0w30 vs 5w20

   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #41  
That is ONLY correct about dino oils. And if you do any reading on oils (and even "bob"), The VI modifiers are NOT the first things that wear out. You should be changing your oil LONG before the VI additives cause you the problems.

BUT....on synthetic oils like I run, they do NOT use a thinner base oil. The base oil is the SECOND number. So, a 0w30 syn is a 30 base oil and NO Viscosity modifiers. And BTW, I dont think I have ever even seen a 0w30 dino oil.

But either way, I stand by my "lower first # the better" statement. Because your and darkblack's statements about VI modifiers is NOT true with syn oil. And with dino oil, you should be changing LONG before the VI modifiers wear out. IF you run a dino oil and the viscosity modifiers wear out, that is the least of your problems.

Then your first blanket statement/opinion is based on two unstated presumptions: 1) most of the members are weekend warriors who 2) only use synthetic oils. You wouldn't have gotten any pushback from me if your statement had been properly qualified with a statement of your presumptions, even though I doubt most members actually use full synthetics.

Not trying to stir up trouble and I am certainly not a lubrication expert, just trying to keep the information accurate for those who can't read your mind.
 
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   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #42  
Then your first blanket statement/opinion is based on two unstated presumptions: 1) most of the members are weekend warriors who 2) only use synthetic oils. You wouldn't have gotten any pushback from me if your statement had been properly qualified with a statement of your presumptions, even though I doubt most members actually use full synthetics.

Not trying to stir up trouble and I am certainly not a lubrication expert, just trying to keep the information accurate for those who can't read your mind.

Since the thread was started about 0w30 and 5w20 oils, and started by soundguy that has 15 zillion tractors, I think it is fair to automatically assume we are talking about weekend-warrior type vehicles and NOT engines that run 24/7.

As to the syn vs dino, yea, maybe I should have clarified. I have been using syn oils now for soooo long:laughing: But the "presumptions" can go both ways. If I am at fault for not clarifying synthetic oils, then YOU are at fault for not clarifying that you were talking about dino oils:confused3:

But either way, even with dino oils, I still believe the lower the number the better. Because any sane person changes his oil long before the viscosity modifiers wear out as I already mentioned. And if you are trying to do extended 10k or 15k drain intervals, you most certainly should be using a synthetic and not a dino oil.
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Are you saying you have been on the site and find the information generally erroneous? If so, what are your sources? I'm open to being educated if you have any recommendations. Or, was your post just for LD1's amusement..
there have been discussions on her int he past and other tractor sites. BOTG is generally ok.. but now and then people do bring up good counter points.

kind of like tractordata.com it's 'generally' ok info.. but I wouldn't write any of it in stone. too many little issues to call it 100% accurate. etc.

soundguy
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #44  
Actually, PS4 is a 2W50, that is what Polaris claims it to be anyway.

Polaris did use 0W-40 Synthetic oil in their off-roads vehicles for many years. It was only about 2010 that PS4 2W-50 came out and now they have PS4 PLUS. Btw - Polaris does not make oil, the bid that out. A company called Lubetech, a contract oil suppler who specializes in providing oil with OEM brand name on the bottle. My nephew works for a company that is a major Polaris supplier of hard parts (engine related).
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #45  
Come on guys. You know there are three things that can not be disccussed, motor oil, religion and politics.
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #46  
Ok. I'll throw my two cents in the pot. I like talking motor oil. Everyone has their own point of view and honestly ANY modern oil made by ANY major supplier will protect your engine (not an engine in an industrial application) for the manufacturer recommended interval. I know, if we are talking cars, some models require different viscosities and some if those arent available in conventional oil. What we argue is how well it protects. Does it cover extreme situations?

Personally I use Castrol 5W50 in all my vehicles and tractors. Works well. I change it when recommended. No lubrication failures to report. I could go cheaper. Choose not to.

Chuck
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #47  
Polaris did use 0W-40 Synthetic oil in their off-roads vehicles for many years. It was only about 2010 that PS4 2W-50 came out and now they have PS4 PLUS. Btw - Polaris does not make oil, the bid that out. A company called Lubetech, a contract oil suppler who specializes in providing oil with OEM brand name on the bottle. My nephew works for a company that is a major Polaris supplier of hard parts (engine related).




Nice to know, wont pay their prices for the oil change kits. Run syn 0w40.

Finding a demand drive alternative is hard though.
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #48  
Thing is, I usually agree with what LD1 says about oil and don't post if he has because it would just be duplication from someone that is not an expert on lubrication. Although, it should be called lubrication and cooling, especially with full synthetics because full synthetics serve both functions.

My oil education began in 1985 with full thermal breakdown of Penzoil 10w30 motor oil in a sedan. Stuff happens, so Mobil 1 became my oil of choice after that.
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #49  
Thing is, I usually agree with what LD1 says about oil and don't post if he has because it would just be duplication from someone that is not an expert on lubrication. Although, it should be called lubrication and cooling, especially with full synthetics because full synthetics serve both functions.

My oil education began in 1985 with full thermal breakdown of Penzoil 10w30 motor oil in a sedan. Stuff happens, so Mobil 1 became my oil of choice after that.

Are you saying you dont agree with me this time????

I think we agree??? But we were talking about two different things and it just happend into a mis-understanding I think.

I was talking synthetics from the beginning. I was not even aware of any commonly avaliable 0w30 dino oils:confused3: What you say about dinos is correct that they do indeed use a lower viscosity base oil. I do not disagree with that. But, as I said, the problem with the VM's is a moot point if oil changes are done correctly and in a timely manner.

Synthetic oils are a totally different animal. And what I was refering to in my comments. They START with the heavier base oil and use NO viscosity modifiers. A 10w30 dino is a 10 weight oil with modifiers to make it act like a heavier oil when warm. BUT....a 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 synthetic oil IS a 30 weight BASE oil. THAT is a good thing. Therefore at operating temp with the above mentioned oils, They will perform the SAME, BUT...the lower number is MUCH better @ start-up where most the engine wear occurs.

If you ran the engine NON stop....24/7....then a single weight oil is all that is needed. And that engine would last MANY more hours than one that sees frequent starts and stops.

PS. I am not an oil expert either. I know just enough to be dangerous.
 
   / 0w30 vs 5w20 #50  
I have a question. I once built high performance engines but oil at the time was not what it is today by any sense of the imagination and these engines used straight weight only so my expertise as far as oils is concerned is limited. My question has to do with "oil tack". There is a constant oil film on mechanically oil soaked engine parts. This film goes a long way in protecting the engine at initial start up. My question is: Do the lower weight oils provide the same "film" protection as the old 10-30,10-40 standards? Or does their inherent thinness create a faster dissipation of this film? It is my understanding that while lower weight oils can be run better on closer tolerance built motors, their main thrust was reduced friction for car makers to achieve better gas mileage. Makes me wonder if we are robbing Peter to pay Paul
 

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