WellWater and AIR>GRRRRR

[chopped]

Hello all,
I have a question and my opinion and would like to share it with anyone who has a responce.
My ptoblem was alot of air in my water stream in the mornings, This will be an artesian well, 130 foot deep, and pump set at about 120 feet.One inch line from a submersable pump.Pitless adapter and all using one inch black well pipe, double clamps at all connections.of cource a check valve in the pump, which is about 12 years old. the whole system is in 1980.
Ok, so I did up the pitless adater end and replace it with a new one.The older style had a leatehr gasket ,where the new one has an 'o' ring.It was apparent it wa leaking at the inside of the adapter as I could see slight bubbles and moisture at the fitting when it was pumping.So its all been replaced.And it has been ok for about a week or week and half.
Now Im getting slightly more air int he system overnight.:thumbdown:
anyways my thought now is that maybe the insdie check valve is also weak and is allowing more water than 'normal' or allowing less hold back of the water and the check valve itself is at fault also.
????? opinions?
The check valve isnt to difficult to change out so I think thta will be my next step .
Thanks..eveyone..

 

[Egon]

Try holding a lit match by the faucet in the morning. Your air may be gases entrained with the water. A situation that is quite common in certain areas.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

If the line to your pump is plastic, and is of 1980 vintage, there's a good chance that it is cracked and allowing the water to seep back into well. This would result in a "head" of air above the pump, which could cause the result you indicate.

 

[chopped]

AHAH yes thats a consideration as the inlet line (from pitless to the pump) I snapped right off.(it didnt bend),So thats a new section.I wonder if Lowes or Home depot have legnths longer than 100 foot aval. I shall check. thanks

 

[chopped]

Im assuming this split and leak would have to be above the water level as if it were below it wouldnt have air to seep in.?

 

[2LaneCruzer]

Im assuming this split and leak would have to be above the water level as if it were below it wouldnt have air to seep in.?

Hmmm. I think your assumption is correct; however it might depend on how deep your well is. I know there is a hydraulic phenomenon that exists when you attempt to "lift" water with a pump that "sucks" instead of "pushes" that limits the "lift" to something like 32 feet? I know that pumping water upward using this method required that it be done in stages to overcome this phenomenon.

It might be that if the leak is below the water line, the water will drop a certain number of feet before it creates enough vacuum to stop the water from dropping down. Pardon my lack of eloquence here; I'm sure we have an engineer or two here that can explain it much better than I can. In any case, I would replace the whole length of pipe, because you will probably have to pull the pump anyway.

 

[Raspy]

It sounds like you only have one check valve and that it's at the bottom of the well near the pump. These are pretty much guaranteed to leak some and when they do there is a vacuum on the standing head above it at the surface. Especially if no water has been used for a while, like overnight.

This vacuum will draw air in through any weakness in the system. The pressure tank can hide this problem unless it has failed. If it has it can allow air in. The pitless is another spot, but there could be others.

You should have a check valve every 25' or so down the pipe to the pump.

You also might be getting air at the pump if your well is going dry and the pump is right at the waterline.

I don't understand how yours can be an "artisian" well if it's 130 feet deep an has a pump at 120 feet. Artisian means the water is at the surface, doesn't it????

 

[Egon]

If you're pump isn't cycling at times of no water usage you probably don't have a leak.


Do a pressure test!!!:

Light a match?

 

[chopped]

It sounds like you only have one check valve and that it's at the bottom of the well near the pump. These are pretty much guaranteed to leak some and when they do there is a vacuum on the standing head above it at the surface. Especially if no water has been used for a while, like overnight.

This vacuum will draw air in through any weakness in the system. The pressure tank can hide this problem unless it has failed. If it has it can allow air in. The pitless is another spot, but there could be others.

You should have a check valve every 25' or so down the pipe to the pump.

You also might be getting air at the pump if your well is going dry and the pump is right at the waterline.

I don't understand how yours can be an "artisian" well if it's 130 feet deep an has a pump at 120 feet. Artisian means the water is at the surface, doesn't it????

I have a standard 1 inch check valve on the manifold by the captive air tank. My thought was if this was 'weak' it could allow the pitless to slightly leak if it was going to ,(even thought its new).I hadnt thought of a check valve every 25 feet. Around here I dont think its the norm at all.Ive worked on 6 or so different wells in my days and none had a check valve inline up the hose but It would make sence if I have to splice or if I replace the hose with 100 foot coils.
On the artisan part.Thats what they are called around here if they arent 'dug' wells.
I read this article.
HowStuffWorks "Artesian Well,"
I know that it was a pounded well (not drilled) and the static level is about 18 foot down. if that helps..
maybe im mis calling it what it is?

 

[tcartwri]

I just went through something similar with the pitless flange. I 'assumed' these castings are all a standard size. They are not. When I finally compared them side by side, there was enough difference in them that the new one would not seat properly in the saddle. Only three times in and out of the casing to figure this out.....