Ignition switch is junk on my 2615

[Blue_Sky]

Wyld Bill, I have a 3015 that has been dead for a few days. Working fine lugging firewood, then wouldn't start. Nothing. Found the 60amp inline fuse blown. After getting new fuse at NAPA ($2.85), dealer wanted $22, i have hazards, but it blows the fuse when i turn the key to the glow plug. I put another fuse in and turned the key all the way and the starter cranked a few times before the fuse blew again. I looked at all harnesses, all looks good. Do you think it could be the ignition switch? I figure it is either the switch or glow plugs or something after the switch. If these switches are junk, it would make sense that could be it. Thanks for any input.

Did you ever get this fixed?

 

[Wyld Bill]

Well here we go AGAIN! Its 15degrees out, its a snow storm, tractor has worked fine all year, go to start it,.....NOTHING!
Troubleshoot it. Failed ignition switch AGAIN!
Just got home from town, had to go find an ignition switch on a Sunday night. Not a happy camper!

 

[Wyld Bill]

So I bought a universal ignition switch and some washers to make it fit the existing hole in the dash. I bought it at Tractor Supply for less than $20. Well see how long this one lasts.

 

[Wyld Bill]

By the way I only have about 50 hours on the last OEM ignition switch. DO NOT BUY A MAHINDRA/CUB CADET IGNITION SWITCH FOR YOUR TRACTOR!

 

[DavesTractor]

Wyld Bill, can you figure out why they are failing? Like I have said before, we have sold literally hundreds of the 2615/2816 and the 2015/2216 and they all take that switch. I have sold maybe one or two switches. I carry one in stock, and it is covered in dust. So I believe you entirely, but we have something contributing to the failure I'd guess. Not a bad idea to use a universal switch.

 

[Wyld Bill]

Yeah I sure do. I dissected the first one that failed. I have pictures of it somewhere. Basically there is a plastic shaft that run down through the center of the switch. Copper plates or copper plated metal plates have a hole in the center of them for the plastic shaft to go though. From vibrations and what not the plates wear into the plastic shaft creating a groove. Then instead of the plates making good contact they are stuck in the grove and you have no ignition power.

 

[DavesTractor]

Yeah I sure do. I dissected the first one that failed. I have pictures of it somewhere. Basically there is a plastic shaft that run down through the center of the switch. Copper plates or copper plated metal plates have a hole in the center of them for the plastic shaft to go though. From vibrations and what not the plates wear into the plastic shaft creating a groove. Then instead of the plates making good contact they are stuck in the grove and you have no ignition power.

I appreciate the good description. That would sound like a switch with a bazillion starts or a very old switch, which obviously isn't the case on your rig. Do you have extra lights wired into the system or anything of that nature that could be putting an extra load on the switch which might heat things up inside the switch and cause the plastic post to get soft or something? I'm just curious since we see this so rarely and have sold so many of them. We do not have much cold weather, but even so I can't see where that relates to what you saw in the first failure. If you take the second switch apart, let us know what you find, if you haven't already tossed it. Thanks!

 

[johnsonauto]

I have to say I have had the same experience as Dave. We dont see switch problems with these ignition switches. The "15" series tractors were our biggest selling tractor models at the time and have yet to replace a switch on one yet. My personal 3015 sits outside in the elements and no problems to this day, knock on wood!

MAHINDRA PARTS ONLINE

 

[DavesTractor]

Wyld Bill, since you are blowing snow, do you have a hydraulic or electric chute rotator? If electric, is it totally isolated from the switch somehow? Are you using relays? Something out of the ordinary is happening here, even if we aren't smart enough to figure it out. Meanwhile, use cheap switches and carry a spare.

 

[DavesTractor]

Wyld, I just did a little search and found this:

So here's the set up I'm running.
2006(?) Mahindra 2615 HST.
1" wheel spacers for 2-link tire chains
Loaded rear tires
Kats engine coolant heater
Origonal Cab Co. soft cab kit
6 Halogen flood lights
70" Provonost snowblower with electric chute rotator & adj. skids added.
Dome light, heater, & cup holder in the cab

So we have 6 extra lights, electric chute rotator, heater, etc. Obviously you are a sharp guy, but I just think that somehow the extra electrical loads are causing the switch to be used beyond it's designed duty cycle? Not sure, just guessing. BTW, sounds like a nice setup!