I think I screwed up - Tires R1 vs R4

[crowbar032]

I bought a new 5065E with a 553 loader and got the R4 tires on it. I think I would like the R1's better after using it. I was pulling some logs over the weekend and it would just spin and dig a hole going up hills. As a disclaimer, I don't have weights yet. I'm going to add 4 107lb weights to each side (856 total) to see if this helps remedy the issue. I have a hay field to plow after I add weights and I'll find out then how the additional weight helps with traction. I should have listened to my gut and got the R1's to start with, but I though the R4's would be better/easier on the front end for loader work. Live and learn, I guess.

Guess I should start looking to see if anyone wants to trade rims and tires as I'm sure I can't afford to buy new rims and tires.

 

[cartod]

I wouldn't think you'd have trouble trading since the R1's are cheaper. Ask the dealer.

 

[B58Hustler]

In addition to adding the weight (which will help a lot) also drop your air pressure in the rears to a 12-18 lb range. (Start high and work down until you feel the "pull").

However you are right, the R1s would have been a better choice, both for traction and self-cleaning in mud. But maybe these changes will allow you get some more work done in the mean time.

 

[LD1]

Call your dealer and see what they will do for you. As mentioned, R1's are a good bit cheaper, so you may not be out of pocket any.

But I can see your problem. If you have the loader on, and no weight out back, there is very little weight over the rear tires where most of the traction comes from. So even r1's might dissapoint you without weight and with the loader on.

Get the tires filled and add your weights would make a HUGE difference. But if you go R1's, still get them filled and add the weights and you will be even that much better.

Bout the only benefit to the R4's is as you mention, FEL work, and if you plan on logging alot, the R4's are a little tougher. But for pulling and field work, you cant beat the R1's.

 

[Gator6x4]

Two wheel drive or four wheel? If two wheel did your try the differential lock? If four wheel did you engage four wheel drive. Years ago I used to pull logs up a rather steep incline with a Ford 8N without a problem. How steep is the hill, and how were you trying to pull the logs? I used a log grab hooked to the3 point draw bar and would put a slight uplift on the three point and pull away, no problem. Now I don't think I could have pulled much of a log if it was hooked to a twenty five chain stretched out behind the tractor.

 

[crowbar032]

Two wheel drive or four wheel? If two wheel did your try the differential lock? If four wheel did you engage four wheel drive. Years ago I used to pull logs up a rather steep incline with a Ford 8N without a problem. How steep is the hill, and how were you trying to pull the logs? I used a log grab hooked to the3 point draw bar and would put a slight uplift on the three point and pull away, no problem. Now I don't think I could have pulled much of a log if it was hooked to a twenty five chain stretched out behind the tractor.

It is a 4x4 and I used the differential lock too. The tractor jumped straight up and down while spinning the tires. I'd guess the hills to be in the 40+ ish degree range. I was probably not pulling in a logger approved manner. I wrapped the chain around the logs and attached them to the tractor drawbar using a clevis. The chain was kept short so the logs were less than 5 feet behind the tractor but still plowed into the dirt. I may have done better if I had a three point hitch drawbar to lift like you did.

Maybe I just need to adjust my overall expectations. I was trying to pull 2 12 foot and 1 14 foot log and each were about 19 inches diameter.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Were you pulling logs with the loader or the drawbar?

EDIT: whoops. You answered that.

You don't know anything about your tires until you have properly ballasted your tractor. If you don't have a ballast box, your loader is taking a lot of weight off the rear tires. Get a ballast box, and optionally load the tires. Try taking off the loader as a test and see if things improve.

 

[LD1]

Maybe I just need to adjust my overall expectations. I was trying to pull 2 12 foot and 1 14 foot log and each were about 19 inches diameter.

You certainly should have been able to pull that. Heck, I think my kubota would near pull that.

38 total feet of 19" logs is only ~75 cu ft by my calculations. Thats only ~3300-3400lbs for average hardwood. Your tractor should have done that easy.

Edit: Allthough 40 degrees uphill, maybe not

 

[General Lee]

If you take the loader off, just be careful making sure the front end stays on the ground while trying to pull up hill.

 

[Gator6x4]

It is a 4x4 and I used the differential lock too. The tractor jumped straight up and down while spinning the tires. I'd guess the hills to be in the 40+ ish degree range. I was probably not pulling in a logger approved manner. I wrapped the chain around the logs and attached them to the tractor drawbar using a clevis. The chain was kept short so the logs were less than 5 feet behind the tractor but still plowed into the dirt. I may have done better if I had a three point hitch drawbar to lift like you did.

Maybe I just need to adjust my overall expectations. I was trying to pull 2 12 foot and 1 14 foot log and each were about 19 inches diameter.

I think AG tires would have given the same or worse results. You may have been able to handle the 2-12 foot without a problem. Most people that pull logs with a tractor use a device like this:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200335943_200335943 . The cost is not that great.

 

[DieselnHooters]

Bout the only benefit to the R4's is as you mention, FEL work, and if you plan on logging alot, the R4's are a little tougher. But for pulling and field work, you cant beat the R1's.

right you are

R4s are also more stable in the woods, some say they wont rut your lawn quite as bad but with that size tractor its a non-issue as I doubt you had mowing your yard in mind when you bought it lol

 

[PBettis]

I personally would rather have the R4's. They are the best all around general purpose tire. Sounds like you maybe needed to keep the logs from plowing and maybe some ballast. Consider logging equipment tires..like a skidder. Seems they run more of an R4 design for a balance of flotation and weight. Maybe to keep from digging ditches. Plus they get the log ends high and only leave the ends to skid. Less damage to the log and less friction. I have the R4's on my JD 110 TLB and I like them. Sure they spin every now and then but that keeps it fun and interesting! My dad just recently ordered a 5085M with a FEL and he's owned and operated more equipment than you could imagine. He specifically requested the R4's. Not saying they're the best because we all know there's a different tool for every job but just saying we really like them! Don't give up on them too soon! I think you made an educated decision about the FEL work needing R4's. Logs are just a pain for any machine or any tire! Good luck and most importantly be safe!! Somewhere in all that...have fun!

 

[s219]

Load the tires, and get the front of the logs off the ground. I skid large logs with my little B2920 with loaded R4 tires no problem.

Are you sure it's a 40 degree slope? That is almost 100% grade, and darn dangerous to be on with a tractor.

 

[Grateful11]

It is a 4x4 and I used the differential lock too. The tractor jumped straight up and down while spinning the tires. I'd guess the hills to be in the 40+ ish degree range. I was probably not pulling in a logger approved manner. I wrapped the chain around the logs and attached them to the tractor drawbar using a clevis. The chain was kept short so the logs were less than 5 feet behind the tractor but still plowed into the dirt. I may have done better if I had a three point hitch drawbar to lift like you did.

Maybe I just need to adjust my overall expectations. I was trying to pull 2 12 foot and 1 14 foot log and each were about 19 inches diameter.

The problem I see with using a 3 point hitch drawbar is if you can easily be pulling above center of the rear axle making it easier to flip backwards.

 

[s219]

The problem I see with using a 3 point hitch drawbar is if you can easily be pulling above center of the rear axle making it easier to flip backwards.

That is definitely a concern. It can be alleviated by running a second safety chain from the choker to the drawbar. That way you use the 3-pt to lift the butt of the log, but the safety chain to the drawbar handles the forward pull and alleviates any "wheelie" types of loads about the axle.

 

[abeal]

I don't think I'll ever get R4 tires again. They're pretty much good for nothing. A lot like those over/under-double barrel rifle/shotguns. They make terrible rifles and terrible shotguns. There are a few remote cases where they are a good call but few and far between. Like R4s for me. It will be ags or turfs from now on - as it has been since my first set of R4s.

 

[s219]

Good for nothing? They are about the best tire choice for loader work, which is why backhoes and other construction equipment comes with variations of that type of tire.

If your just considering turf-friendliness and farm-traction, then the R4s could be considered a mediocre compromise. But there are many other factors to consider.

 

[Zebrafive]

I'd check your owners manual or with your dealer before adding that many rear wheel weights. I have a 6415 and maximum rear weights is 3 per side.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I don't think I'll ever get R4 tires again. They're pretty much good for nothing. A lot like those over/under-double barrel rifle/shotguns. They make terrible rifles and terrible shotguns. There are a few remote cases where they are a good call but few and far between. Like R4s for me. It will be ags or turfs from now on - as it has been since my first set of R4s.

There are ample threads here on TBN about the pros and cons of each of the three major tread types. No need to rehash these arguments here. Suffice it to say that each tread type has strengths and weaknesses. It'd be a mistake to characterize R4's as just a poor mash-up of Ag or Turf tires, though. They're good at what they're good at--period.

 

[kuboman]

Weighted up and run a little soft R4's work alright. The advantage of r4's is on turf. If you spin you only scuff the grass. R1's are great for traction but just a partial revolution and you have a hole.
R4's of course will stand a lot of abuse.