JD 2755 running too close to hot

Red Raider · Jul 28, 2010

Cab tractor ('87) pulling bushhog getting too close to hot in 105 degree Texas. Will pull under tree if heat gauge gets close to red and idle til it goes down. New coolant, oil & filters (air). Clean grill, condenser & radiator. Fan belt ok. New thermostat put in last summer. Running in 2nd gear. Have always serviced on schedule. Weekend guy. Bought new in '87, it seems to be running warmer than it used to and I'm concerned. Not leaking or losing coolant. Tks.

JasG · Jul 28, 2010

Did you also service the trans filter at the time of the other changes? What was your mix when you changed coolant? Did the coolant have diesel conditioner in it?

When you cleaned the radiator did you flush the fins good with water or just use air?

When the coolant was changed did you flush the whole system out?

sweettractors · Jul 28, 2010

After you have done all that, It only leaves a couple things? How about the vane condition on the water pump. I assume it does not have a clutch on the fan? Something in the drive train may be pulling that tractor extra hard. Ken Sweet

Red Raider · Jul 28, 2010

JasG,
No on trans. filter. Coolant straight JD- It says do not add water-- just straight.
I assume it doesn't have diesel conditioner. Used air, then water, but only can shoot both from the side, but it looks pretty clear.
Ken, water pump is original. My son in law's relative had a Ford compact tractor running a little hot. They were told water pump had rubber blades that were probably worn. They replaced water pump and it straightened out. I don't know if JD is rubber or metal.
Sounds like ya'll are telling me to replace trans filter and maybe water pump?
Thanks for the good advice.

JasG · Jul 29, 2010

If you used the JD coolant then it does have the coolant conditioner in it.

I would change the trans and if it has a seperate hydraulic filter change that also. Any extra load or drag can make things work harder.

Then after that as Ken posted inspect the water pump.

kwswan · Jul 29, 2010

have you replaced the radiator cap?also has the radiator ever been removed? if not it might be time to take it out & take it to a good radiator shop to be cleaned.

BryanM · Jul 29, 2010

My bet is your guage is off a bit.

Red Raider · Jul 31, 2010

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to change the trans. filter & fluid first & new rad. cap. Then, if not better, pull out radiator. It's @ weekend place & I can't get there for another week.

RickB · Jul 31, 2010

Why not spend a few bucks ($50?) and buy a non-contact infrared thermometer with a laser pointer. See if the darn thing is actually running hot before you start throwing parts at it. Especially the hydraulic fliud and filter; changing them only because of suspected marginally high coolant temps makes absolutely no sense. Most obvious real root cause (from where I sit) is a partially plugged radiator core which would limit heat transfer and coolant flow.

Red Raider · Aug 1, 2010

RickB, will do. What areas do you measure to reliably know there is really a hot problem. Best place to get the instrument? Tks.

JESSE1 · Aug 1, 2010

I'd suggest pulling the shields from around the radiator so you can get a water hose close enough to the radiator to give it a good flush. Also flush out the A/C condenser. I had to do this with my 6400 a few years ago. Noticed it running a little warmer than usual running my 535 baler about this time of year. Pulled the shields from around the radiator and gave it a good flush with water then blew it out with air. Engine ran much cooler. This reminds me, I need to do this again.

RickB · Aug 1, 2010

Mine came frim Sears, but they are available just about anywhere automotive repair tools are sold. I'd check the thermostat housing, both above and below where the t-stat sits if possible. Or the top radiator hose, or right at the temperature sender. You might also take a reading at the lower hose to check radiator efficiency.

Red Raider · Aug 2, 2010

Got a IR thermometer ordered from Amazon. Will check it this weekend. Tks for all the suggestions.

rutwad · Aug 13, 2010

That infrared thermometer is handy for several things. But I have a '67 Bronco with 351w which some are known to run hot. The dash temp gauge read fine, but I purchased a radiator cap/ thermometer to make sure. Works great, not sure if they work for tractors or not.

I did not see it mentioned, but make sure the airfilter is clean too.

Stacy A · Jun 3, 2013

Red Raider, Did you get your problem with your 2755 figured out? I having same issue with mine. Thanks

Red Raider said:
Cab tractor ('87) pulling bushhog getting too close to hot in 105 degree Texas. Will pull under tree if heat gauge gets close to red and idle til it goes down. New coolant, oil & filters (air). Clean grill, condenser & radiator. Fan belt ok. New thermostat put in last summer. Running in 2nd gear. Have always serviced on schedule. Weekend guy. Bought new in '87, it seems to be running warmer than it used to and I'm concerned. Not leaking or losing coolant. Tks.

sweettractors · Jun 3, 2013

Stacy A said:
Red Raider, Did you get your problem with your 2755 figured out? I having same issue with mine. Thanks

Have you tried blowing water/air back through the radiator cooling fins? Ken Sweet

roush9799 · Jun 5, 2013

Do the 2755's have a fan clutch? We have a 4440 w/out and had a 4450 with. The 4450 did have one, and it wasn't fully engaging when the engine got warm chopping silage. Dealer had a clutch lockup kit we installed so the fan would run at full speed all the time.