U-joints 1997 F150 4x4

[deerefan]

I was backing up the other day and heard a squeaking sound from under the truck. It seems it is coming from the u-joint at the rear differential. I have not been able to locate a grease fitting to re-lubricate. Are these non-serviceable? Also, how difficult are they to replace? They are the original u-joints with around 180k miles. There is 0 slack in the driveshaft.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not hard at all. I just changed one last weekend in my neighbors 07 Dmax with 78,000 miles. Its the 3rd for it so you are lucky to go 180,000. The first replacement was done by the dealer under warranty and was a sealed unit like yours.

The one I put in I got at O Riley's Auto Parts and is a Moog. It had a weird grease fitting in it so I took it out and put in a regular one so my grease gun can hit it when I do the oil changes and such. To remove it I removed the shaft and put it on a anvil and and beat it out with a 4# sledge and a deep well socket as a punch.

Chris

 

[Dr Dave]

Not bad to replace, replace both or all 3 if it has 2 shafts and a hanger bearing. Getting the 12mm, 12 point, flange bolts out is the worst part, they have Locktight on them, sometimes a litle heat from a propane tourch helps. Go with a quality joint, Ford, Moog or Spicer, line up zerts when assembling.
Before disasembly, mark yoke, flange and drive shaft, with a scribe, to eliminate any balance problems.

Dave

 

[LD1]

They are pretty easy to change once you get the drive-shaft out, which is also pretty easy.

There are several methods to getting them pressed out too. First, most have some sort of clip that holds the round caps in. Usually some type of clip or snapring. There were a few that had some type of rubber or plastic injected into them and you had to heat them and watch them ooz out. I think that was a GM thing.

You can use a hydraulic press to get them out, or a big vise with some sockets, or just use a hammer and drive them out.

As to the lack of grease fittings.....not many things are greasable on cars/trucks anymore.

And dont take this the wrong way, cause I dont know how long you have had the truck or all the details, but this is a perfect example as to WHY they dont make things greasable anymore. Because you have 180k miles and are hearing a funny noise and just now looking for a zerk. (again, for all I know you just got the truck??)

But people in general neglect greasing things until their is a noise, and by that time it is too late. Manufactures have found that by making it a sealed unit with no zerks, the parts will last longer than one with zerks that gets neglected. So thats why they do it. When you replace them, you will have the option on getting ones with zerks, or ones without.

And ditto on replacing both or all 3.

 

[Willl]

2 piece drive line ?

If so, might as well do the carrier bearing too.

 

[deerefan]

2 piece drive line ?

If so, might as well do the carrier bearing too.

No, single drive line thankfully.

 

[Johnp33]

If it is a single drive shaft and you can not do the steady bearing, why not the transmission or the rear end. DU DU DU.

If you are not sure, and the "U" joint is tight, jack it up with one rear wheel off the ground, put it in park or in a low gear, with the emergency brake off, if needed block the front wheels, use your foot, and rotate the tire, back and forth, and watch for movement, even a puff of rust, check both joints. I prefer "U" joints you can grease but then again I grease my own unit.

 

[clemsonfor]

I was backing up the other day and heard a squeaking sound from under the truck. It seems it is coming from the u-joint at the rear differential. I have not been able to locate a grease fitting to re-lubricate. Are these non-serviceable? Also, how difficult are they to replace? They are the original u-joints with around 180k miles. There is 0 slack in the driveshaft.

Yep that the U-joint squeek or squish that there going dry/bad. I replaced the ones in my old k10 a year and a half ago. The factory ones have no grease fittings as most of the ball joints now dont.

Yea some have goop that has to be heated out if your gonna beat and not press. I do my own work but the local shop does them for $20 i supply joint. I have changed them when younger in parking lots and other places with a buddy, i think i will pay the $20 for them if i only have one or 2 to replace.

 

[deerefan]

Yep that the U-joint squeek or squish that there going dry/bad. I replaced the ones in my old k10 a year and a half ago. The factory ones have no grease fittings as most of the ball joints now dont.

Yea some have goop that has to be heated out if your gonna beat and not press. I do my own work but the local shop does them for $20 i supply joint. I have changed them when younger in parking lots and other places with a buddy, i think i will pay the $20 for them if i only have one or 2 to replace.

I really enjoy mechanic work but usually leave the driveline stuff, such as brakes, to the pros. I am confident I can tackle this, now if I could find the time!!!

 

[clemsonfor]

I can do them its not that i am afraid to do it or anything, its just i have a bit (i said a bit) more money than i did 10-15 yrs ago. i just would rather spend my time doing something else than cussing and banging U-joints. I still do all my own brake work, its super easy to me, and most shops will tell you there pure profit.