0w30 vs 5w20

[Soundguy]

i'm running 5w40 in my diesels...

 

[LD1]

If you are in a really hot area where there is no benefit to the lower first number, my vote would be to use the higher first number.

Engines like to operate above 200 degrees oil temp. Even in WARM climates, those 60 and 70 degree mornings are "cold" to your engine.

 

[dmccarty]

I have been running 5w40 or 0w40 oils in my trucks and tractors for years with no problems. I do UOA every change as well. I don't need to do the UOA ever change but I kinda like to look at the oil report.

It does get cold enough in my area to hook up the truck's engine block heater. That heater pulls some power, 1,500 watts for at LEAST three hours, to warm the oil. That is 4,500 watts or 4.5 KWH. 4.5 KWH at 10 cents a KWH is 45 cents to warm up the truck. Which adds up to at least $9 to warm up the truck for a month. Say four months of warming is a minimum of $36. $36 is close to what I have to pay for 0w40/5w40 oil compared to 15w40 oil. With the 0w40 or 5w40 oils I don't have to use the engine block heater which saves time and money. Though I do miss having the truck cab warm up quicker in the morning. :laughing: I have seen a 2-3% increase in MPG as well which is not a big savings but it is something. With my driving, I can run the oil about 2.5 times over the recommended oil change mileage. UOA says to change out the oil at around the 2.5x mark. The UOA says my engine is wearing at very low levels compared to other engines of the same type.

Later,
Dan

 

[Gator6x4]

I have been running 5w40 or 0w40 oils in my trucks and tractors for years with no problems. I do UOA every change as well. I don't need to do the UOA ever change but I kinda like to look at the oil report.

It does get cold enough in my area to hook up the truck's engine block heater. That heater pulls some power, 1,500 watts for at LEAST three hours, to warm the oil. That is 4,500 watts or 4.5 KWH. 4.5 KWH at 10 cents a KWH is 45 cents to warm up the truck. Which adds up to at least $9 to warm up the truck for a month. Say four months of warming is a minimum of $36. $36 is close to what I have to pay for 0w40/5w40 oil compared to 15w40 oil. With the 0w40 or 5w40 oils I don't have to use the engine block heater which saves time and money. Though I do miss having the truck cab warm up quicker in the morning. :laughing: I have seen a 2-3% increase in MPG as well which is not a big savings but it is something. With my driving, I can run the oil about 2.5 times over the recommended oil change mileage. UOA says to change out the oil at around the 2.5x mark. The UOA says my engine is wearing at very low levels compared to other engines of the same type.

Later,
Dan

And the answer to having a warm vehicle each and every morning can be found here: How to Remote-Start a Car | eHow.com

 

[WilliamBos]

Here is a better solution over a block heater...


Webasto - Heating Systems for Trucks

 

[DarkBlack]

Correct


:thumbsup:

Lower first number is ALWAYS better.

Unless for some reason you want the oil THAT much thicker when cold:confused2:

wrong.

 

[PoorMansCat]

Polaris has an oil that is a 0W40 full synthetic... I put that stuff in everything... my small engines anyway. I do not change them often... sometimes they go for years between changes... have yet to have any issues... no engine failures, leaks, smoking, etc.. One of my B&S 2 cylinders has over 300 hours on it... Maybe its luck.. i dont know.. but its working.
My wifes Mazda CX-9 (ford engine) calls for 5-20... I am jsut running Valvoline in it... but I have never liked the mechanical noise it makes...

 

[WilliamBos]

Polaris has an oil that is a 0W40 full synthetic... I put that stuff in everything... my small engines anyway. I do not change them often... sometimes they go for years between changes... have yet to have any issues... no engine failures, leaks, smoking, etc.. One of my B&S 2 cylinders has over 300 hours on it... Maybe its luck.. i dont know.. but its working.
My wifes Mazda CX-9 (ford engine) calls for 5-20... I am jsut running Valvoline in it... but I have never liked the mechanical noise it makes...

Actually, PS4 is a 2W50, that is what Polaris claims it to be anyway.

 

[Dr Dave]

I use motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend oil and motorcraft filters, 05 taurus 270k, 07 F250 110k, 01 F150 102k:thumbsup:

Dave

 

[LD1]

wrong.

Anything to back up your opinion or are you just trolling?

 

[DarkBlack]

Correct


:thumbsup:

Lower first number is ALWAYS better.

Unless for some reason you want the oil THAT much thicker when cold:confused2:

Not trying to start a fight.No trolling at all. Just pointing out that your opening statement is wrong. Don't want readers to take conditional conclusions as broad based fact. There's a lot of mis-information on the net.

for your statement to have even a chance of being true, you would have to narrow it down to full synthetic only.
And then you would have to narrow it down to applictations that have short run times and frequent start ups.

 

[LD1]

Not trying to start a fight.No trolling at all. Just pointing out that your opening statement is wrong. Don't want readers to take conditional conclusions as broad based fact. Ther's a lot of mis information on the net.

Do you care to share you opinion on why the lower number is not better?? Because comming on here and just simply stating "wrong" to a comment from another member, with no explination, and without trying to "make your case" is the definition of trolling to a TEE.

 

[DarkBlack]

Do you care to share you opinion on why the lower number is not better?? Because comming on here and just simply stating "wrong" to a comment from another member, with no explination, and without trying to "make your case" is the definition of trolling to a TEE.

I actually think you are trying to start something, since you intentionally left of my second paragraph.
I'm not going to copy and paste oil theroy to fight with you. I suggest you google about "making the spread" , or about polymer modifiers or whatever. I guess you think everyone in the world is stupid who either makes or uses straight weight lubes, or lubes that have close spreads? Have you ever heard of machines that run 24/7?
Weekend warrier chinese tractor result don't mean that's what is good for all applications
Here's a spoilier. Conventional Straight wt 30 outlasts 10w30. 10w30 outlasts 5w30. Nuff said.
Your experience with lubes for a seasonal non-pro application don't apply for eveyone.

Opps.. I have to edit this here and add a smiley face, otherwise some folks might think I was getting too serious

 

[LD1]

I actually think you are trying to start something, since you intentionally left of my second paragraph.
I'm not going to copy and paste oil theroy to fight with you. I suggest you google about "making the spread" , or about polymer modifiers or whatever. I guess you think everyone in the world is stupid who either makes or uses straight weight lubes, or lubes that have close spreads? Have you ever heard of machines that run 24/7?
Weekend warrier chinese tractor result don't mean that's what is good for all applications
Here's a spoilier. Conventional Straight wt 30 outlasts 10w30. 10w30 outlasts 5w30. Nuff said.
Your experience with lubes for a seasonal non-pro application don't apply for eveyone.

Opps.. I have to edit this here and add a smiley face, otherwise some folks might think I was getting too serious

No I did not intentionally leave out your second paragraph. Infact, I quoted your WHOLE post. And I also notice that you edited your post at the SAME time mine was posted. Since it takes me a few minutes to type, I actually hit the quote button on you BEFORE you edited. Perhaps you were editing and adding at the same time I was posting??? Maybe the crossed in cyber-space:confused3:

BUT...you do make a valid point. For something that runs 24/7 and at a CONSTANT temperature, a straight weight oil is indeed best. BUT, since we are on a "weekend-warrior" tractor forum, and we are talking about trucks and tractors, maybe I made an error in "assuming" what we were talking about.

Let me clarify: for 90% of us here, that start a vehicle twice or more a day (once to and once from work), or a tractor several times a day, lower start-up weight oil is best IMO. Even on 10k intervals with synthetic oil, the viscosity modifier additives are far from being worn out when we are changing out oil.

And my tractor is Korean BTW....NOT Chinese

 

[dmccarty]

And the answer to having a warm vehicle each and every morning can be found here: How to Remote-Start a Car | eHow.com

A remote starter costs money. Running a engine and not driving cost more money. :laughing: I can wait 5 minutes before the truck warms up. The kids complain but I figure it makes them tougher!

Later,
Dan

 

[greasemonkeyok]

DarkBlack is correct about the lower first number because that is the weight of the base oil. Oversimplified, additives (viscosity modifiers) that make a thinner base oil have similar properties to a thicker oil at higher temperatures are not as good as the thicker base oil while operating at the higher temperatures. That is why the "start frequently" vs "run for a long time" factor is an important criteria in the choice.

If you care to educate yourself further, a good place to start is:
- Bob is the Oil Guy

Sorry about the duplication LD1 - I missed your last post.

 

[Soundguy]

and if you care to educate yourself further, you might want to look for better info that bob is the oil guy..

 

[LD1]

and if you care to educate yourself further, you might want to look for better info that bob is the oil guy..

:laughing:

 

[greasemonkeyok]

and if you care to educate yourself further, you might want to look for better info that bob is the oil guy..

Are you saying you have been on the site and find the information generally erroneous? If so, what are your sources? I'm open to being educated if you have any recommendations. Or, was your post just for LD1's amusement.

After all, I regularly read Machinery Lubrication, Jason Sowards, Editor-In-Chief, and find that much of the same information can be gleaned from Bob is the Oil Guy. And the latter is easier for most members to access than subscribing to Machinery Lubrication.

 

[LD1]

DarkBlack is correct about the lower first number because that is the weight of the base oil. Oversimplified, additives (viscosity modifiers) that make a thinner base oil have similar properties to a thicker oil at higher temperatures are not as good as the thicker base oil while operating at the higher temperatures.

That is ONLY correct about dino oils. And if you do any reading on oils (and even "bob"), The VI modifiers are NOT the first things that wear out. You should be changing your oil LONG before the VI additives cause you the problems.

BUT....on synthetic oils like I run, they do NOT use a thinner base oil. The base oil is the SECOND number. So, a 0w30 syn is a 30 base oil and NO Viscosity modifiers. And BTW, I dont think I have ever even seen a 0w30 dino oil.

But either way, I stand by my "lower first # the better" statement. Because your and darkblack's statements about VI modifiers is NOT true with syn oil. And with dino oil, you should be changing LONG before the VI modifiers wear out. IF you run a dino oil and the viscosity modifiers wear out, that is the least of your problems.