Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[sdkubota]

I think it is something with the pic uploader on TBN now. Not sure if they are looking into it, but 99% of the pics I post here are off my phone. I just took a pic with my phone and it wont let me upload it.

The test pics I tried earlier are pics that I have already uploaded before. They are the only ones that seem to go through. But I cant get ANY new pics to load now:mur:

I can see the video of you banging your head against a brick wall if that helps.

 

[LD1]

Its terrible. Cause now I'd really like to know what model this blade is, and right now, me and the OP are the only ones that see it:confused2:

It looks like could be either a RB1684 or a RB2684, but did landpride ever make blades for deere??? Then again, there are some erie similarities to Frontieer RB2084 or RB2184 :confused2: But cant put a handle on it exactally.

Its also strange how similar LP is to frontier?? Makes ID-ing things difficult. Did the CEO's wife of LP have an affair with the CEO of frontier or something:confused2:

 

[LD1]

Well...until I or the op can post the pic, I believe I have narrowed it down to a JD model 45 rear blade.

You can see pleanty of pics here john deere 45 rear blade specs - Google Search

IMO, it is borderline for a JD5303 tractor. I can see it not lasting long if you work it hard.

 

[sdkubota]

Looks pretty light duty if that is what LD1 posted.

 

[LD1]

I wish they'd get the picture thing fixed.

$250 probabally isnt a bad deal for a JD 45 blade. They seem to bring $400-$900 on machinerytrader. So I dont think it is too bad of a deal at all (especially if the chain is included. Looks like a 3/8" 16ft+ chain worth $50 right there).

I just dont want to see you spend $250 and then fold the thing up like a pretzle. $250 is a good deal for that blade. But $250 for that blade all mangled and bent up isnt so great if ya know what I mean.

 

[deere5105]

Have tried all the suggested tricks and just can't get the picture to load. Keeps going all the way through the steps, but ends in Error.

Hats off to LD1 who has worked on this probably more than I have and actually found what I would agree to be the correct model for this blade. It does look like it is a JD 45 and might have had some strengthening or repair work done around the pivot point. The seller states it has no fractures and is looking for a model/identification number. One picture listed in LD1's link above shows a similar unit on a machine just like mine. Will have to spend $50 or so in fuel to make the trip to look at it, but makes me wonder for the seldom use if it would be worth $200 or even the $250 he is asking. In the attached pictures the tires are spread out and I have since moved them back in. I am running a 6' cutter and it seems to cover the tires ok. I also use a 78" box blade that covers the tire tracks with out issues. These pictures already showed up in a file while attaching. Makes me wonder how to get the other picture in that file??

 

[LD1]

I could be wrong, but I really think you would mess that blade up with that tractor.

If you just wanted a blade for snow, I would say jump on it. But for ditching and hard scraping/pulling, you really need a beefier blade IMO. And wether its new or used, I doubt you find one suitable under 500-600 range used. And the everythingattachment blade is going to be the most affordable new.

And if you DO decide to get that blade and take your chances, either A, re-inforce the blade. Severaly ways to do that if you have some scrap metal and a welder. OR, ONLY use it in 2wd and BE CAREFUL. If you get stuck, RAISE the blade and THEN use 4wd

 

[LD1]

Pics are back up and working. Heres the blade in question that I believe is a JD 45

 

[deere5105]

Pics are back up and working. Heres the blade in question that I believe is a JD 45

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284349"/>

Thanks for posting picture! Decisions decisions.

 

[94BULLITT]

That is not enough blae for that tractor. You are going to need a good blade to hold that tractor.

 

[sdkubota]

My tractor is 5' wide and my blade is 7' wide. At maximum angle (30 degrees) it sticks out about 6" past the wheels which is nice.

 

[deere5105]

Just had to try re-posting to see if picture comes up. Seems the consensus is this unit would only be suited to loose soil, with my situation, and potentially end up with a damaged useless blade. The price and width are tempting. Not sure I would be happy with these limitations and think would also like to be able to tilt too.

 

[LD1]

Just had to try re-posting to see if picture comes up. Seems the consensus is this unit would only be suited to loose soil, with my situation, and potentially end up with a damaged useless blade. The price and width are tempting. Not sure I would be happy with these limitations and think would also like to be able to tilt too.

View attachment 284393

Do you have and are you handy with a welder??

About $20 worth of scrap peices and that blade could be made indestructible

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 7' 45 blade and use it for most of my rearblade jobs and it has held up so far. I do take it easy since I know it is light duty and we have a lot of large rocks buried in my locale. You can move the blade over and offset to one side for dressing up a ditch but I would really think a heavier duty blade would be a far better choice for a 5303. This blade is better suited for a 30 to 35 hp tractor imo, and I plan on using it with a 2720 size machine if I go that route.

 

[deere5105]

Do you have and are you handy with a welder??

About $20 worth of scrap peices and that blade could be made indestructible

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.





View attachment 284468

I would buy it for $200 or the $250 if it isn't bent up allready, seems to be a decent blade as mine is about 12 years old. You could beef it up a little before it gets bent and have a small enough investment to recoup it later if you go larger. Used implements in this price range seem to be easy enough to sell so the risk is minimal imo.

 

[deere5105]

I would buy it for $200 or the $250 if it isn't bent up allready, seems to be a decent blade as mine is about 12 years old. You could beef it up a little before it gets bent and have a small enough investment to recoup it later if you go larger. Used implements in this price range seem to be easy enough to sell so the risk is minimal imo.

I have submitted an offer of $200 if is in condition as stated. Out of curiousity, twice now there has been mention of strengthening or beefing this unit up. I have never worked with a straight blade before. What is the consensus on what is the "weak link" and what is the recommended work to strengthen? I have noticed it seems the main frame just before the pivot point has been boxed in. I assume this was a previous damaged or weak area?

 

[LD1]

The tilt really isnt a pain, and isnt usually very usefull UNLESS you also have the offset feature. The tilt, tilts ALOT. Only really good for digging a shallow trench WITHOUT the offset feature.

So...if you are ditching without the offset, you dont need much tilt, in which case using the 3PH linkage isnt bad at all. The idea of tilt and offset working TOGETHER is you can stay up on the flat and do ditches. Since without the offset, you will have to drive down in the ditch, the tractor itself "tilts"

As to strengthening....usually the blade itself is the weak point. The pin on the blade you are looking at "could" have been repaired just because of years of use...it got sloppy. Most of the time I see a blade bent or tweaked, it is the blade itself bent. In the picture you posted of that 2184, notice the extra roll at the top, and then down by the cutting edge, the peice of steel welded on edge. If you can imagine sitting behind your blade, with your feet in the middle and grab ahold of each end and pull backwards, (like a bow and arrow), it is easy to see how that simple little peice offers alot of re-inforcement.

Take a look of the backsides of blades like these for ideas
RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride
http://www.kingkutter.com/store.aspx?id=137
RHINO | Blades | Heavy Duty Rear Blades

Notice they are all rely on more than just the curve of the blade to keep it from turning into a reverse u shape. Some use flat steel and gussets, some use a box-it-in approach. Not hard to get creative and come up with somehting effective.

I can say for SURE, since I have never looked at a 45 in person, but I would think that the 3ph a-frame and king pin would hold up fine.

 

[94BULLITT]

I bet he bent the thing then straightened it and beefed it up.

 

[idaho2]

Deere 5105,

I have a 96" Bison, if you want weight, tilt, offset and angle look at these. I have mine attached to a 55hp Mahindra 4wd 5530.

idaho2