What Is This On My CK30H?

[joshuabardwell]

Diesels run very lean except at the highest power level, which is one reason Diesels produce so little carbon monoxide. The lack of a throttle plate is also why Diesels use so little fuel at idle; they don't have to work to suck air past a throttle plate as do gas engines.

Can you speak a bit more to this? I have noticed that commercial truck drivers and equipment operators often leave their rigs idling, and I used to wonder whether that was pretty inefficient. I have since gotten a hunch that it has something to do with a difference between gas engines and diesel. And now you're supporting that. Often, when I get off my tractor to... I don't know... load something up or hook up a chain or whatever, I'll turn the engine off to save fuel. But it may be a waste of effort if idling is actually using very little fuel. In fact, it may be creating more wear on the starter and engine, constantly starting up all the time.

 

[SSdoxie]

The manual for Bobcat is written by Bobcat technical staff, engineers. That's why I don't know what is stated in Kioti manual, but the fluid level check points and fill points are painted orange for easy identification. If the CK is like my 225 the cap in the valve cover is NOT orange.

 

[ozley]

I could find the thread in the NH fourm but here is a quote about filling of oil.

Originally Posted by MiserableOldFart
The TC26 DA is getting old enough now that there might be some owners out there who are not original owners and not on the mailing list from CNH, so I thought I'd put this up as a warning: There is a service bulletin out on oil: When you add oil, or change oil in the TC26DA (don't know about other models, but it would seem logical that at least the TC23DA would have the same problem.) Be VERY careful to pour the oil in S-L-O-W-L-Y. I also would take the precaution (that seems logical though for all I know it might make things worse) of having the engine well warmed up for oil changes so that it's still warm when you replace the oil as well.

Apparently, pouring the oil in fast (as the very large oil fill invites you to do) can DESTROY the engine. I also take the precaution of, after filling slowly, letting the tractor sit for 10 minutes or so to allow all the oil to flow into the oil pan, then checking again for level before starting.

The service bulletin came as a total surprise to me. I had changed the oil a couple times myself after the dealer did it the first time.

Just went down and got the bulletin. Hadn't seen for a while and it indeed covers a whole bunch of models. The number of the bulletin is 0606-T3 and it covers TC23DA, TC26DA, TC30, TC35A, TC35DA, TC40DA, TC40A, TC45A, TC45DA, TC48DA, TZ18DA, TZ22DA, TZ25DA, TC29DA, TC33DA, MC22, MC28, MC35, and commercial front mowers.

I think someone put a thread about this up in the past, but there is always the chance of new owners of used machines out there that haven't seen it.

There are further instructions in the bulletin regarding how to address the problem if you believe oil has gotten into the breather valve into the intake manifold and cylinders.

 

[Coyote machine]

The manual for Bobcat is written by Bobcat technical staff, engineers. That's why I don't know what is stated in Kioti manual, but the fluid level check points and fill points are painted orange for easy identification. If the CK is like my 225 the cap in the valve cover is NOT orange.

Once again you are right on the money! Let's hang out on the TBN Kioti/Bobcat forums and keep things straight for those who may have questions that sometimes get all kind of off the wall answers...

Texas,
I'm glad you've come to see reason! And as SSdoxie states very well- ORANGE caps are the location for fluids to enter the tractor.
FORGET about logic and why a Korean manufacturer of tractors would or wouldn't provide absolute assurances to you the consumer to prevent mistakes on the part of DIYers like yourself. You've probably heard of the expression 'Caveat Emptor' - buyer beware?! It applies here too.
One other question? Do you own an owner's manual for your tractor? If not get one along with a service manual. I wouldn't bother with a parts manual- the parts change too frequently for them to be relevant/accurate for long- and the information is available online and through the dealer network. Don't mistake a life of using gas powered engines for equating to knowing anything about a diesel engine. A horse is not a cow. They both pee and poo, and eat food, but there the similarity ends, just like gas and diesel- similar but different, in many ways.

 

[Texas Kioti]

And as SSdoxie states very well- ORANGE caps are the location for fluids to enter the tractor.

I figured out quickly while performing my 50 hour service that the orange leads you through the process of draining and adding fluids. This is actually what led me to ask my original question that started this thread. When I was done changing everything, I saw that orange fill port in the picture I posted, and I knew I hadn't added any fluids there

One other question? Do you own an owner's manual for your tractor? If not get one along with a service manual.

I do indeed have an owners manual as well as a service manual. I am at work right now and can't look up the mystery cap information for myself, which is why I posted here asking for guidance. When I get home in the morning, I will look more closely at the service information. I very well may have overlooked the oil fill location because as I stated earlier, I saw the fill on the valve cover and just did what i always do and added the oil there. Luckily I added it slowly :thumbsup:

 

[Coyote machine]

Texas- make a note that when tightening the drain pan bolts do NOT overtighten them! This can lead to them being stripped out when loosening in future. This is NOT covered in the manuals, but is a somewhat known issue with their use of aluminum oil pans.

 

[ritcheyvs]

... ritcheyvs! Are you a diesel mechanic by chance?...

Negative but I have owned and maintained several Diesel-powered sail boats and those engines are pretty similar to our tractors. I also owned and maintained several Mercedes Diesel cars, all with over 250K miles on them. I got into this IP configuration issue while trying to help sherrym, who has the exact same DK45S model I have. I figured I was at high risk of the same failure so I had a vested interest in her solving her IP problem. It turned out that the "right" Kioti service manual for our tractors shows the wrong IP linkages and controls so together we had a lot of "fun" sorting all this out. Along the way, others with IP issues posted observations and photos that helped supply the missing information on how this "new" Kioti IP configuration works. Such is the power of TBN!

 

[ritcheyvs]

Can you speak a bit more to this? I have noticed that commercial truck drivers and equipment operators often leave their rigs idling, and I used to wonder whether that was pretty inefficient. I have since gotten a hunch that it has something to do with a difference between gas engines and diesel. And now you're supporting that. Often, when I get off my tractor to... I don't know... load something up or hook up a chain or whatever, I'll turn the engine off to save fuel. But it may be a waste of effort if idling is actually using very little fuel. In fact, it may be creating more wear on the starter and engine, constantly starting up all the time.

I don't know what more there is to say except Diesels use little fuel to idle because they do very little work while idling. Idling gas engines have nearly 30 inches of vacuum in manifold and near atmospheric pressure in the crankcase. So the gas engine has to work hard on the intake cycle pulling the piston down against a 14+ PSI pressure differential. Diesels don't have this problem. The Diesel does work harder on the compression cycle but gets almost all of that energy back on the power cycle and the exhaust cycle is a wash.

But for safety sake shutting down is smart in many cases. Wear is wear but Diesel starters are pretty robust and starting a warm Diesel is pretty easy on the mechanicals. Cold starts are much harder especially if the engine has sat for an extended period and the oil film is thin. Some big industrial Diesels pre-heat the oil and use electrical pumps to circulate the oil before really cold starts. Pretty-much all Soviet tanks have this feature but then Siberia gets pretty cold.

 

[Alien]

I have the Service Manual and Workshop Manual for the CK 30
It specifically shows the Oil Inlet on top of the Rocker cover. If oil is low, add oil and an arrow pointing to the rocker/tappet cover cap. No mention of filling it anywhere else in my book. Thats where I fill mine.

 

[Texas Kioti]

I have the Service Manual and Workshop Manual for the CK 30
It specifically shows the Oil Inlet on top of the Rocker cover. If oil is low, add oil and an arrow pointing to the rocker/tappet cover cap. No mention of filling it anywhere else in my book. Thats where I fill mine.

Well...there you have it folks :drink: I guess there are indeed 2 places to add engine oil