First real day on new BX25D... need encouragement!

dragoneggs · Jun 20, 2013

Okay, I finally had a chance to get my new BX25D dirty today. :licking: Full disclosure first. This is my first tractor (other than a JD riding lawnmower). I have a sloping some places very steep 1.5 acre of which about 1acre freshly cleared property. Soil is very rocky. I will post some pics of the property and my challenges soon but my mission is to terrace and put in quite a bit of stone wall bulkheads. Make a gravel road down to lower property (already very rough cut by excavator), and dig a 250ft long or so ditch for a buried water line for garden and Rain Bird irrigation system. Then finish landscaping with planting orchard trees, berries, large vegetable garden, and some grass. I have a huge berm of cleared trees, debri, etc. on the low side of the clearing left by the hired excavator.

After doing much reading on TBN I outfitted the tractor with 2in rear and 1.5in front wheel spacers from Bro Tek and also installed the rear and front skid plates last night. That went pretty well. Today I spent a couple hours putzing around trying not to roll the machine and kill myself on Day 1. My main goal today was just to get used to using the FEL and BH. I started to get used to the BH and admit that was a lot of fun but I didn't get much accomplished. I struggled using the FEL and I think that had a lot to do with positioning. I seem to always be traversing the slope where I could... trying to make it level (roll wise). Not sure I am explaining my predicament well yet but I could sure use some tips and encouragement!!! :confused3:

RaydaKub · Jun 20, 2013

Hey Dragon, good on those spacers, but better if you fill those wheels. Just take it slow and things will be fine. Your tractor already knows how to do those things, it just needs you to keep up. It wouldn't matter if it was this BX or Terex, you have to become familiar with the equipment. A bucket on a sidehill is tough to master. You are always fighting to keep it uphill. If you try to dig in, it lifts the front wheels and will tend to slice downhill. If you lift much at all, it gets more tippy. I don't think there is a solid answer to that part. I've never had a backhoe, so I can't offer much there. Good luck!

dragoneggs · Jun 20, 2013

Thanks RaydaKub. Yes I have thought about filling the tires but want to look into doing it myself. When I purchased my BX, I heard another salesman talking about the price to have some tires filled and it seemed quite expensive (don't remember the $$$ and don't know what kind of tractor). I also don't have a trailer and I am hoping to save a bunch of dollars on by doing as much maintenance, etc. myself. I assume tire filling can be a DIY job?

RaydaKub · Jun 20, 2013

Easily. I have gravity filled my tires w/ no pump, but lots of guys get a little drill pump to do it. Either way, you'll need the the bleeder valve for about $10. First time, I did it with valves at 12:00. When I refilled one after a busted valve stem, I did it laying flat.

I took my valve core out then put the valve on. I had a floor jack under the 3ph frame. I had about 8 foot of hose with a shutoff valve on it. I used my dehumidifier bucket bungied onto a 6 foot ladder. I started by letting the jack down to force air out of the tire, and use the bleeder valve to do that. Then I jacked it back up causing almost a vacuum in the tire and opened the hose valve. When the flow got too slow, I shut the hose valve and let the jack down, bled air out and started over. It took me about 45 minutes per tire. I'm sure a pump would go faster.

When I dinged the valve stem, I used the opposite method of jacking to squirt the fluid out into an oil pan. I saved about 10 gallons, so even laying down on the refill, I pretty much knew how much was going in.

I bought 20 gallons of -20 degree washer fluid for about $1.20 per and planned on 10 gallons in each tire, but it was still filling nicely, so I put in another gallon+ of water. It's not as heavy as CalCh or rim-guard, but was cheap.

rbarker · Jun 20, 2013

dragoneggs said:
Okay, I finally had a chance to get my new BX25D dirty today. :licking: Full disclosure first. This is my first tractor (other than a JD riding lawnmower). I have a sloping some places very steep 1.5 acre of which about 1acre freshly cleared property. Soil is very rocky. I will post some pics of the property and my challenges soon but my mission is to terrace and put in quite a bit of stone wall bulkheads. Make a gravel road down to lower property (already very rough cut by excavator), and dig a 250ft long or so ditch for a buried water line for garden and Rain Bird irrigation system. Then finish landscaping with planting orchard trees, berries, large vegetable garden, and some grass. I have a huge berm of cleared trees, debri, etc. on the low side of the clearing left by the hired excavator.

After doing much reading on TBN I outfitted the tractor with 2in rear and 1.5in front wheel spacers from Bro Tek and also installed the rear and front skid plates last night. That went pretty well. Today I spent a couple hours putzing around trying not to roll the machine and kill myself on Day 1. My main goal today was just to get used to using the FEL and BH. I started to get used to the BH and admit that was a lot of fun but I didn't get much accomplished. I struggled using the FEL and I think that had a lot to do with positioning. I seem to always be traversing the slope where I could... trying to make it level (roll wise). Not sure I am explaining my predicament well yet but I could sure use some tips and encouragement!!! :confused3:

Pictures of the area will help a lot for giving specific tips but in general, don't despair! It takes a bit of practice to figure this all out. One day isn't really enough. One comment from your avatar, your loader should never be that high while moving unless absolutely necessary. Even empty it makes for stability issues. Low and slow is the rule to live by!

Good luck and have fun

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

WaxMan · Jun 20, 2013

Go straight up and down hills and keep your bucket as low to the ground as possible while traveling :thumbsup:

Deano · Jun 20, 2013

More you use it...the better you will get!!:thumbsup:

Tractor Seabee · Jun 20, 2013

Keep at it and learn your and the tractors limits. I have a BX25, past model of yours but I just looked at the 25D and ii is almost identical. Ballast: read your operators manual under Tires, Wheels, and Ballast. The BX tires are small, I use suitcase weights hung low as I can adjust in 45# increments. I do not use ballast for that reason. I can use them on both ends as needed. If I tell you what it says you won't read it. Remember the old saying, "when everything else fails read the instructions". The manual is very good for inexperienced new owners, old guys like me too. During the warranty period you want to follow Kubota instructions to the letter to avoid a dispute on "caused by owner error, sorry no warranty". The wheel extenders are not condoned by Kubota. My dealer would not even sell them as part of a new sale for that reason. If you are serious about doing your own maintenance; spend the $100 to get the shop manual. It has in 3 seasons (900 hours) saved me $1000 by keeping it out of the Dealer shop. How far you go depends on your mechanical abilities. I buy all my lubricants and filters at NAPA. I get the Fleet discount of +/- 40% as my military discount. I have hilly forested property (21 AC) also and now have my pucker factor down pretty well. The BX25 is a real work horse. Have fun and enjoy your work safely.

Ron

dragoneggs · Jun 20, 2013

rbarker said:
Pictures of the area will help a lot for giving specific tips but in general, don't despair! It takes a bit of practice to figure this all out. One day isn't really enough. One comment from your avatar, your loader should never be that high while moving unless absolutely necessary. Even empty it makes for stability issues. Low and slow is the rule to live by!

Good luck and have fun

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

Hi RBarker, yeah I should probably change my avatar... I know about COG, etc. I was excited upon delivery of my new tractor and wife snapped this photo. I do look like a rookie and it's true. Believe me I am definitely staying low and slow... even on my tractor! I will provide pics soon. I hope I don't bore you all.

dragoneggs · Jun 21, 2013

Tractor Seabee said:
Keep at it and learn your and the tractors limits. I have a BX25, past model of yours but I just looked at the 25D and ii is almost identical. Ballast: read your operators manual under Tires, Wheels, and Ballast. The BX tires are small, I use suitcase weights hung low as I can adjust in 45# increments. I do not use ballast for that reason. I can use them on both ends as needed. If I tell you what it says you won't read it. Remember the old saying, "when everything else fails read the instructions". The manual is very good for inexperienced new owners, old guys like me too. During the warranty period you want to follow Kubota instructions to the letter to avoid a dispute on "caused by owner error, sorry no warranty". The wheel extenders are not condoned by Kubota. My dealer would not even sell them as part of a new sale for that reason. If you are serious about doing your own maintenance; spend the $100 to get the shop manual. It has in 3 seasons (900 hours) saved me $1000 by keeping it out of the Dealer shop. How far you go depends on your mechanical abilities. I buy all my lubricants and filters at NAPA. I get the Fleet discount of +/- 40% as my military discount. I have hilly forested property (21 AC) also and now have my pucker factor down pretty well. The BX25 is a real work horse. Have fun and enjoy your work safely.

Ron

Hey Seabee, I was hoping you would chime in... we are neighbors! I assume you do your business at Kitsap Tractor? I definitely want to get the shop manuals... I am fairly mechanical (engineer). Just have to slip the shop manuals in with all the other toys like a quick hitch, forks, MMM, post hole digger, and... Wife cannot read this. Oh and not to mention the shop/shed I need to build as my garage is supposed to be housing her car!

Did read the owner's manual cover to cover a couple of times while on a business trip before I could finally jump on. I am really on the fence with filling the tires. not sure I want to go that way but I am thinking maybe a good thing until I am landscaped and mowing regularly. Then I could buy a set of turf tires on rims and switch them out? More $$$. When you say not condoned... I assume that as long as I don't break an axle, Kubota would acknowledge a warranty claim?

I can already tell that traction is my weakness, not power.

dragoneggs · Jun 21, 2013

WaxMan said:
Go straight up and down hills and keep your bucket as low to the ground as possible while traveling :thumbsup:

Hello Waxman, I have been following your new ride thread. Jealous. A little (a lot) warmer in the NW in the winter, so no cab needed but it is sweet.

Thanks for chiming in. Believe me... low and slow is already beaten into my head. Better change my avatar quickly. Too bad it's dark out. Maybe I should post a pic of my baby sleeping?

Grandad4 · Jun 21, 2013

dragoneggs said:
Okay, I finally had a chance to get my new BX25D dirty today. :licking: Full disclosure first. This is my first tractor (other than a JD riding lawnmower). I have a sloping some places very steep 1.5 acre of which about 1acre freshly cleared property. Soil is very rocky. I will post some pics of the property and my challenges soon but my mission is to terrace and put in quite a bit of stone wall bulkheads. Make a gravel road down to lower property (already very rough cut by excavator), and dig a 250ft long or so ditch for a buried water line for garden and Rain Bird irrigation system. Then finish landscaping with planting orchard trees, berries, large vegetable garden, and some grass. I have a huge berm of cleared trees, debri, etc. on the low side of the clearing left by the hired excavator.

After doing much reading on TBN I outfitted the tractor with 2in rear and 1.5in front wheel spacers from Bro Tek and also installed the rear and front skid plates last night. That went pretty well. Today I spent a couple hours putzing around trying not to roll the machine and kill myself on Day 1. My main goal today was just to get used to using the FEL and BH. I started to get used to the BH and admit that was a lot of fun but I didn't get much accomplished. I struggled using the FEL and I think that had a lot to do with positioning. I seem to always be traversing the slope where I could... trying to make it level (roll wise). Not sure I am explaining my predicament well yet but I could sure use some tips and encouragement!!! :confused3:

Consider your first experience with the BX an unqualified success. You walked away unscathed (remember the old one about successful landings?) and your trusty BX lives to work for you another day. Seat time is going to give you a sense of how to get things done. Here are just some random thoughts:
1. Obviously the BX is a little fellow. You won't simply bulldoze your way through heavy material but with persistence and creativity, it's downright amazing what such a machine can accomplish.
2. You've figured out that it can get tippy on slopes and with weight in the loader bucket. The suggestion about loaded tires is a good one.
3. The FEL controls are a bit abrupt and it takes some practiced skill to operate the bucket smoothly. While the BX likes to be revved up, it helps to dial the rpm's back a little as you're getting the hang of the FEL controls. Slows the action down a bit.
4. Dirt work using the FEL is considerably enhanced with the installation of a toothbar. Stands up better to rocks, etc. also.
5. Use low range for any heavy work.
Keep up the good work!

dragoneggs · Jun 21, 2013

Grandad4 said:
Consider your first experience with the BX an unqualified success. You walked away unscathed (remember the old one about successful landings?) and your trusty BX lives to work for you another day. Seat time is going to give you a sense of how to get things done. Here are just some random thoughts:
1. Obviously the BX is a little fellow. You won't simply bulldoze your way through heavy material but with persistence and creativity, it's downright amazing what such a machine can accomplish.
2. You've figured out that it can get tippy on slopes and with weight in the loader bucket. The suggestion about loaded tires is a good one.
3. The FEL controls are a bit abrupt and it takes some practiced skill to operate the bucket smoothly. While the BX likes to be revved up, it helps to dial the rpm's back a little as you're getting the hang of the FEL controls. Slows the action down a bit.
4. Dirt work using the FEL is considerably enhanced with the installation of a toothbar. Stands up better to rocks, etc. also.
5. Use low range for any heavy work.
Keep up the good work!

Thank you Grandad... jeez, that sounds funny, but I heed your advice. I am the patriarch in my family now as my fathers have moved on. Miss them.

Yes, I was a bit disappointed with the FEL 'out of the box' and definitely noticed how lower revs will make that a little more smooth. I am not trying to do too much but the jerkiness is not fun.

I was definitely thinking about a tooth bar after seeing the many accessories available. Any advice on brand? How easy to install? Are we talking about drilling holes, welding? I have only briefly looked at one... Piranha tooth bar from BXpanded. I would be using only for dirt work, gravel, etc. no brush. That was taken care by the excavation work I had done. On the other hand, if I don't figure out how to manage the slope, the brush and maples will be back! Photo is looking down from my deck. Steeper than it appears.

Dr Dave · Jun 21, 2013

What a beautiful view! The BX is nice too.:laughing:

Dave

dragoneggs · Jun 21, 2013

Dr Dave said:
What a beautiful view! The BX is nice too.:laughing:

Dave

Thank you... no complaints :cool2: The reason why we bought the place... a million dollar view and why I have to keep it cleared!

TripleR · Jun 21, 2013

Great advice by all on which I can't improve, agree beautiful view. As to maintenance, JOHNTHOMAS has a good thread on initial maintenance and ongoing maintenance on these things is really easy, we have had a BX for 10 years and only had one service done at the dealer when I was too sick to do it.

Kubota BX Service

radioman · Jun 21, 2013

If you are having trouble trying to make dirt level when you cut into soil with FEL, Slow down/stop and think about your rear tires. which side is lower? IE: if right side is lower, your are going to cut deeper on right side regardless what your front tires are doing. The front has little impact, but with some understand you can tweak how to do your FEL with from experience using both front and back - but the plane of the rear axle ALWAYS wins on how the FEL scoops, cuts, backdrag, etc.

Quite often you are better off using backhoe leveling off with stabilizers on steep hills to START your terracing and get level area big enough for the whole tractor, then you can start using fel to smooth out the path. If it too steep, I would point FEL downhill and anchor yourself with fel jammed in ground then use BH. Careful here though - if you have too many rocks, you cant cut in and anchor your self. Not a good place to be and you could have a wild ride down to bottom and who knows what will happen.

3v0 · Jun 21, 2013

radioman said:
Quite often you are better off using backhoe leveling off with stabilizers on steep hills to START your terracing and get level area big enough for the whole tractor, then you can start using fel to smooth out the path. If it too steep, I would point FEL downhill and anchor yourself with fel jammed in ground then use BH....

Agree 100%.

JOHNTHOMAS · Jun 21, 2013

First read this thread. Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX - Page 19
I have about 5 acres of hillside and have been Kubotaing it for about 10 years. Started with a BX2200 FEL MMM and after a year of discovering the Kubota sub compact is to close to the ground but is a real tractor not just a lifetime mower I moved to the B7800 for the extra uumph and mostly ground clearance. I also did a lot of moving up, down and crossways in size in the BXs, Bs and one L. The L on hillsides was scary for me. I had a BX25 for almost 3 years, I think, and it was my most used and most missed tractor of all. I did lay it on its side one time and almost turned it over many times. Scary when you almost do and a bit more scary when you or me actually did.
You can't cut a level road on a hillside with a front bucket easily and almost not at all with a tractor. That's why dozers have blades that will tilt at all different angles plus they are more stable on hillsides. I've paid for some of my hillside excavation (road building across steep hillside) to be done and only cost a few hundred dollars for a few hours work that would have taken me scary weeks or months to do. Well spent money.
You can do level roads on a hillside using the BH in lots and lots of time. Place your tractor in position, get stabilized and start digging with the BH and cut the upper side down as far as your BH bucket will reach and then you can scoop it up and spread it with the front bucket and move and do it again. That's the best way I've found on steep hillside to make it level. With the tractor and FEL the bucket is angled the same way as the tires on the ground which if sloped, the bucket will be sloped. Sometimes you can do your cut with the BH and then get your wheels on level ground that you made and then go forward with the front bucket cutting the angled hillside.
NEVER push your bucket down on a sloped hillside that has ANY under cut on the slope. It will turn your tractor on its side before oyu can let go of the control stick. If you want to see pics of a BX on it's side from doing that on a not real steep slope I can post them.

The BH and FEL make your tractor even more unstable soooo be careful at all times and don't even start it without your seat belt on.
Don't mean to discourage you but want to help save your life, limb and tractor.:thumbsup:

joebrocato · Jun 21, 2013

Filling tires. Get a bleeder valve from any tractor supply store. Jack up the tractor so the rear tire is clear of the floor. Remove the air valve from the stem. Rotate the tire until the stem is at 12:00. Attach the bleeder to the stem and a garden hose. Use a funnel to fill the hose with anti-freeze. Attach the hose to the hose bibb and fill the tire. The tire will fill to about 2/3 full of water which is about what the kubota recommendation is.
I got my front tires filled solid with rubber at the tire place. They are heavier than water filled, but there is quite a sacrifice in smoothness of ride and some traction. Mine are turf tires, but I think that if they were industrial or ag tires the traction would not be affected as much. I would not do this if I had loose or rocky soil because of the traction.
My place sounds much similar to yours, a lot of side-hill mowing. It takes some practice. Be carefull with the bucket, and wear the seat belt. I have had some very exciting experiences on hills with a load on the bucket....BE CAREFUL. Before you try something, think it through.