Mowing Can't get Rotary Cutter blade off...

KubotaGlocker · Apr 14, 2013

Thank for all the good input. It will be next weekend before I have time to try it again. I will give it a good soaking a couple times thru the week and plan on applying some heat.

I had given serious thought to crawling under there with a side grinder but was not looking forward to it very much.

Maestro71 · Apr 14, 2013

I just did this for the first time and rather than fighting with it I put it on the ground next to a tree and lifted it with the fel until it tipped back on the tree exposing the under belly. I clamped the blades in place and sharpened them. Tipped it back and done. It was cold out and I knew I was looking at a fight with the rusty nuts. Don't try this at home, I'm a trained idiot.

930ck · Apr 14, 2013

Mine is an older Rhino mower but when it was time to replace the blades I broke a half inch breakover wrench and ended up torching the nuts off, thats when I found out that the blade bolts were left-hand threads.

Notforhire · Apr 14, 2013

930ck said:
Mine is an older Rhino mower but when it was time to replace the blades I broke a half inch breakover wrench and ended up torching the nuts off, thats when I found out that the blade bolts were left-hand threads.

That's wild. I have never seen one w/ left hand threads. Did you replace the old bolts with right hand ones, or keep it as original?

Bill

930ck · Apr 14, 2013

Notforhire said:
That's wild. I have never seen one w/ left hand threads. Did you replace the old bolts with right hand ones, or keep it as original?

Bill

Figured they were left hand for a reason so so that is what I used, have not removed blades since so hope I still remember when it's time to remove them next time.

gwdixon · Apr 15, 2013

930ck said:
Figured they were left hand for a reason so so that is what I used, have not removed blades since so hope I still remember when it's time to remove them next time.

Try using a Sharpie to write "LH tread" by the access holes.

Even better is to use a paint pen like weldors use.

Gary Fowler · Apr 15, 2013

Maestro71 said:
I just did this for the first time and rather than fighting with it I put it on the ground next to a tree and lifted it with the fel until it tipped back on the tree exposing the under belly. I clamped the blades in place and sharpened them. Tipped it back and done. It was cold out and I knew I was looking at a fight with the rusty nuts. Don't try this at home, I'm a trained idiot.

The last time I worked on our 2 bush hogs, I did similar. I just used the FEL to lift it up and hold it in place. I had to remove the stump jumper from the 4 foot one, it would have been really dangerous to try to pull it off laying underneath it (they aren't that light weight). I got the whole thing off with blade attached then got them on the workshop table and removed the blades. Sharpened them up, welded back the T bar to the splined gear box attachment piece (weld had broke on one side of the coupling) put the blade back on and then put the whole thing back on the bush hog.
Next I decided to do some repair to the 6 foot one, so I raised it up with FEL and held it in place. Wedged a pry bar in the U-joint to keep the blades from turning and used a 3/4" drive breaker bar to take off the blades to sharpen. It was only a couple years old so it came off easy.

Lou66 · Apr 15, 2013

I pick mine up with my FEL and lean it against the barn,, take a little water and grinder and go to work,, takes about hour in all.. Lou

CGDuner · Apr 16, 2013

I have the same model mower as the original poster & I'm on the side of sharpening them on the mower. Of course must have a FEL or hoist that can handle it. With it sitting on its side(pretty much balances itself) with the your hoist still holding some # for safety gives you great access to the blades. Can't remember exactly how I locked the blades in place but think it was just a pry bar & a chain. Used a 9" grinder but a good 4.5" would do fine. Sounds like some want to use their bench grinders but even if I had the blades off I'd prefer to use a hand held for this operation.

As was said before every buddy has different ways of doing things. To me if you have to put heat to it, use a 1" impact or 6' cheater on it, just seems like alot to go through just to sharpen. Of course replacing blades or doing other maintanece that would require the blades to be removed all the above suggestions sound good. I think a good soaking with PB Blaster would help as well. I'm not opposed to taking blades off as that is what we do with all our walk behind & riding mowers. Good Luck

Notforhire · Apr 16, 2013

I bought a used cutter from a guy that must have used it to cut sea weed under water or lived on a salt marsh. The top side looked good, but it was pretty rusty underneath. No scale just rusty. The blades were pretty beat too.
It was the only mower that I ever had a hard time removing the blades from. Heat, and beat.
I have found that after the first removal, and coating the bolts with never-sieze, disassembly isn't a problem after that.
The plus side to taking the thing apart is it's easier to check the condition of the parts, (cracks ect.) I also check the spindle nut. I found one loose on a fairly new cutter once. It's a tapered shaft' and it will self destruct after a little while if loose.
A friend of mine had the entire blade assembly drop out and cut through both rear tires on the tractor.

My neighbor had a blade come apart at the bolt hole. It flew off and he didn't find it for a year. There's lots of weight flying around under there. It's best if it stays connected.:thumbsup:

Best, Bill