Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150

[crowbar032]

After 45 years, the carb started leaking on my MF 150 so I thought I'd try to rebuild it myself. This is my first carb rebuild and I'm probably in over my head, but how else does one learn.

I removed the carb and took it apart. It was pretty grungy, so I got one of the gallon cans of carb cleaner from Napa. It is the consistency of paint, I put the carb in the basket and soaked it for an hour (instructions only said 20 min). I pulled it out, rinsed it off and began trying to remove the seat. However, I can't get the seat to turn. When it didn't turn easily, I quit before I completely boogered the brass up. So I have two questions.

1. How are you supposed to remove the seat? Is there some special tool I need or a huge screwdriver? (pic attached for reference).
2. The float does not have a hole in it, but the sides appear to be caved in (pic attached for reference). I'd like opinions on whether I should replace the float as well.

Not sure if it matters, but the carb is a Marvel Schebler TSX 882.

 

[crowbar032]

Forgot one of the pics.

 

[murphy1244]

Shoot some PB blaster on the sides and try a easy out with a T handle.

 

[flusher]

Brass seat in steel carb body--dissimilar metals-- so try CRC Freeze-Off spray onto the seat to cool down the brass and loosen the threads via differential thermal contraction. Use a screwdriver with a blade that fits the seat securely (no slop--brass is pretty soft and is easily boogered up).

Good luck

 

[MasseyWV]

I encountered the same problem while trying to remove the seat as I was disassembling the Marvel Schebler TSX-882 carburetor on my Massey 135 tractor so I could rebuild it. Similarly, the plug on the bottom of the fuel bowl was also stuck and refused to budge.

Ultimately, I was able to remove both the steel plug and the brass seat by using a propane torch to heat up the entire carburetor bowl until it was fairly hot, then removing each using a large screwdriver.

Regarding your float, the damage doesn't look very bad so it should be fine as long as there are no holes in it. Note that if holes are found, they can be easily repaired with solder after ensuring there is no residual gasoline in the float which would reduce it's buoyancy.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...y-1966-massey-135-tractor-26.html#post2935093

 

[crowbar032]

Shoot some PB blaster on the sides and try a easy out with a T handle.

Soaked with PB after meeting resistance. I hadn't thought about an easy out. I'll use that as my last option as I'm worried about the threads of the carb body.

Brass seat in steel carb body--dissimilar metals-- so try CRC Freeze-Off spray onto the seat to cool down the brass and loosen the threads via differential thermal contraction. Use a screwdriver with a blade that fits the seat securely (no slop--brass is pretty soft and is easily boogered up).
Good luck

Have not heard of that product, will look for it. I can see it coming in handy for other projects as well. After the screwdriver slipped and started leaving marks on the brass, I quit. I thought I should ask some questions before I really screwed it up.

I encountered the same problem while trying to remove the seat as I was disassembling the Marvel Schebler TSX-882 carburetor on my Massey 135 tractor so I could rebuild it. Similarly, the plug on the bottom of the fuel bowl was also stuck and refused to budge.

Ultimately, I was able to remove both the steel plug and the brass seat by using a propane torch to heat up the entire carburetor bowl until it was fairly hot, then removing each using a large screwdriver.

Regarding your float, the damage doesn't look very bad so it should be fine as long as there are no holes in it. Note that if holes are found, they can be easily repaired with solder after ensuring there is no residual gasoline in the float which would reduce it's buoyancy.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...y-1966-massey-135-tractor-26.html#post2935093

I've been following your thread, good advice and pictures. It's also slightly more reassuring that I'm not the only one that's had this issue. I was hoping I wouldn't need a torch, but it's looking like it may not be optional.

I did the hot water check on the float and it does not leak. I didn't know how sensitive carb are and if the dents would matter. I'll try it without replacing.



Thanks for the replies.

 

[The kid]

Forgot one of the pics.

I'd be real careful trying to unscrew that seat to the point of leaving it along. If that seat mates up to the other side of the body make sure you haven't deformed it where where the halves are jammed together. Make sure the needle with the soft tip still slides easily in and out. Here is a really good link on Marvel Schebler carb rebuilding in a PDF form. -robert

www.antiquefarming.com/PDF/carburetor.pdf

 

[Jerry/MT]

Put the part with the needle seat in boiling water for several minutes and then try to remove the seat. The differntial expansion (brass vs cast iron) should help loosen it.

 

[The kid]

Put the part with the needle seat in boiling water for several minutes and then try to remove the seat. The differntial expansion (brass vs cast iron) should help loosen it.

That's a good idea Jerry. I'll have to remember that.

 

[tcartwri]

Shoot some PB blaster on the sides and try a easy out with a T handle.

An easy out in the jet/seat... Do not do this.

Heat is your friend. A heat gun will be enough to heat the body of the carb. Use a tight fitting full blade screwdriver to take it out. You absolutely do not want to damage the interior passage or seat of the jet unless you have a replacment.