Tree Felling danger

retiredmgn · Oct 26, 2012

So I was going about my usual logging. I was cutting an ash bout 18" at the butt. The tree was leaner so I was confident of direction of fall. Before I finished the cut the tree "BLEW UP". Never seen anything like it. Once my razor sharp reflexes kicked in I fell backwards and planted my face in the ground.

There are several scenarios for 'widow makers'. Add one to the list.

joshuabardwell · Oct 26, 2012

That's something. It doesn't look like it was rotten in the middle or anything. Looks like it just split down the middle. Not sure how you could possibly have seen that coming. Yet another reason why leaners are dangerous. I wonder what a professional arborist or logger would/could have done differently.

Glad you didn't get hurt.

PS: I'm assuming you're not a pro, but if I'm wrong, I apologize, and I'd love to hear more from you on the topic. I drop a tree or two every now and then, but only the "easy" ones and I'm always interested in learning more about safety.

bcp · Oct 26, 2012

From:
Tree-Felling Safety - Autonopedia

brin · Oct 26, 2012

Always remember on leaners ( widow makers ) there is abundant stored energy in the leaning tree and the ones it is leaning against....hard to know what the reaction to making the cut will be....very scary situations...Think of huge rubber bands pulled tight and then you cut into the main one....Yikes ! Glad you are OK...

frischtr · Oct 26, 2012

That's what is called a 'barber-chair'. Certain species of tree with specific grain structures are especially prone to this, ash being one of them. Leaners are even more prone to this, because of the extra stress on the holding wood during the backcut.

See this thread for a good explanation and some tips: http://www.arboristsite.com/tree-care-videos/177328.htm

hazmat ranger · Oct 26, 2012

With a lean you need to make your face cut then plunge through to make your hinge (being careful of kickback and not leaving your hinge too thin) then cut from hinge to the back instead of from the back in.
You can also chain the tree above your cut to help prevent it from splitting out.

Treemonkey1000 · Oct 26, 2012

+1 on chaining or strapping above the cut. Look closely at the trunk for any sign of cracks or rot when working on something with a lean in it. Thank God you didn't catch that in the face. We would be reading your obituary instead.

retiredmgn · Oct 26, 2012

joshuabardwell said:
That's something. It doesn't look like it was rotten in the middle or anything. Looks like it just split down the middle. Not sure how you could possibly have seen that coming. Yet another reason why leaners are dangerous. I wonder what a professional arborist or logger would/could have done differently.

Glad you didn't get hurt.

PS: I'm assuming you're not a pro, but if I'm wrong, I apologize, and I'd love to hear more from you on the topic. I drop a tree or two every now and then, but only the "easy" ones and I'm always interested in learning more about safety.

No rot. Sound wood. Will burn well.
No, I'm not a pro. I put up 6 cords a year for the following year.
A pro would probably have seen such a thing before and put on his spikes and started from the top down. Or find someone else to do it.

retiredmgn · Oct 26, 2012

brin said:
Always remember on leaners ( widow makers ) there is abundant stored energy in the leaning tree and the ones it is leaning against....hard to know what the reaction to making the cut will be....very scary situations...Think of huge rubber bands pulled tight and then you cut into the main one....Yikes ! Glad you are OK...

Bob, the tree was a 'natural' leaner. It wasn't hung up on any thing. This was the initial cut. I've been known to leave cut leaners alone and let the next big wind bring them down for me. If it falls in the night I really don't care if anyone heard it. Sucker is down and I'm safe.

Treemonkey1000 · Oct 26, 2012

Not a lot of climbers will opt to go up a leaner if he has the option to cut it from the ground. At least I don't if there is a safe place to land it.

retiredmgn · Oct 26, 2012

frischtr said:
That's what is called a 'barber-chair'. Certain species of tree with specific grain structures are especially prone to this, ash being one of them. Leaners are even more prone to this, because of the extra stress on the holding wood during the backcut.

See this thread for a good explanation and some tips: http://www.arboristsite.com/tree-care-videos/177328.htm

Good vid. Exactly what happened. And I did hesitate on the back cut. It's a habit of mine. I pay alot of attention to the hinge to angle the fall to where I want it. It was when I took a moment to double check my final situation before sawing through. The decision was made for me.

brin · Oct 26, 2012

retiredmgn said:
Bob, the tree was a 'natural' leaner. It wasn't hung up on any thing. This was the initial cut. I've been known to leave cut leaners alone and let the next big wind bring them down for me. If it falls in the night I really don't care if anyone heard it. Sucker is down and I'm safe.

OK ..Nelson if it was a natural leaner I am surprised it reacted that way to your cut....sure am glad you came out OK...I am starting to slow down a little on my reflexes so I am super careful on the ones I choose to tackle...I wear a Tshirt that says...inside this old guy is a young guy saying what the heck happened....LOL

retiredmgn · Oct 26, 2012

brin said:
OK ..Nelson if it was a natural leaner I am surprised it reacted that way to your cut....sure am glad you came out OK...I am starting to slow down a little on my reflexes so I am super careful on the ones I choose to tackle...I wear a Tshirt that says...inside this old guy is a young guy saying what the heck happened....LOL

Yeah I was stretching it a bit with my comment of, "razor quick reflexes". It twernt pretty. It was elbows and a$$holes crawling away from that thing.
My usual rule is nothing more than 10" diameter but I really need some straight grain ash for fire starting. And it was there.

wrooster · Oct 26, 2012

frischtr said:
That's what is called a 'barber-chair'. Certain species of tree with specific grain structures are especially prone to this, ash being one of them. Leaners are even more prone to this, because of the extra stress on the holding wood during the backcut.

See this thread for a good explanation and some tips: http://www.arboristsite.com/tree-care-videos/177328.htm

^^^ This man knows what he is talking about.

Wrooster

brin · Oct 26, 2012

wrooster said:
^^^ This man knows what he is talking about.

Wrooster

Very good illustration....everyone should watch the video...I want to add this...I learned it the hard way years ago...When you go up to a tree to cut it down...look for your runway....that is the path you will take if things go wrong...really wrong and fast...be sure there are no obstacles ...no vines ( that is what tripped me up one time ) no holes or fallen limbs...be sure you have a clear escape path before cutting....

s219 · Oct 26, 2012

Yeah, a leaning tree is a barber-chair to-be. You need to be able to recognize that before even breaking out the saw, and plan your cuts accordingly. The "Coos Bay" cut is my favorite way to handle leaners.

This same condition can occur whenever the tree is loaded such that a strong shear is created. This can occur on a straight tree on a windy day, when the wind is loading the tree.

You got lucky man! People get killed from barber chairs. They will take your head clean off.

Stick895 · Oct 26, 2012

It also looked like the guy in the vid had his backcut at the same level as his undercut.

cqaigy2 · Oct 26, 2012

Yes those leaners store a lot of energy in the trunk. Then the back cut removed enough wood to allow the trunk to split.

bcjmmac · Oct 27, 2012

Timely thread. Plan on felling a few leaning poplar later this year as they are looking like they are starting to die.

arrow · Oct 27, 2012

s219 said:
Yeah, a leaning tree is a barber-chair to-be. You need to be able to recognize that before even breaking out the saw, and plan your cuts accordingly. The "Coos Bay" cut is my favorite way to handle leaners.

This same condition can occur whenever the tree is loaded such that a strong shear is created. This can occur on a straight tree on a windy day, when the wind is loading the tree.

You got lucky man! People get killed from barber chairs. They will take your head clean off.

RetiredM, this cut this poster is referring to is a relief cut on both sides of the tree parallel to the lean. They only go in a few inches on each side. Some taper them to the falling cut side but in my experience any relief you give to the tree stem will work. Also look to the canopy of a tree and see where its weighted the most. If you do not have to, leave trees alone on windy days. The key here is to zippity do-da the falling cut and you'll keep this stuff to a minimum. I like to make the relief cuts first and then notch the tree and then go right to the felling cut.