My theory on Low Ballers

   / My theory on Low Ballers #131  
Some interesting views for sure.

Interesting the ones that indicate a seller should value drive time/transportation. When was last time that worked at HD or TS? I know if I go to the HD 2 hours from me, they charge same as the the local folk.

I know I don't set a value on anything I sell by where the buyer comes from. When I'm buying, I read the ad and ask myself if it is worth the asking price to me plus my time/expense to get it. That said, a couple years ago, I did buy a tractor off CL about an hour from me and paid the asking price to include delivery. Saved me borrowing a trailer.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet



I guess antique tractor people are just more kind / considerate than the general tractor owner crowd, judging by your post.

I know if I'm sellign something to a guy who's driving from out of state, I deffinately make some considerations for them, vs the guy fromt he end of my street.
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #132  
Soundguy said:
I guess antique tractor people are just more kind / considerate than the general tractor owner crowd, judging by your post.

I know if I'm sellign something to a guy who's driving from out of state, I deffinately make some considerations for them, vs the guy fromt he end of my street.

Not too sure what you are judging. It's one thing to GIVE consideration, quite another to EXPECT it. My comment reflected on the few post here that expected it.
I recently sold a number of items on CL. I "think" I set a fair price. On one item, the buyer made an offer and I accepted, on another the buyer made an offer and cited driving an hour. Again I accepted, but would have without the driving reason as it was a reasonable, not lowball offer.

David

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #133  
I guess antique tractor people are just more kind / considerate than the general tractor owner crowd, judging by your post.
I know if I'm sellign something to a guy who's driving from out of state, I deffinately make some considerations for them, vs the guy fromt he end of my street.
I had a old Oliver tractor cab (which came with the new house/barn) listed for $600, I had a guy drive ~5 hours in Jan to get it and (with that in mind) we settled on $475 for it. If it had been someone local, I would have pushed a little more to get another $50 or so out of him.

Aaron Z
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #134  
if i'm driving to go get something I am buying and have agreed on a price with the seller.

i EXPECT it to be that price when i get there.. not higher.

I also EXPECT it to be there and not sold out from under me during my 3 state drive.

those are reasonable EXPECTATIONS. on the buyers part. IE.. that it is available to be sold as agreed upon.. that you should meet me at our agreed upon time and palce.. and that the item is at the price we agreed upon.

raising the price after the fact is sour grapes IMHO, and bad form. Knowing a guy may have driven a state or two to get an item you are selling for 300$ agreed on.. and during that time waiting for the seller you are getting alot more calls and offers, leading you to believe you are selling to cheap. thus you try to extort the buyer from out of state another 50$, knowing that he's more or less stuck with either going home 'empty' or paying the 'mean' fee you are charging.

I EXPECT that to NOT happen.

reading this sub.. i see evidence that there are some sellers here that might think that kind of behavior is acceptable.

Not too sure what you are judging. It's one thing to GIVE consideration, quite another to EXPECT it. My comment reflected on the few post here that expected it.
I recently sold a number of items on CL. I "think" I set a fair price. On one item, the buyer made an offer and I accepted, on another the buyer made an offer and cited driving an hour. Again I accepted, but would have without the driving reason as it was a reasonable, not lowball offer.

David

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers
  • Thread Starter
#135  
I found this on another site and has some great info for all of us - selling and buying on Craigslist. THESE ARE NOT MY NOTES, I'm just passing them on.

1. Be direct and to the point in your ad. You will attract more like minded people.

2. Search listings for similar items that are priced competitively. If your item doesn't receive any responses in the first 72 hours, either there is something wrong with your ad, or the price is too high.

3. Designate a public place in your ad to do the transaction. I like the mall where there are others around, security, and cameras. People don't feel comfortable meeting in your basement unless you are selling a 500 gallon fish tank or a couch set. When selling a high dollar item, I like meeting at a bank.

4. I always start every ad by stating, "if you see this ad, the item is available". I've noticed this eliminates all those who email me asking if the item is available.

5. Due to all the spam these days, either put your phone number or request that interested buyers leave a contact number in their email. I don't respond to emails where the person didn't follow the simple steps needed to get in touch with me. Serious buyers talk on the phone. Tire kickers text and email. I've noticed that many people who email or text me saying they are going to show up at a specific place don't, while the majority of those who I speak to on the phone do come.

7. There is nothing worse than wasting your whole day for no shows. I always ask that the buyer contacts me by phone when they leave their house. I coordinate to leave mine at the same time. If I don't get voice confirmation, I don't leave my house. 99% of the time, they will show up.

8. You will get lots of offers. Most of the time they will be from low ballers who are trying to turn a profit. Know the value of what you have. If you are offered $100 for an iPhone and you could sell it for $300 on eBay, politely refuse. Now days, a completed item search on eBay will yield the average price on almost any item for in the last 30 days.

9. I often put "price is firm" in my ad. I calculate what the item sells for on ebay and subtract 15% for eBay and PayPal fees. This is the fixed price. Not a penney less because I know what i can get later. This reduces 90% of the low ball offers I used to receive. Now, when I list something for $120, I'll get an offer for $100, not $60 like the old days.

10. Use common sense. This one is a no brainer. Use courtesy in your emails. I can tell from the first email I exchange with a potential buyer on how serious they are, their educational background, and their manners. This will go a long way.

I used to get an average of 10 emails per item I advertised. 8 would ask questions that would be eliminated if I had implemented the above 10 rules, 2 made plans to come, one wouldn't show up, and one would. I now get 2-3 emails and when one buyer says they are coming and I get voice confirmation, 9 times out of 10, they will show up.

If buyers and sellers followed the above rules, everyone would save much valued time, resources, and energy.
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #136  
Soundguy said:
if i'm driving to go get something I am buying and have agreed on a price with the seller.

i EXPECT it to be that price when i get there.. not higher.

I also EXPECT it to be there and not sold out from under me during my 3 state drive.

those are reasonable EXPECTATIONS. on the buyers part. IE.. that it is available to be sold as agreed upon.. that you should meet me at our agreed upon time and palce.. and that the item is at the price we agreed upon.

raising the price after the fact is sour grapes IMHO, and bad form. Knowing a guy may have driven a state or two to get an item you are selling for 300$ agreed on.. and during that time waiting for the seller you are getting alot more calls and offers, leading you to believe you are selling to cheap. thus you try to extort the buyer from out of state another 50$, knowing that he's more or less stuck with either going home 'empty' or paying the 'mean' fee you are charging.

I EXPECT that to NOT happen.

reading this sub.. i see evidence that there are some sellers here that might think that kind of behavior is acceptable.

Totally agree. If I were to make a mistake in price, I surely wouldn't ask for more when a buyer showed up :( likely I'd cancel the ad, wait a spell and relist with the correct price, if someone called on the original, first I'd explain, but probably honor the original price.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #137  
If you change your position based on a firm representation from the other side of the transaction, it is reasonable to expect the party on the other side of the transaction to live up to the deal.

For example, if the seller says that he will hold the item for you at an agreed price while you drive 200 miles, it is reasonable to expect that he will not sell to someone else before you arrive at the allotted time.

On the other hand, if the buyer says he will pay an agreed price for the item after he drives 200 miles, and the seller tells other prospective buyers the item is already committed, it is reasonable for the seller to expect the buyer to pay the agreed price and not try to retrade the deal when he gets there.

A simple solution is for the seller of a $600 item to say to the buyer, "the first 6 C-notes win." In other words, whoever shows up first with cash in hand gets it. The buyer runs the risk that someone else may show up earlier with the cash, and can decide if he wants to drive 200 miles. As a seller I would say, give me your cellphone number and I'll call you if a cash buyer shows up while you are driving.
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #138  
A simple solution is for the seller of a $600 item to say to the buyer, "the first 6 C-notes win." In other words, whoever shows up first with cash in hand gets it. The buyer runs the risk that someone else may show up earlier with the cash, and can decide if he wants to drive 200 miles. As a seller I would say, give me your cellphone number and I'll call you if a cash buyer shows up while you are driving.



i avoid those adds.

I can't drive xx distance to find someone beat me there 5 minutes .. if the selelr won't commit to sell to me.. i won't buy.
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #139  
A simple solution is for the seller of a $600 item to say to the buyer, "the first 6 C-notes win." In other words, whoever shows up first with cash in hand gets it. The buyer runs the risk that someone else may show up earlier with the cash, and can decide if he wants to drive 200 miles. As a seller I would say, give me your cellphone number and I'll call you if a cash buyer shows up while you are driving.
i avoid those adds.
I can't drive xx distance to find someone beat me there 5 minutes .. if the selelr won't commit to sell to me.. i won't buy.
I agree. I am investing my gas and time into an item that may or may not be as described. If you wont hold it for the (for example) 6 hours that it takes me to drive to your location when I have arranged it and called to let you know that I am on the way, I will not take the risk.
Not worth it to me to get 5+ hours into a 6 hour trip only to be told that someone else showed up and bought it.

Aaron Z
 
   / My theory on Low Ballers #140  
I've got different ways of dealing with low ball offers. What a lot of posters on this subject seem to have forgottem is that if you have advertised an item with a specific price, that is an offer to sell, When a prospective purchaser makes a counter offer that means your original offering price is no longer on the table.

Depending upon the prospective buyers attitude and offer I do one of four things. First, I may hold firm on my asking price. Second, I accept the counter offer (rarely happens). Third, I counter with a slightly lower asking price, assuming we'll meet in the middle. Fourth, if the offer is ridiculously low and/or their attitude hits me wrong, then I will raise my adking price by 10-25%. Don't cry foul on that one, they already rejected my original offer to sell, and there is no rule that in negotiations that a seller always has to go down in price.

However the one that always got me (and no one has mentioned yet) was the idiot who will stand there and negotiate a lower price, then say let me think about it and I'll let you know. I always tell them that there's nothing to think about, you've set a price you're willing to pay, and if you walk away now the agreement is out the window. Sometimes they buy, sometimes they walk but at that point I've already decided I don't care if I sell to them or not. I've sold at fleamarkets, gun shows and CL for several years and there are a lot more d'heads out there like that than you would imagine.

Ken
 
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