Deere 855 snow plow

[WinterDeere]

So, I'm tired of fixing my too-small and too-old Cub Cadet 123, but with a 42" plow and a 42" snow thrower, it's currently my only driveway snow removal machine. I just bought this Deere 855 MFWD, with plans that I'd like to someday fit a snow plow to it, but with the Cub broken down for the third time in as many weeks, I think it's time to kick that plan into high gear.

The Deere 855 is fitted with a model 52 loader, which I can have on/off in about 10 minutes. I'd love if a snow plow rig could make use of the loader attachment points / method, but know that's wishful thinking without some fab on my own. I have the ability to fab up my own plow rig, but having just moved, I have other / bigger fish to fry at the moment. I'd be willing to buy new or pay to have something fab'd at this point.

Adding to the above sentiment, SWMBO is getting mighty tired of me spending time repeatedly fixing the Cub, now that I have this nice Deere. I think it's time to spend some money and just make this happen... if possible.

Any ideas / advice? I don't think I want to make the loader my primary means of snow removal. I have approximately 6000 sq.ft. / 450 lin.ft. of smoothly paved driveway. I have considered one of the 59" snow throwers, but honestly believe a plow is a better compliment to the loader (and smaller to store, likely cheaper, etc.).

 

[techwrtr2]

If you're patient and careful, you can do a reasonable job with just the loader. I should think a paved drive would be a lot easier than what I clear with is all gravel.

Plow and blower for the 855 use (I think) the same mount up front. You just have PTO mounted in one and not the other.

My personal preference is blower as it allows me to throw the snow further than plow alone. Depending on the winter, I've had some substantial piles of snow from pushing/plowing. It would be nice if that snow where thrown further back from the start. Plow should be cheaper though as you suspect and will be more budget friendly. I use both an ATV with plow and my loader so I can roll the huge piles back some. I'd love to toss the snow much further back right away rather than having to come back later.

 

[Mechanos]

THe correct plow for the 855 is a 380. I don't know about the 52 loader, but with the 70A you have to removed all the loader mounts to make room for the 380 mounts which makes it a pain to switch between the two. With the subframe of the 380, it actually is a larger piece of equipement to store when removed from the tractor. Although you could stand it up on the blade to take up less space. My personal choice would be the 59 blower.

 

[RoyJackson]

Considering the relatively low accumulations we normally get in the south central and southeastern PA area, I'd look into a BXpanded loader bucket mounted plow:
BXpanded Snowplow
The one shown in the link is the 60" model. They also make a 72" unit...probably the one you'd want. This one is easy to drop off to use your bucket, if necessary.
I use the bucket on my 4400, but if I were to buy a plow, I'd definitely consider this one. My drive is gravel and ~150-160 feet. I'm not going to spend a bunch of money on a plow, should I decide to buy one.

SE PA gets hit hard every few years...but most snows are less then 6-8 inches. I can't see spending a lot of money on a plow you won't need that often. If you were in NW PA (Erie), then you'd need something more robust.
There are companies that sell QA plows, but it might be difficult to find one that will fit a 52 loader (is your bucket a bolt on, or QA bucket?).
As far as the blower...well, if you really want one, keep an eye on Craigslist and Search Tempest. Might not be too tough to find a 59" blower, but the mounting brackets might be hard to find...and, you'll need a mid-PTO.

 

[JD755]

I had a 380 front blade but sold it because the hassle of changing brackets, like Mechanos mentioned, was a real PITA. A simple rear blade is what I use now. I used that in reverse mode until I got tired of twisting my back. So I added chains and now drive forward with the front bucket set to just knock down the really tall stuff while the rear blade grades everything to the side.

You may decide later you want a blower, but a rear blade is something you can buy anywhere for cheap and has other uses. My blade has skidshoes which work well on my 300 foot concrete drive.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks, guys! I have seen plenty of those 59" blowers for sale on ebay, craigslist, etc. As suggested, many are missing their mounts, although I guess I could buy a used blower and then buy the mount from my Deere dealer.

Ease of change-over is definitely the priority. I'm actually in the hills an hour north of Philly, we we do get a little more snow, but Roy is right that we typically only get about a half dozen 6" snows per year, and maybe only one or two over 12". However, we've had a half dozen over 24" in the last ten years, two over 30". I'm in an area where my driveway can easily drift upwards of 48" in a windy day with 20" on the ground. I'd rather spend $3k for something that will do it all most easily, than $2k for something that will only work 80% of the time.

I did consider a snow thrower, but had assumed it would be more a PITA for installation, removal, storage, and even use in lighter snow. Maybe I'm wrong on all those points? I do have a buddy with an 855 and a 59" snow thrower, although I think he prefers to use a plow on his 17 hp Cub Cadet most of the time. He does complain about how much snow ends up in his face when using the snow thrower, to the point where he built a cab for his 855.

I've never plowed with a bucket, but I hear it's no fun. I have two parking areas, one for six or eight cars and the other for three, and about 450 lineal feet of driveway.

 

[JD755]

I've never plowed with a bucket, but I hear it's no fun. I have two parking areas, one for six or eight cars and the other for three, and about 450 lineal feet of driveway.

A bucket can be very useful for cleanup and for small areas, but for for clearing a path it does not work well. The key issue is you need to be able to continuously move snow to the side as you drive, as a blade or blower will do. With a bucket you can only go so far before you have to stop and reposition to empty the bucket somewhere.

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks, guys! I have seen plenty of those 59" blowers for sale on ebay, craigslist, etc. As suggested, many are missing their mounts, although I guess I could buy a used blower and then buy the mount from my Deere dealer.

Ease of change-over is definitely the priority. I'm actually in the hills an hour north of Philly, we we do get a little more snow, but Roy is right that we typically only get about a half dozen 6" snows per year, and maybe only one or two over 12". However, we've had a half dozen over 24" in the last ten years, two over 30". I'm in an area where my driveway can easily drift upwards of 48" in a windy day with 20" on the ground. I'd rather spend $3k for something that will do it all most easily, than $2k for something that will only work 80% of the time.

I've never plowed with a bucket, but I hear it's no fun. I have two parking areas, one for six or eight cars and the other for three, and about 450 lineal feet of driveway.

I expect you'll find the mounts/brackets, etc., are no longer available from Deere...that would be the problem, not the snow blower. If you do buy used from an individual, make sure you know what you need to ensure you get all required components.

The key to using a plow (or bucket and plow combination) is to get out there early enough to push the snow away and use the bucket to move it further back, if necessary. You really don't want to wait until the total accumulation has fallen. That's when it's a PITA, especially with a smaller lighter tractor.

I've used a bucket and rear blade for years. The combination works quite well. I sold my old blade and now just use the bucket. "PITA" is a relative term. I find the bucket an easy method and I don't get covered with snow unless the wind is brisk (and I do dress appropriately for such occasions!).

One thing about using a rear blade. If you don't have skid shoes, they can really dig into asphalt or any other surface. The way around that is to rotate the blade so you're pushing with the convex side of the blade.

 

[WinterDeere]

Maybe a rear blade is the way to go, then? Sure would be nice to not have to remove the loader. Then again... the easy removal of this loader is the primary reason I bought this machine. I had an offer to buy a 750 with similar hours in better shape with a bigger loader, backhoe, and brush hog (not needed) for the same price as this 855. The 750 had a Johnson loader, which was not removeable.

 

[RoyJackson]

Maybe a rear blade is the way to go, then? Sure would be nice to not have to remove the loader. Then again... the easy removal of this loader is the primary reason I bought this machine. I had an offer to buy a 750 with similar hours in better shape with a bigger loader, backhoe, and brush hog (not needed) for the same price as this 855. The 750 had a Johnson loader, which was not removeable.

Removing the loader is nice when you're mowing (if you expect to mow with the 855) or other tasks where the loader isn't required. The rear blade is also usable for other tasks...grading, etc.
Just don't like that blade dig into your drive.

 

[lwalsh]

Pick up a six foot backblade and with the bucket you will be in good shape for very little spend. You can always sell the blade if you dont like it. I have a rear blower, a back blade, a loader mounted plow and the bucket. Most of the time I plow the majority of my 1000' asphalt drive with the back blade while driving foreward through the snow. I have never dug into the asphalt. This assumes you have four feet or so to spare on each side of the drive to allow for the build up of the bank over the winter.

 

[WinterDeere]

Cool. I think a rear blade might be the quickest and cheapest way to set up this machine for this winter. Only questions are:

1. Set up to pull the blade driving forward, vs. push it driving backwards. Driveway has several bends and turns along it's length.
2. Chains and/or weights? I have one set of wheel weights, and the loader and blade rig will each add a few hundred. I can get chains cheap for the front tires MFWD, and even the rears, if warranted.

edit: Just checked Tractor Supply, and it looks like I can get any size rear blade from 60" to 96" in the $300 - $400 range. Small for storage on end, too. I do hate the idea of a manual angle, though. Would be interesting to see if anyone has adapted hydraulics to one of these! Also, I guess breaking hard-pack might be tough with the rear blade (no down pressure), but I guess that's where the loader might come in handy.

 

[RoyJackson]

Cool. I think a rear blade might be the quickest and cheapest way to set up this machine for this winter. Only questions are:

1. Set up to pull the blade driving forward, vs. push it driving backwards. Driveway has several bends and turns along it's length.
2. Chains and/or weights? I have one set of wheel weights, and the loader and blade rig will each add a few hundred. I can get chains cheap for the front tires MFWD, and even the rears, if warranted.

edit: Just checked Tractor Supply, and it looks like I can get any size rear blade from 60" to 96" in the $300 - $400 range. Small for storage on end, too. I do hate the idea of a manual angle, though. Would be interesting to see if anyone has adapted hydraulics to one of these! Also, I guess breaking hard-pack might be tough with the rear blade (no down pressure), but I guess that's where the loader might come in handy.

As far as pulling or pushing, I've done both. There have been threads on guys damaging their lower link arms when pushing. The 3PH is designed for pulling...and a rear blade has no trip springs to absorb some of the impact when you hit something.
Most recently (before I sold the blade), I was pulling forward for the most part...works fine.

I'd suggest getting chains for the rear tires. Less stress on the MFWD...you might even not need MFWD with chains ( use MFWD less with chains....frequently, not at all). I use 4 link ladder type on turfs, but they are bumpier riding then 2 link ladder types.

You can add hydraulic angle to a rear blade. Others on TBN have done it...but I'd try a season or two before I spent money on that. You may find out you don't need to angle the blade much.

All that said, I'd still lean toward that BXpanded front blade first.

 

[JD755]

I went a great number of years with this tractor never using chains. The key was never to drive through where I had not already plowed. With the front blade that was no problem. Same with using the rear blade while driving in reverse. When I decided to use the rear blade while in forward motion I knew I needed chains. They are necessary for that mode and have really done well for me.

When I had the front blade the hydraulic control was nice. When I went to the rear blade I thought I would really miss that. Turns out you just develop a plow pattern where you never need to adjust the blade from one setting. At the most you may need to change the direction one time while plowing. All just a matter of thinking ahead and developing a routine.

You will find many threads here about using chains on the front tires. General opinion seems to be they can provide too much of the wrong kind of load on the front gears and cause damage. Also, concerns about using a rear blade in the reverse push mode may damage the three point which is designed to pull instead of push. I used reverse for many years but was always very careful about it.

I do use the bucket for for cleanup in some areas and find it makes a nice combination with the rear blade.

 

[JD755]

Maybe a rear blade is the way to go, then? Sure would be nice to not have to remove the loader. Then again... the easy removal of this loader is the primary reason I bought this machine. I had an offer to buy a 750 with similar hours in better shape with a bigger loader, backhoe, and brush hog (not needed) for the same price as this 855. The 750 had a Johnson loader, which was not removeable.

The issue on the loader on my tractor was not the removal of it. With the 70 loader that only takes about a minute. Much faster than the older 52 loader. The changeover to a front blade also required the removal of several heavy brackets and large bolts used for mounting the loader. Then it required installing a different set of several heavy brackets and bolts required to install the blade. Really a waste of time on those years when we never got enough snow to bother plowing, and hardly worth it on the heavier snow years.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks, guys. I looked at the BXpanded system. Very interesting concept. Not sure how that blade rig hangs onto the bucket with the blade angled, but I guess it must work.

Here's my reservations on each.

BXpanded system:
- no hydraulic left right will likely get old FAST!
- giving up use of loader, unless you remove and reinstall it
- $985 with skid shoes. not a show-stopper, but roughly 3x the cost of a rear blade
- worried about tweaking my model 52 loader arms or mounts when blade is angled

Rear blade
- no hydraulic left right, but maybe less of an issue out back
- no skid shoes?!? i could weld on a set, but guessing there's a reason non are provided.

I do like how a rear blade can be used in combo with the loader, but do worry it might tear up my driveway, unless I add some skid shoes.

PS - The 52 loader goes on and off pretty easy. Two quick release catches on the cross beam in front of the foot plate, hydraulic up, install kick stands, hydraulic down, back out, disconnect hoses. Takes only a few minutes.

 

[RoyJackson]

Some rear blades have Skid Shoes as options. I think the Land Pride JD755 has are the optional skid shoes. The concave side of a rear blade can dig in (that's what they're designed for). Skid shoes, adding a non-metallic edge, adding a rounded edge (split pipe) are all things TBNers have done to prevent digging in.

As far as manual vs. hydraulic angle, I don't think you'd need to angle that often..of course, only you can determine that. Of course, if you did want hydraulic angling (on a plow or blade), you'll need the 3rd SCV added to your 855.

 

[WinterDeere]

Of course, if you did want hydraulic angling (on a plow or blade), you'll need the 3rd SCV added to your 855.

Well, that was initially my thinking behind going with front blade like the 380. Use the primary 2-axis control valve for up/down and left/right. I think that's still my plan long-term, to modify a rig such as a 380 to quick-attach to the loader attachment points. However, no time for that now... so I gotta just find the best solution to get me thru the next year or two.

 

[RoyJackson]

Well, that was initially my thinking behind going with front blade like the 380. Use the primary 2-axis control valve for up/down and left/right. I think that's still my plan long-term, to modify a rig such as a 380 to quick-attach to the loader attachment points. However, no time for that now... so I gotta just find the best solution to get me thru the next year or two.

And that's a good plan...take some time to determine what you really need.
I know your loader is QA...is your bucket QA too? Or, is it a bolt on bucket?

 

[WinterDeere]

I wonder if I could adapt one of these to my bucket mounts, if I'm going to use the loader for pushing. Either modify the blade mount to fit my loader bucket points, or modify the loader to use this quick-attach system?

72" Snow Plow Attachment Compact Tractor Blade Bobcat Kubota John Deere Montana | eBay

Hmm... just found another option. The possibilities seem endless!

http://www.quick-attach.com/attachments/frontendloaderconverter/100-030-000/