recommended pressure by vessel manufacturer.
Any pressure tank should have a preset pressure relief valve set at recommended pressure by vessel manufacturer.
Valveman
Platinum Member
Thanks Egon. I never thought about my use of the word boiler drain instead of faucet would make someone think I was talking about a boiler tank. As you said any pressure tank should have a preset pressure relief valve for safety. I don't understand why someone wouldn't want a 10 dollar pressure relief valve to save their butt? It would have also made it much easier to diagnose the clogged nipple to the pressure switch because the pressure relief should have been popping off. I just assumed there was a pressure relief and started looking for other possible problems.
Egon
Epic Contributor
N
No problems.
ponytug
Super Member
I think as long as the system has a pressure relief in it somewhere, you are in good hands. Most water heater tanks have a temperature/pressure relief on them. It is required for modern code compliance.
Centrifugal water pumps are not able to pump to arbitrary pressures; they all because increasingly less efficient as the pressure increases, and can work safely against a closed valve, though it isn't advisable.
I think that it is important to distinguish between low pressure water pressure tanks (up to 80psi or so) and high pressure and high temperature boiler tanks, e.g. for steam use. A steam tank contains many volumes of steam, and the expansion of a steam via a leak can do considerable damage.
Boiler explosion - Wikipedia
Water Tank Repair Guide
Water pressure tank replacement - diagnosis, costs, advice. A case study reviews loss of water pressure, diagnosis of the cause of loss of well water pressure, and repair of the problem, followed by a review of the costs involved. How to diagnose water pump and pressure tank problems. - private...
inspectapedia.com
Water tank explosion....yes, a water tank
https://www.yourcentralvalley.com/news/local-news/surveillance-camera-captures-deadly-water-tank-explosion-in-lemoore/ This happened in my area. I am very familiar with Lemoore and its water system because twice I was at firms that served as the contract City Engineer and I have designed some...
www.eng-tips.com
I would not believe everything that you read on the internet, including this...
All the best,
Peter
