No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!

[Gator6x4]

Kohler has free service manuals posted on the web. Go here; Kohler Engines: Home. Click on Manuals and maintenance at the top of the page. You will probably also need your model and spec number. Keep in mind the manual will be for a bare Kohler engine when reviewing the electrical schematic. Scag I am sure added a bunch of safety switches and their own wiring circuit. But at least you will know what it originally looked like and would run in that configuration.

 

[LD1]

http://www.scag.com/OpManuals/SSZ/93SSZOPMAN/93SSZOPMANcomplete01181.pdf

Thats to op manual with wiring diagram.

Dont seem to help much other than there are an aweful lot of wires that tie in to "kill" the magneto.

Since you mention you are getting a spark, but a weak one, tells me that I doubt it is any of the kill circuits.

What are your plugs like?? are you testing for spark by grounding a plug?? or are you using a well insulated screwdriver??

Sometimes plugs can be sparking way down inside and even where you cant see it, and cause you all kinds of troubleshooting headaches. If you arent, try using a screwdriver (or actual spark tester) and take the plug out of the equation...

 

[Mike VS]

Kohler has free service manuals posted on the web. Go here; Kohler Engines: Home. Click on Manuals and maintenance at the top of the page. You will probably also need your model and spec number. Keep in mind the manual will be for a bare Kohler engine when reviewing the electrical schematic. Scag I am sure added a bunch of safety switches and their own wiring circuit. But at least you will know what it originally looked like and would run in that configuration.

Already poured over that... Again, the ONLY outside influence the mower has on the motor is that white wire leading to the coil - the kill wire. That has been disconnected and therefore isolating the motor completely.

 

[DFB]

So are they any safety relays in this system?

 

[Mike VS]

So are they any safety relays in this system?

Only ones that tie in to that kill wire that was disconnected.

 

[Mike VS]

http://www.scag.com/OpManuals/SSZ/93SSZOPMAN/93SSZOPMANcomplete01181.pdf

Thats to op manual with wiring diagram.

Dont seem to help much other than there are an aweful lot of wires that tie in to "kill" the magneto.

Since you mention you are getting a spark, but a weak one, tells me that I doubt it is any of the kill circuits.

What are your plugs like?? are you testing for spark by grounding a plug?? or are you using a well insulated screwdriver??

Sometimes plugs can be sparking way down inside and even where you cant see it, and cause you all kinds of troubleshooting headaches. If you arent, try using a screwdriver (or actual spark tester) and take the plug out of the equation...

That was the first thing I thought even before I bought the new coil. The plugs are new and I have tried several other used plugs that I am sure are good And when checking the wire to ground I should have a spark 1/4" to 1/2". I am holding the wire away from ground with my hand so there is no chance of it leaking.

 

[KYErik]

I'd reduce the plug gap. I have a few old small engines with weak spark (I am too lazy to clean the points) that run pretty well with a plug gap of only 0.010"

 

[Mike VS]

NEW TEST RESULTS: I went out and re-checked the air gap and tweeked it. Poof - I have a spark! Then I screw in the plugs, try to start it and nothing. I re-check the spark.....GONE!

 

[Mike VS]

I'd reduce the plug gap. I have a few old small engines with weak spark (I am too lazy to clean the points) that run pretty well with a plug gap of only 0.010"

Yea, tried that too. No go Joe.

 

[KYErik]

Is your coil well grounded to the engine block? Clean shiny metal under the bolts that hold it to the block? If the coil mounting holes are covered with fresh paint then it could be insulated from the block- and the circuit would not be complete.