How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable

[PandDLong]

I've recently read through many threads on top-links - the options and advantages. I have pulled together what I read into this single new thread and I am looking for more data - I hope it becomes a useful reference for those considering their options and a source of ideas for those with a hydraulic top-link.

I see 3 basic ways in which a top-link is used:

Fixed - the length is set and the intent is to have it stay at that length when using the attachment. This is the usage of the mechanical screw-type top-link. With hydraulics - a top-link with double-pilot check valves (DPCV) would work the best, a regular cylinder (without DPCV) will have some drift over time but reportedly it is minor.

Float - the length changes based upon the push-pull of the attachment during usage. A mechanical top-link can't float but operators can mimic a float in these situations by replacing the top-link with a chain. With hydraulics, a valve with a float position and a top-link cylinder without DPCV are required.

Adjustable - the length is adjusted during usage by the operator in the seat. This requires a hydraulic top-link (or a very creative hand-crank).


What follows is a list of attachments and how the top-link could best be used. Of course, practically all attachments can be used with a fixed top-link as that is the default standard typically supplied with every tractor -- the methods of usage listed below provide additional advantanges for the situation. (Of course this all just opinion).

Blade (Cutting Edge) Fixed
Blade (Back Side) Float
Boom Pole Adjustable
Bush-Hog Float
Carry-All Adjustable
Disc Harrow Float
Mower Float
Pallet Forks Adjustable
Rototiller Fixed
Snow Blower (Reg.) Fixed
Snow Blower (Drifts) Adjustable

In addition, for hook-up, Float is useful.

That's all I remember from my reading, What about:

Grader/Scaper
Land Plane
Middle-Buster
Rake
Sub-soiler
???
???

How do you use your top-link? What do you recommend against? Why and why not.

 

[jeff9366]

I am experimenting with a Category-1 Hydraulink.

HydrauLink - a self-contained air over hydraulic top link

As of 12/10/2012: 473 posts, lots of bitching, not many operating experiences.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/174498-hydraulink-self-contained-air-over.html


Used with my 60"/630 pound Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade Hydraulink is an asset. The piston works in-and-out 1"-2" reducing hobby-horsing; hence frequency of minor top link adjustments. And, yes, theoretically it is adjustable from the tractor seat, however my Hydraulink, manufactured in China, does not maintain the control valve wheel in the "up" position. It is usually works "down" by gravity. "Down" is notably inconvenient.

Used with my 60"/323 pound King Kutter Rotary Harrow, Hydraulink is NOT as good as the factory Kubota screw top link. The Cat-1 Hydraulink is just a bit longer than the Kubota link, because the Hydraulink piston will not screw into the body for about the final 3/4". This translates into a considerable reduction in useful adjustment range on the harrow, over its 60" diameter. With the longer Hydraulink I cannot quite get the Rotary Harrow flat, the rear is often lower than I want and I cannot adjust the front lower than the rear....so I usually use the Kubota factory screw top link with the Rotary Harrow, which provides full range of adjustment. With a Rotary Harrow top link length is often critical to the task, however top link is NOT adjusted frequently.

(( It is easy to switch top links, although inconvenient. ))

I have not used Hydraulink with my King Kutter 48" rotary mower, yet. I expect the Hydraulink will be a good shock absorber.

Neutral when supporting Wallenstein BX42 PTO chipper which is flat on the ground, on its skids, before the PTO is engaged. Transporting chipper on the 3-Pt. is a "dumb" top link application.

When I have more experience I will post a thorough Hydraulink review.

My tentative conclusion is that for what this device costs, $250, and its imperfect factory execution, I should have put the money toward an "regular" hydraulic top link. Tractor has one Kubota (optional) hydraulic port at the rear.

Tractor is a Kubota B3300SU; 33-hp/1,800 pounds.

 

[phiferpharm]

I went from Standard screw-style top link to Hydraulink to Fit Rite hydraulic from Brian (MtnViewRanch). The Screw type is a pain in the rear, the Hydraulink was okay, but not worth the money.

For everything from ease of attaching implements to carrying my back work platform level, and use of my implements - Rake, Box Blade, Scraper, the hydraulic top link is worth it's cost.

 

[JerryG]

I have used a double-pilot check valves cylinder for several hundred hours. In the past have used regular top link as well as non-DPCV cylinders. I much prefer the DPCV cylinder for everything except my rotary cutter. I use a chain on the rotary cutter to allow the rough terrain without damaging the top link. With a DPCV, you know without a thought that adjustments will stay the way you put them.

 

[mikehaugen]

On my two mowers(woods rotary and woods finish), it is built into the linkage to "float". I have a fixed screw-type top link and the mower will still float. I assumed that they all did this, but reading your posts it seems that is not the case. I would think that a dpcv cylinder would work ok for them, right? I have been tossing around the idea of adding auxillary ports to the tractor and was kind of undecided about the cylinder. I am leaning more towards the dpcv cylinder. I may even go with the top n tilt kit from mtviewranch, though I can't remember what kind of cylinder he offers- perhaps either.

Maybe a non-dpcv cylinder with a valve with float position would be advantageous? Besides a mower, is there another reason to want to float? I guess in all reality, getting the hydraulics back there is most of the battle. I can always change my mind in the future and it's only a matter of getting a new cylinder.

 

[Guesseral]

I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one!:drink: Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!:confused3:

 

[sweettractors]

I've recently read through many threads on top-links - the options and advantages. I have pulled together what I read into this single new thread and I am looking for more data - I hope it becomes a useful reference for those considering their options and a source of ideas for those with a hydraulic top-link.

I see 3 basic ways in which a top-link is used:

Fixed - the length is set and the intent is to have it stay at that length when using the attachment. This is the usage of the mechanical screw-type top-link. With hydraulics - a top-link with double-pilot check valves (DPCV) would work the best, a regular cylinder (without DPCV) will have some drift over time but reportedly it is minor.

Float - the length changes based upon the push-pull of the attachment during usage. A mechanical top-link can't float but operators can mimic a float in these situations by replacing the top-link with a chain. With hydraulics, a valve with a float position and a top-link cylinder without DPCV are required.

Adjustable - the length is adjusted during usage by the operator in the seat. This requires a hydraulic top-link (or a very creative hand-crank).


What follows is a list of attachments and how the top-link could best be used. Of course, practically all attachments can be used with a fixed top-link as that is the default standard typically supplied with every tractor -- the methods of usage listed below provide additional advantanges for the situation. (Of course this all just opinion).

Blade (Cutting Edge) Fixed
Blade (Back Side) Float
Boom Pole Adjustable
Bush-Hog Float
Carry-All Adjustable
Disc Harrow Float
Mower Float
Pallet Forks Adjustable
Rototiller Fixed
Snow Blower (Reg.) Fixed
Snow Blower (Drifts) Adjustable

In addition, for hook-up, Float is useful.

That's all I remember from my reading, What about:

Grader/Scaper
Land Plane
Middle-Buster
Rake
Sub-soiler
???
???

How do you use your top-link? What do you recommend against? Why and why not.

When in the field working over the last 50+ yrs, dozens of times a fixed top link has kept my tractor front end on the ground while going up a steep hill that I should not have been on anyway, thus preventing several farm accidents. I am not a fan of flexible unless using one with a light tool on level ground and still, If you hang the front and bottom side of that 3 point implement, the implement may be coming up into your back. Yes, I have done that also. LOL. Ken Sweet

 

[jeff9366]

Please explain double-pilot check valve cylinder.

Animal, vegetable or mineral?

I try to get smarter about tractor stuff each day.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one!:drink: Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!:confused3:

When you say that there is some movement, just how much is "some" ?

 

[94BULLITT]

I am not a fan of flexible unless using one with a light tool on level ground and still, If you hang the front and bottom side of that 3 point implement, the implement may be coming up into your back. Yes, I have done that also. LOL. Ken Sweet

I agree a chain for a toplink is dangerous.

 

[Cigar Face]

I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one!:drink: Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!:confused3:

Maybe it depends on the cylinder you buy. Myself and many others have a fit rite hyrdraulic top link and have no movement or drift whatsoever. There is no check valve on these cyldiners from what i understand either

 

[mikehaugen]

I am thinking that if there is drifting of the cylinder it comes more from the valve than anything. If the piston seal on the cylinder bled by then a check valve would not help. The check valves will only work make up for a bad valve or leaking hose/coupler.

 

[Guesseral]

When you say that there is some movement, just how much is "some" ?

If you hit a rock with a plow or a disk or any ground engagment piece of equipment the will come up with a hard center link it only can come up as far as the 3PT will allow, with the floating center link(chain) the entire impliment could come up and hit the operator. This is only my opinion I have seem these items jump up and I would never use a floating type of center arm because that is my choice. Others do and that is there choice, everyone does what they do.

 

[Guesseral]

If you hit a rock with a plow or a disk or any ground engagment piece of equipment the will come up with a hard center link it only can come up as far as the 3PT will allow, with the floating center link(chain) the entire impliment could come up and hit the operator. This is only my opinion I have seem these items jump up and I would never use a floating type of center arm because that is my choice. Others do and that is there choice, everyone does what they do.

Oops wrong movement. :thumbdown:

New answer not much very little acturally.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Oops wrong movement. :thumbdown:

New answer not much very little acturally.

Thanks for correcting, saved me a bunch of typing. :laughing: As far as the hydraulic ram moving in and out as you move along and are working the implement, I would say 1/8"-3/16" is normal. What that movement is from, is the expansion of the hoses at every shock load. If a person has a DPOCV, it does not move at all.

So if a person does not want to have use of the float function and that 1/8"-3/16" movement bothers them, then they should consider getting a link that has a check valve.

 

[john_bud]

The question is interesting, but mute. The valves for top&tilt don't contain a float function. There are also very few times when I would even want a randomly changing top link length. Mowing is about the only thing and they ALREADY have a flexible top link connection point. Implements that operate best with a "float" top connection will come with some type of swinging link, so what's the point?


The real Q is do you want to pay for the luxury of being able to sit in the seat and make tuning adjustments to the 3pt implement? The cost of the valving, plumbing, mounting and cylinders is going to be 500-2000 depending on DIY self source or factory /dealer installed. I don't have them, but would like them -- can't afford it though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The question is interesting, but mute. The valves for top&tilt don't contain a float function. There are also very few times when I would even want a randomly changing top link length. Mowing is about the only thing and they ALREADY have a flexible top link connection point. Implements that operate best with a "float" top connection will come with some type of swinging link, so what's the point?


The real Q is do you want to pay for the luxury of being able to sit in the seat and make tuning adjustments to the 3pt implement? The cost of the valving, plumbing, mounting and cylinders is going to be 500-2000 depending on DIY self source or factory /dealer installed. I don't have them, but would like them -- can't afford it though.

Why do you say that the remote valves don't have float? :confused3: Some tractors may not have that option, but many do. I have 7 rear remotes between 2 tractors, they all have the float option. Many if not all of the manufacturers at least offer the float function valves as an option if it is not already std on many of their models. I know for a fact that Kioti, Kubota, JD and Mahindra have them either as std equipment or as an option. I have had customers that have said that the articulating bracket mount that you mentioned for mowing was not enough for their purposes. So while none of this may apply to your conditions, believe me when I say that it does for many many others.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for correcting, saved me a bunch of typing. :laughing: As far as the hydraulic ram moving in and out as you move along and are working the implement, I would say 1/8"-3/16" is normal. What that movement is from, is the expansion of the hoses at every shock load. If a person has a DPOCV, it does not move at all.

So if a person does not want to have use of the float function and that 1/8"-3/16" movement bothers them, then they should consider getting a link that has a check valve.

gotta be some long hoses ... or air in em. :confused3:

 

[john_bud]

Why do you say that the remote valves don't have float? :confused3: Some tractors may not have that option, but many do. I have 7 rear remotes between 2 tractors, they all have the float option. Many if not all of the manufacturers at least offer the float function valves as an option if it is not already std on many of their models. I know for a fact that Kioti, Kubota, JD and Mahindra have them either as std equipment or as an option. I have had customers that have said that the articulating bracket mount that you mentioned for mowing was not enough for their purposes. So while none of this may apply to your conditions, believe me when I say that it does for many many others.

I guess because none of the ones I've used has ever had float on the rear outlets, nor have I seen one on any other machine (or even heard of one). Must not be a popular option here?

 

[Gator6x4]

Please explain double-pilot check valve cylinder.

Animal, vegetable or mineral?

I try to get smarter about tractor stuff each day.

Basically a double-pilot check valve keeps a hydraulic cylinder from contracting or expanding. When used on top and side link hydraulic cylinders one can position an implement one time and it will remain at the initial settings, just link the fixed manual top and side links. Hydraulic cylinders used in a top-and-tilt system without the double-pilot-check valve will drift and change while in use requiring constant or frequent adjustments. The red hydraulic cylinder in the picture on this haytools.com web page is equipped with a double-pilot-check valve.Hydraulic top links, Top-N-Tilt, hyd. Side link cylinders