3 pt single shank sub-soilers

PhilY · Feb 28, 2013

I have a Fred Cain ripper...it's a nice unit. Comparing it to the TSC subsoiler, it is much larger. From what I remember about the TSC ones, they would only go about 14" which is in-line with what sixdogs was saying. The FC does go the full 18", and I can pull it with my 3540 pretty easily.

I would just stress, go slow and make sure everything with the stabilizer arms are really tight. I was also having issues with shearing the grade 3 bolt it came with. With as deep as it goes, there is a lot of torque on it. Sheared a few of these in just a couple of minutes. lots or roots in the yard, so I stuck a g5 in there. Have sheared one of these as well. Probably would use a g4 myself if I could find one.

I do wish it had a fixed top point to attach to but with as tall as it is, the pivoting this allows is needed. Even completely up it only clears the ground by less than 6".

Oh and the reason I was saying keep the stabilizer arms tight is I grazed something one time and caused myself some extra work. Put the pin for the stabilizer in one of the slots in it rather than a hole...it let it get just a few inches of center and I slightly hockey sticked the top arm where it goes over the main shank on the FC when I grazed a big rock. No worries though...put it between a couple of logs on the splitter and straightened it right up.

plowindeeper · Feb 28, 2013

(\Dearborn 10-89 Subsoiler - Owner's Manual[/url])

Thanks for that now I don't know whether I bought a dearborn or a fred-cain hahahaha

whirly · Mar 1, 2013

I bought a well used Burch SS subsoiler last year. It looks and works like a Fred Cain but is much beefier. It is bolted to a CAT I drawbar with a CAT II toplink hole. The first time I hooked it up it dove right down to within a couple of inches of the drawbar (about 20") and did just what it's intended to do. I also use it to pop fairly large rocks (up to about 2' across).

Here it is propped up against my PHD.

Paid $295 which is about what you can get a Fred Cain for.

Botabill · Mar 1, 2013

How big an area do you want to sub soil?

spruce Deere · Mar 1, 2013

Area size varies. Such as in the tree farm that is 20+ acres, I would eventually like to sub the hole thing but it is in 7 to 8 foot rows. Then there are the garden patches from a 16x20 foot to pernt near 1/2 acres worth

If everything was an open field, I would have the ol' man rip everything with his 3 shank, makes his NH 7740 mfwd grunt abit when all are dug in sub-soiler, thats poetry in motion

Spindifferent · Mar 1, 2013

Rock-solid:

Agriculture Subsoilers - Monroe Tufline

econometrics · Mar 1, 2013

Spindifferent said:
Rock-solid:

Agriculture Subsoilers - Monroe Tufline

That's a sweet attachment right there! :thumbsup:

spruce Deere · Mar 1, 2013

Has a lot of the same features as sixdogs rebuilt sub-soiler, looks just a little bigger and HEAVY DUTY.

mikehaugen · Mar 1, 2013

econometrics said:
That's a sweet attachment right there! :thumbsup:

a 39hp 2wd should pull the 3 shank, right?:laughing:

Kessler Farms · Mar 1, 2013

It'll take some grunt to pull the Tufline, even the single shank. I pull the two shank with my 7610S NH and the diff locked, and can still lose traction in the right ground. It also takes a tall tractor to get it off the ground.

Sent from my Milestone X2 using TractorByNet

spruce Deere · Mar 4, 2013

O.K folks, here is the plan..... I bought a nice and heavy 1 thick x 4 wide steel strap 42 inches long for a subsoiler shank, price-$34.25.... The rest of the material will be of scrap metal that I have accumulated. Gunna be a cross kinda looking thing between the frontier and all the county line/kk/LS/ tarter things.

It will be able to go 24" deep, no shear pins, built heavy and ugly and I doubt It will ever pretzel..... If the mood strikes me, I just might paint it JD green when finished cause I have a little left.

Yes I will TRY for some pics, I'm generally not good with that when in the heat of a build, but I will try

mikehaugen · Mar 5, 2013

I have considered making one myself as well, we have enough scrap steel here at work I could get it done pretty easily. I was wondering about the 1" steel too, but was concerned it might cause more resistance over the 3/4" that I usually see. I don't think it would be a huge deal, and probably worth it for the added strength and weight (it will be that much more fun to wrestle while hooking it up

)

Spindifferent · Mar 5, 2013

Kessler Farms said:
It'll take some grunt to pull the Tufline, even the single shank. I pull the two shank with my 7610S NH and the diff locked, and can still lose traction in the right ground.

Very true!

I have a JD 3520 (37hp, around 3700lbs with FEL) and pull the Tufline 24" single shank with lots of effort. I've read that the curved shape of the Tufline sub actually makes it easier to pull through the soil. I can only pull it at max depth in MFWD, and only when the soil condition is optimal. I need more weight.

- Spindifferent

Spindifferent · Mar 5, 2013

spruce Deere said:
It will be able to go 24" deep, no shear pins, built heavy and ugly and I doubt It will ever pretzel..... If the mood strikes me, I just might paint it JD green when finished cause I have a little left.

Best of luck with the construction! Be careful without a shear pin.

- Spindifferent

stuckmotor · Mar 5, 2013

Foodplot said:
We've twisted up the KK subsoiler when a weld broke loose. Never had a problem with the old Dearborns (Dearborn 10-89 Subsoiler - Owner's Manual) which are common at auctions around here. I think mine was $20. These have a shear pin to prevent damage. Fred Cain makes a copy of the old Dearborn, but I don't know the relative quality.

My brother has a subsoiler that looks like the Dearborn. He's had problems with it folding up under the tractor when he raised it. Was this also a problem with the Dearborn? Is there a remedy for this?

spruce Deere · Mar 5, 2013

The LS and deere brand subs I have been look'n at have the 1 inch thick beam also. They are rated to 40/50 hp also.

I am shooting for an non-pretzel build, and its gunna be a little hard to form one from that thick of materia and good welds and proper usage with my 790. After looking at all the pretzeled lighter ones here on TBN, looks like some poeple tried to turn a corner with the implement still in the ground while at full depth.......:confused2: and some subs looked like the welds were just junk from the factory and just pulled apart with some use or finding a root, rock or something with a little resistance.

I sub-soil slowly, just in case of an non-moving obstical and there is more power in the low range, and ALWAYS lift implement out of ground before a corner, then turn the corner

sixdogs · Mar 5, 2013

Spindifferent said:
Very true!

I have a JD 3520 (37hp, around 3700lbs with FEL) and pull the Tufline 24" single shank with lots of effort. I've read that the curved shape of the Tufline sub actually makes it easier to pull through the soil. I can only pull it at max depth in MFWD, and only when the soil condition is optimal. I need more weight.

- Spindifferent

How deep are you going with this and what type of soil do you have?

Wyobuckaroo · Mar 5, 2013

oldnslo said:
Will the middle buster style tater digger go 18" deep? The ones I have looked at at the local TSC don't look like they would go as deep as an actual sub-soiler is intended to operate.

-----------------
To Oldnslo....... Yes the middle buster you see in my picture will pull just about full depth, in garden type ground.

------
To the poster in #31....... Nice score on the steel. That seems a good price....
But make sure you have enough 3pt movement to keep a 24" deep implement above ground when you need to.....\
Be sure to post pictures of your build.
Good luck

Foodplot · Mar 6, 2013

stuckmotor said:
My brother has a subsoiler that looks like the Dearborn. He's had problems with it folding up under the tractor when he raised it. Was this also a problem with the Dearborn? Is there a remedy for this?

It will do that due to the pivoting top link attachment arm I don't mind it. Just reach back and pull the top towards the seat (may need to attach a rope) as you lower it to the ground.
I suppose you could put a put a couple of washers between the top arm and shank and tighten down the bolt, but it really is designed to pivot.