Trailer Mover

[ToolBoxTavern]

This seems to be a very useful tool and I believe will be even more useful in the future. We wanted a trailer mover, but for a $150+ tax and shipping I couldnt see buying one. So I built one.

I came up with some dimensions I thought would be suitable for the project and got started. All thou I have had compliments on it, I believe because of the paint, I still built it keeping in mind function over looks. I did add extra bracing, D rings, hooks, and a top receiver tube. That makes it more useful and did make the cost go up, but still under a $150 and you still will not find anything close to it with the possible functions that this piece of equipment will have.

I think it looks good on the 4wd 4025 Mahindra.

 

[imgone52]

:thumbsup: Looks like you are ready for just about any job. Nice work!

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

:thumbsup: Looks like you are ready for just about any job. Nice work!

Thanx.

 

[6011Artist]

Toolbox, good looking hitch you built. The first one I ever saw I built 20 yrs ago, had never seen one but used an old reciever hitch taken off of a trade in truck, just cut it down and added the riser for the top link plus the pins on each end. I put my first one on an 80 HP Belarus and moved a 12 X 60 MH across a field with it, it's built sturdy. I have 3 total.

You did well but you're just getting started if you like my ideas. It is my most used piece of equipment.

I started out just moving trailers with it but needed a section harrow and instead of building the whole thing and rebuilding the 3ph part specifically for that rake I got a piece of 2 in tubing and slid it in my trailer mover and then built the section harrow off of it. Instead of using the International 140 style 1 point hitch I use the trailer mover style 1 point hitch.

I have built 4 different style rakes that inserts into my hitch, 2 single lay off plows/middle busters, converted a mule drawn middle buster by cutting the plow off and welding a piece of 2" tubing to insert into my hitch, quick and easy and use the existing hitch for the hook-up.

I have 2 factory boom poles but also made 2 more that insert into my hitch that will handle most things and they are quick and easier to install than dropping the hitch and installing the factory boom pole. I used a short piece of tubing and then welded another piece on pointed up but angled back somewhat. Got one that is 4-5 ft tall and one 18" tall. The short one works better for pulling downed trees than a factory boom pole.

I took an old mule drawn "weeder" and used the steel parts to build a rear cultivator. It already had spread out "C" tines, I seperated it and built a 2" tubing frame, even made it to adjust out or in as my plants grow, very neat and handy cultivator, gotten lots of compliments off of it. It too plugs into the trailer mover.

Just today I built a wheel lift for my lawn mowers and cub cadets that inserts into that hitch. If one breaks down I can go get it by myself and get it in my shop easily.

I have a fence wire spool that plugs into my hitch. I built that one extending out far enough it also can be worked off of my pickup or tractor.

I use one of my middle buster type plows with a medium shovel mounted on it to plow a ditch for water or electric lines and then clean out the loose dirt with a shovel. I am going to build one with 1 tooth out of a boxblade and mount a piece of PVC elbow to the back and let my hitch install wiring in the ditch and never doing any shovel work to get it down except for the ends up against a pole or building where I can't get that close.

Keep in mind, anytime you need to build something to work off the rear of your tractor, you already have the 3ph for it welded up, just insert a piece of tubing and start welding to build all sorts of things.

I work one of those slide in carriers in the hitch if I need to carry buckets or small items. Thinking about building a set of pallet forks to work off my hitch also.

Great hitch you've got. Now you can get creative and build all sorts of attachments to use in that hitch.

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Toolbox, good looking hitch you built. The first one I ever saw I built 20 yrs ago, had never seen one but used an old reciever hitch taken off of a trade in truck, just cut it down and added the riser for the top link plus the pins on each end. I put my first one on an 80 HP Belarus and moved a 12 X 60 MH across a field with it, it's built sturdy. I have 3 total.

You did well but you're just getting started if you like my ideas. It is my most used piece of equipment.

I started out just moving trailers with it but needed a section harrow and instead of building the whole thing and rebuilding the 3ph part specifically for that rake I got a piece of 2 in tubing and slid it in my trailer mover and then built the section harrow off of it. Instead of using the International 140 style 1 point hitch I use the trailer mover style 1 point hitch.

I have built 4 different style rakes that inserts into my hitch, 2 single lay off plows/middle busters, converted a mule drawn middle buster by cutting the plow off and welding a piece of 2" tubing to insert into my hitch, quick and easy and use the existing hitch for the hook-up.

I have 2 factory boom poles but also made 2 more that insert into my hitch that will handle most things and they are quick and easier to install than dropping the hitch and installing the factory boom pole. I used a short piece of tubing and then welded another piece on pointed up but angled back somewhat. Got one that is 4-5 ft tall and one 18" tall. The short one works better for pulling downed trees than a factory boom pole.

I took an old mule drawn "weeder" and used the steel parts to build a rear cultivator. It already had spread out "C" tines, I seperated it and built a 2" tubing frame, even made it to adjust out or in as my plants grow, very neat and handy cultivator, gotten lots of compliments off of it. It too plugs into the trailer mover.

Just today I built a wheel lift for my lawn mowers and cub cadets that inserts into that hitch. If one breaks down I can go get it by myself and get it in my shop easily.

I have a fence wire spool that plugs into my hitch. I built that one extending out far enough it also can be worked off of my pickup or tractor.

I use one of my middle buster type plows with a medium shovel mounted on it to plow a ditch for water or electric lines and then clean out the loose dirt with a shovel. I am going to build one with 1 tooth out of a boxblade and mount a piece of PVC elbow to the back and let my hitch install wiring in the ditch and never doing any shovel work to get it down except for the ends up against a pole or building where I can't get that close.

Keep in mind, anytime you need to build something to work off the rear of your tractor, you already have the 3ph for it welded up, just insert a piece of tubing and start welding to build all sorts of things.

I work one of those slide in carriers in the hitch if I need to carry buckets or small items. Thinking about building a set of pallet forks to work off my hitch also.

Great hitch you've got. Now you can get creative and build all sorts of attachments to use in that hitch.

WOW! I would love to see pictures of all of your builds.

 

[duroc]

This seems to be a very useful tool and I believe will be even more useful in the future. We wanted a trailer mover, but for a $150+ tax and shipping I couldnt see buying one. So I built one.

I came up with some dimensions I thought would be suitable for the project and got started. All thou I have had compliments on it, I believe because of the paint, I still built it keeping in mind function over looks. I did add extra bracing, D rings, hooks, and a top receiver tube.

Nice job! One thing I would suggest adding is a limit chain. If the trailer happens to be rear-heavy or the tongue lifts going down hill, or even a quick stop, the trailer tongue can lift the 3pt to a dangerous degree. Here's a picture of what I'm referring to... King Kutter 3-point Trailer Mover. Attach the limit chain to the draw bar.
I've had my trailer tongue lift a couple of times and was glad I had the limit chain. You may never experience those situations, but I thought you might be interested any way. Again... nice job!

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Nice job! One thing I would suggest adding is a limit chain. If the trailer happens to be rear-heavy or the tongue lifts going down hill, or even a quick stop, the trailer tongue can lift the 3pt to a dangerous degree. Here's a picture of what I'm referring to... King Kutter 3-point Trailer Mover. Attach the limit chain to the draw bar.
I've had my trailer tongue lift a couple of times and was glad I had the limit chain. You may never experience those situations, but I thought you might be interested any way. Again... nice job!

Now you tell me.....LOL. Thanx. I will definitely get something done bout that if I remember. Majority of my property is flat and if I was gonna haul long distance I would hook to the draw bar.

 

[aczlan]

Just today I built a wheel lift for my lawn mowers and cub cadets that inserts into that hitch. If one breaks down I can go get it by myself and get it in my shop easily.

Pictures? Sounds interesting and could be useful for us.

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[jones6780]

For a bumper pull trailer I prefer to use a hitch on the front of the tractor. Makes backing the trailer into a shed or barn a lot easier.

Russell

 

[aczlan]

For a bumper pull trailer I prefer to use a hitch on the front of the tractor. Makes backing the trailer into a shed or barn a lot easier.

Our RTV has a front hitch and it is the cats meow for backing up a haywagon type trailer (with a steer axle).

Aaron Z

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Check out the boom pole we made to go with it.

Boom Pole post/thread

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

TBT
You or someone mentioned a restraining chain on the trailer mover to keep the 3pt arms from being pushed too high up.
I also built that into my home made mover. I have read where people have had 3pt systems broken somehow with too many hard pushed beyond the top of the normal movement.

I also am working on a (5' long) boom pole accessory for my hitch. I already have a short (telescope 1-2') boom pole that works well for many things.
Especially skidding logs.

Good luck

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

TBT
You or someone mentioned a restraining chain on the trailer mover to keep the 3pt arms from being pushed too high up.
I also built that into my home made mover. I have read where people have had 3pt systems broken somehow with too many hard pushed beyond the top of the normal movement.

I also am working on a (5' long) boom pole accessory for my hitch. I already have a short (telescope 1-2') boom pole that works well for many things.
Especially skidding logs.

Good luck

I need to add that chain in a hurry, but probably wont get to it till the weekend.

My boom pole is 7ft long.

 

[6011Artist]

aczlan, no pics of the wheel lift but all I did was slide a piece of 2" tubing into my hitch, already drilled for the pin, used a piece about 10" long. I then cut 2 pieces of tubing 48" long and 2 pieces of 2" channel 12 in long. I built a 12 X 48 rectangle and then added the hitch piece midway on the 48 in side. I did cut another piece of tubing to tie the front and back runs together.

Just think of it as a short piece of tubing coming out of the hitch and a 12 X 48 rectangle welded to the stub out piece. I can back up to a lawn mower or garden tractor and let the hitch/wheel lift sit on the ground, roll the mower across the back piece of tubing and then pick it up like a wrecker does.

I measured 4 different mowers, cub cadets, 4 wheeler to determine how wide I need this thing, 48", and them drilled holes into the underside of my tubing so I can take 2 short light duty 1" rachet straps and tie the tires down, just like a wrecker does a car.

I did not build a swivel on my wheel lift. I have lots of room and can make wide turns to get around that. I also thought that if I did need a swivel I could add it to the front of what is there now so it swivels in my turns. But it won't be used a lot, was a quick weld up job to move a Pa Panzer out of my shop and a cub cadet into my shop. And to go retrieve the lawn mower if need when it's too far away to push.

If it was a daily used tool I'd definately put a swivel in it. I wanted it as short as possible to use on my cub cadet, it has a hand operated lift on it and by keeping it short I think I can lift a mower or garden tractor by hand. If it swiveled it would have to be longer to keep it off of the rear tires of the pulling tractor when turning. The longer the rig, the more it takes to lift it.

I haven't used it yet. I may see where the swivel has to be added but I think it should work fine like it is, just do long sweeping turns.

If I do need a swivel I'll use two spring hanger brackets used on mobile home frames. I already have them. I use them a lot in building things using 2" tubing where I pin them together or swivel. Already made and about a buck each. I can add length to the whole thing and let the short existing piece that goes into the hitch be where the swivel attaches and add another piece of tubing to go into the hitch.

 

[MasseyWV]

Looks good. :thumbsup:

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Thanx

 

[aczlan]

aczlan, no pics of the wheel lift but all I did was slide a piece of 2" tubing into my hitch, already drilled for the pin, used a piece about 10" long. I then cut 2 pieces of tubing 48" long and 2 pieces of 2" channel 12 in long. I built a 12 X 48 rectangle and then added the hitch piece midway on the 48 in side. I did cut another piece of tubing to tie the front and back runs together.

Just think of it as a short piece of tubing coming out of the hitch and a 12 X 48 rectangle welded to the stub out piece. I can back up to a lawn mower or garden tractor and let the hitch/wheel lift sit on the ground, roll the mower across the back piece of tubing and then pick it up like a wrecker does.

Thanks, I have some pieces of a treadmill frame floating around that might work well for such a project. Thinking that if I unlocked the stabilizer bars to let the trailer mover swing back and forth that could help a little to avoid the need for a pivot.

Aaron Z

 

[Oliver1655]

I like the dual receiver tubes. They will be handy attachment points for future additions. To add to ToolBarn's list, a winch bolted to a plate-welded to a 2" tube is mighty handy.

 

[6011Artist]

Oliver, I have a heavy duty boat winch with a nylon strap instead of cable mounted on it. I use it to winch tractors or cars on my car hauling trailer. I welded a piece of tubing with a hitch sleeve pointing straight up on the tongue of my trailer and then built another piece of tubing plated for the winch to bolt on to. If I need my winch, I slide it in the reese hitch mounted on the front. If not, it's stored inside so my strap won't rot. So later on I welded the same type rig on 2 other trailers, so the same winch gets stored inside or moved from one trailer to the other. By having 2 hitch tubes on the mover one could mount a wench in the top tube to use to load things as well.

Aaron, to keep my post simple I said I built my rig out of tubing but it is actually made out of 2" pallet rack bars, like you see in Home Depot. It is tubing but not square. I have lots of it and use it when I can get away with it. I had 2" tubing on hand but elected to save it for when it was really needed. Today I am building an overhead swing crane to use in my boat shed to change out a motor. I'm using a piece of 5 x 2 (pallet rack bar) to make the swing arm. I bought a bunch of that stuff when scrap was only bringing 1.5 cents a lb. The scrap buyers wouldn't haul it if you gave it to them for free, you had to carry it to them. So I am definately a "use what you already got" type of guy.