whistlepig
Elite Member
I wouldn't even consider doing this.
Mowing Can't get Rotary Cutter blade off...
- Thread starter KubotaGlocker
- Start date
- Views: 6327
I wouldn't even consider doing this.
sshaw
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 67
- Location
- Hanover County, VA
- Tractor
- John Deere 750, John Deere X540, Wallenstein BXMT3213 chipper shredder, Befco bush hog
I had trouble getting my blades off at first also. The nuts had been on there for over 20 years and they were badly rusted. I couldn't budge the nut using the "T" handle socket tool supplied with the cutter, even using a 6' section of pipe as a cheater bar. The "T" handle was only about a foot long, so the tool was kind of a joke, considering the torque specs were 350 ft-lbs.
I bought a 40" long 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 3/4" drive impact socket that fit the nut. I heated the nut a little with a propane torch, sprayed some PB Blaster on it while it was hot, and let it sit for a few minutes. The nut came off with no problem. I had to pull hard on it, but with that large breaker bar you can put tremendous torque on the nut. I used this bar:
Titan JUMBO Breaker Bar — 40in.L, 3/4in. Drive, Model# 12048 | Ratchets Handles| Northern Tool + Equipment
The most important thing was probably getting everything secured so I could bear down on the breaker bar without anything bending or shifting. I attached the cutter to the tractor and used a strap puller to lift up the deck so I could access the blades. I used a pipe to block the blade carrier from turning. Before I did that, things were kind of loose and it was impossible to transfer all the torque to the nut.
Here's a picture of the setup and the old nut.
I bought a 40" long 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 3/4" drive impact socket that fit the nut. I heated the nut a little with a propane torch, sprayed some PB Blaster on it while it was hot, and let it sit for a few minutes. The nut came off with no problem. I had to pull hard on it, but with that large breaker bar you can put tremendous torque on the nut. I used this bar:
Titan JUMBO Breaker Bar — 40in.L, 3/4in. Drive, Model# 12048 | Ratchets Handles| Northern Tool + Equipment
The most important thing was probably getting everything secured so I could bear down on the breaker bar without anything bending or shifting. I attached the cutter to the tractor and used a strap puller to lift up the deck so I could access the blades. I used a pipe to block the blade carrier from turning. Before I did that, things were kind of loose and it was impossible to transfer all the torque to the nut.
Here's a picture of the setup and the old nut.
zoltanthegypsy
Gold Member
Educate me please. Why not?
The trailer is attached to the pickup. The tractor is tied down. There are blocks under the mower - but the blades are accessible without getting under anything. Easily reached from behind. It's elevated only to make the blade that's been rotated to the rear easier to see.
Z.
whistlepig
Elite Member
A good impact wrench verses a good breaker bar with a pipe extension? Which would win? I have done both many times.
whistlepig
Elite Member
Why would I? I can drop them on the ground with an impact and then sharpen them in a vise on my workbench. My blades swivel on the stump jumper. Holding the blades with one hand and operating the grinder at the same time with the other hand would be easier?
zoltanthegypsy
Gold Member
Ah, got it. For a minute I thought you were the safety police
Yeah, holding with one hand and operating a 4" grinder is easier - for an old man who doesn't have impact tools
Mine swivel too - it's no big deal.Different strokes...
Z.
whistlepig
Elite Member
Ah, got it. For a minute I thought you were the safety police
Yeah, holding with one hand and operating a 4" grinder is easier - for an old man who doesn't have impact tools
Different strokes...
Z.
I'm an old man too. Not the safety police. Too old to crawl under things. I have learned in old age to make things come to me and not have things have me come to them. A small comfort of my years.
hslogger
Platinum Member
I can chime in with some recent experience, like ah, yesterday.I have an early seventies vintage IMCO five foot Rotary Cutter. It has to my knowledge never been apart since new. We left it on the tractor and put eight by eight blocks underneath the PAN, let the deck down and turned off the tractor. We positioned the first nut to be under the access hole.
The cotter key was frozen but after some heat with a torch we finally got that out. Nothing like having good old USA Channel lock side cutters for this task. Then the torch and lots of heat on the nut and bolt. My buddy is a sawmill millwright and real savvy. Then we put the big socket on it and his monster impact wrench. Rattle and rattle, finally came loose. Alternating heat and the torque. Then we took the nut up to the top, heated it all again so we could see a crack indicating the swelling and shrinking of the hole. We took a big pin made from axle shafting and beat on it with a ten pound sledge, and bolt dropped to the ground. We lifted the deck and repositioned so we could access the other nut and bolt.
Again, supporting the bottom is important because you don't wanna screw up your gearbox with stress while beating on the frozen bolt.
And last but not least, I had soaked these ancient nuts and bolts with Blaster for seven days.
I went to Farmland supply in Tangent Oregon and they sold me a match for my bolts. My bolts have a squeezed key in them. We will reassemble it next week and will have to do some seriouss maintenance on the key way because of rust and corrosion. We WILL absolutely put it back together with anti seize and torque.
The cotter key was frozen but after some heat with a torch we finally got that out. Nothing like having good old USA Channel lock side cutters for this task. Then the torch and lots of heat on the nut and bolt. My buddy is a sawmill millwright and real savvy. Then we put the big socket on it and his monster impact wrench. Rattle and rattle, finally came loose. Alternating heat and the torque. Then we took the nut up to the top, heated it all again so we could see a crack indicating the swelling and shrinking of the hole. We took a big pin made from axle shafting and beat on it with a ten pound sledge, and bolt dropped to the ground. We lifted the deck and repositioned so we could access the other nut and bolt.
Again, supporting the bottom is important because you don't wanna screw up your gearbox with stress while beating on the frozen bolt.
And last but not least, I had soaked these ancient nuts and bolts with Blaster for seven days.
I went to Farmland supply in Tangent Oregon and they sold me a match for my bolts. My bolts have a squeezed key in them. We will reassemble it next week and will have to do some seriouss maintenance on the key way because of rust and corrosion. We WILL absolutely put it back together with anti seize and torque.
Buckgnarly
Platinum Member
My 36" SO can do a lot more damage to stuck fasteners than my IR2135. Though the IR2135 makes it a WHOLE lot easier!
Notforhire
Veteran Member
I guess I'm one of the others that doesn't like the grease idea.
I do think putting it together dry is a bad idea.I have been using nickel never seize for years with good results. That's its intended use.:thumbsup:
Bill