Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[deere5105]

Made call after no response to email offer. Was stated someone coming to look at it. Repeated offer if interested. Several hours later received call other person going to be next week looking. Made trip and purchased for $200. I think I could get my money back easily if not satisfied. Seems like most of the original stickers are on it except the model number. Blade shows some wear but otherwise appears straight. Will check it close in daylight this weekend.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have submitted an offer of $200 if is in condition as stated. Out of curiousity, twice now there has been mention of strengthening or beefing this unit up. I have never worked with a straight blade before. What is the consensus on what is the "weak link" and what is the recommended work to strengthen? I have noticed it seems the main frame just before the pivot point has been boxed in. I assume this was a previous damaged or weak area?

The king pin is about 3" diameter iirc, pretty decent sized. I am reminded each time this is discussed that I need to brace up my own blade. Maybe I can brace it up and take some pics for you to copy. LD1 makes some good suggestion above and let me say again that it is alot easier to brace it up BEFORE it gets bent. I should practice what I preach.:ashamed:

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks pretty good, I am concerned about the blade being tweaked in the second picture though. Guess we will find out tomorrow.

 

[LD1]

Yea, I dont know if its an illusion, but in the second pic, the side that is still up in the truck looks tweaked pretty good. But other pics it looks straight???

If it is straight, and in otherwise good condition, you could slap a new cutting edge on it (~$100), and a fresh coat of paint (~$30) and have a total of $330 in it, And I think you could easily double that if you wanted to sell it.

 

[deere5105]

Here are a few more pictures.

 

[LD1]

Still kinda hard to tell. So I'll ask...Is it bent or straight?

In the second pic, it looks straight

In the third, it looks a little bowed.

I also see that part of the horizontal peice is bowed wehre the pins are. Easy fix. Straighten it, box the underside in, (also helps prevent wasps from making a home), and add triangle gussets from it up to the toplink "tower"

 

[Furu]

As others have pointed out. I would be concerned that your tractor is too large for that blade. I think you will either destroy it quickly or you will be spending more time trying to ensure that you take it easy on it that it will slow your projects too much. I have an RBT 4096 that is very robust that is used on a JD 4720 which is smaller than your JD and I watch that I don't over do it and it is a blade rated for 60-100HP tractors and I run it on a 58 HP tractor.

 

[deere5105]

Still kinda hard to tell. So I'll ask...Is it bent or straight?

In the second pic, it looks straight

In the third, it looks a little bowed.

I also see that part of the horizontal peice is bowed wehre the pins are. Easy fix. Straighten it, box the underside in, (also helps prevent wasps from making a home), and add triangle gussets from it up to the toplink "tower"

In the woods working today. I think it is a little bowed. May try to put a string on it to be certain and how much.

 

[deere5105]

As others have pointed out. I would be concerned that your tractor is too large for that blade. I think you will either destroy it quickly or you will be spending more time trying to ensure that you take it easy on it that it will slow your projects too much. I have an RBT 4096 that is very robust that is used on a JD 4720 which is smaller than your JD and I watch that I don't over do it and it is a blade rated for 60-100HP tractors and I run it on a 58 HP tractor.

Seems to be the consensus. Guy indicated he had been using it on an old JD 4010 and JD 2030 to keep up driveway. Previous place he said had about a mile of drive. I figure for no more than I paid and no more than I will likely use it, it would be ok. I also think I can get my money back out of it if I see it is not working out.

 

[deere5105]

Looks like from side to side, the ends are swept toward the hitch about 1/2" or so. Would have figured it would be the other direction if bent.

 

[LD1]

What about down near the cutting edge?

Cause if the EDGE is what caught, it could have pulled backwards while causing the top there to "roll" forward a bit??

All in all, it dont look too bad though.

I'd do a little bracing and a quick re-paint and you'll be good to go. For the price you got it at, unless you totally mangle it, you did good.

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks like from side to side, the ends are swept toward the hitch about 1/2" or so. Would have figured it would be the other direction if bent.

View attachment 284617

Sounds like the middle section is loosing the curvature or being straightened out. I know mine isn't tweaked at all and I really haven't used it much at any rate so I might be better off to reinforce it now before something happens. If I can do this I could mail you some cardboard templates for the braces if you wan't. Don't think it would be difficult or expensive to fix and should be very worthwhile to do.


EDIT: The picture didn't show up for me until after I posted. I agree with LD1 that the bottom ends have likely twisted and rolled the blade slightly. Still think adding some ribs and braces is the best thing to do. You can probably unbolt the blade and lay it flat on concrete then use your tractor to drive over it and push it down flat. Then weld the longitudinal stiffeners in place to hold it straight. A few ribs to hold the curvature and you should be in good shape for a cheap price.

 

[LD1]

IF you are interested in hearing how I would do the re-enforcement, here goes...

View attachment 284636

this supports the blade itself. This is the strongback. Dont have to be super heavy duty. Its the added depth that gives strength. 1/8" plate would be sufficient. Or could use a piece of 5" channel iron or something and then cut the triangles for top and bottom.

This is how I would strengthen the A-frame:

View attachment 284637

Box in the underside of the horizontal. This will increase the strength in the horizontal (pulling direction) significantly. And also prevent bees.
The gussets will help prevent bending in the vertical direction like it has already been bent.

This is what I would do if the blade were mine. Materials to be used and design of it would all be dependent on what I have in the scrap pile. But even if you had to buy new steel, AND have it cut/sheared to your dimensions (triangles and such) I dont see it being more than $100 worth. And this would significantly strengthen the blade. The only last weak link would be the pivot pin diameter, and the category 1 hitch set-up. But I dont think any of that would be a big issue.

Also, if it has not been done, one other thing I would do...that triangular box u-shape piece where the TL hooks up....that entire vertical section, if it isnt welded solid to the main beam...I would do so.

Again, this is just what I would do if it were mine. It would take maybe half a day at most with just a set of torches and a welder and digging through the scrap pile. But YMMV as always.

 

[94BULLITT]

It looks like to me it is all twisted up. The hitch pins are even bent downward.

 

[jenkinsph]

LD1,
You bring up some good suggestions imo, and I went out to look at mine more closely. The pin is 2.5" diameter as measured and while I would prefer it to be 3" it is still reasonably strong. for lack of better description the rear blade frame or carrier is about 3/8" thick and appears to be good enough so adding the bracing to the blade as you mention seems like a good choice to me. I scrounged around in my scrap pile and found some box tubing that could be cut to fit similar to your suggestions.

In addition I am considering just building a new front assembly so that I can make it offset while I do all of this. I think I have all the material with the exception of the front pin.

Now I am not thinking this wil be as good as a proper well built blade but it should get me by for a little longer and the cost to upgrade is very minimal.

 

[94BULLITT]

I woul also run a piece or two angle across the whole 7ft of the moldboard.

 

[LD1]

I woul also run a piece or two angle across the whole 7ft of the moldboard.

I know my drawing is crappy, but if what I showed in the first picture is done, the angle wouldnt be necessary, or nearly as strong.

What I am describing is how the backs of heavier blades are made. Look at the landpride 35 series RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

Also...I think a 2.5" kingpin is pleanty. I have one of the KK HD blades King Kutter Heavy Duty Rear Blades And even though I pull it behind a smaller tractor, I am fairly certain that it is rated much higher than either one you guys' tractors.

 

[94BULLITT]

I know my drawing is crappy, but if what I showed in the first picture is done, the angle wouldnt be necessary, or nearly as strong.

What I am describing is how the backs of heavier blades are made. Look at the landpride 35 series RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

Also...I think a 2.5" kingpin is pleanty. I have one of the KK HD blades King Kutter Heavy Duty Rear Blades And even though I pull it behind a smaller tractor, I am fairly certain that it is rated much higher than either one you guys' tractors.

 

[deere5105]

Several good ideas. Will try to put it on tomorrow and see if can get a better idea of what is going on. I would like to correct any issues, brace it up, re-paint and re-sticker. Are the old original stickers still available?

 

[94BULLITT]

Several good ideas. Will try to put it on tomorrow and see if can get a better idea of what is going on. I would like to correct any issues, brace it up, re-paint and re-sticker. Are the old original stickers still available?

I'd just get some ebay stickers. I found a guy on there selling decals and he will make anything you want if you send him a picture. If you are interested I can pm you his email.