Love my new 2012 Kioti cab tractor but don,t like the cab lights.

[coobie]

well, just so you wont be too disappointed, i asked a manufactures rep at a trade show, and the 50,000 hour designation is only based on being left on 24/7.

anytime a light is turned on and off, it decreases this life expectancy. This is especially so with florescent. It also affects LED's.

Also, the led flashlights i buy barely outlive the battery life before the lamps start to drop out. I have a serous issue with LED's in general. Maybe after the bugs are all worked out i can get serious about getting some

I guess it will be a wait and see thing.I have had Leds on my Kubota RTV 900 since last year,so far so good.With my old eyes they make quite a difference at night.Hope the florescent thing is not true.I have not changed my bulbs in my florescent kitchen lights since our house was built back in 1994.coobie

 

[grsthegreat]

I guess it will be a wait and see thing.I have had Leds on my Kubota RTV 900 since last year,so far so good.With my old eyes they make quite a difference at night.Hope the florescent thing is not true.I have not changed my bulbs in my florescent kitchen lights since our house was built back in 1994.coobie

i know florescent dim. i recently replaced one of the CFL's on my front porch....and now all the old ones look dim.

I also ended up installing a new ballast and set of lamps in my shop HO florescent fixture. the other 7 look about 20-30% dimmer. There all over 7-8 years old.

 

[coobie]

i know florescent dim. i recently replaced one of the CFL's on my front porch....and now all the old ones look dim.

I also ended up installing a new ballast and set of lamps in my shop HO florescent fixture. the other 7 look about 20-30% dimmer. There all over 7-8 years old.

Sounds good maybe one of these days I will address the house florescent bulbs.Don,t want to get this thread to far off track.It,s about LED,s at this point.coobie

 

[rjwerth]

well, just so you wont be too disappointed, i asked a manufactures rep at a trade show, and the 50,000 hour designation is only based on being left on 24/7.

anytime a light is turned on and off, it decreases this life expectancy. This is especially so with florescent. It also affects LED's.

Also, the led flashlights i buy barely outlive the battery life before the lamps start to drop out. I have a serous issue with LED's in general. Maybe after the bugs are all worked out i can get serious about getting some

Lamp life is based on certain design criteria that fixture manufactures may or may not meet. That is why I said to be sure to buy a quality fixture. Companies will often use the LED spec lamp life rating even though they don't bother to ensure that the thermo specs are met. Also, they will use crappy electronics that fail before the lamp does.

Another popular trick is to give a lamp life rating without telling tou what the output of the lamp is suppsed to be at the end of its life. A good manufacturer will say for example 30000 hours the lamp will be at 50% of the rated intensity.

Also, a properly made LED will NOT suffer life loss at startup. LEDs can turn on and off 1000s of times a second! HID lamps and fluorescent lamps, however do loose life every time they are ignited.

Finally, just because a fixture is using Cree lamps does NOT mean the fixture was designed by Cree.

With all that said, I hope your new fixtures serve you well!

 

[dirtdevil911]

The Crees I bought are supposed to have 50,000 hour life.Hopefully that's true.coobie

Well the 50,000 hour ratings are guesses based on a heat soak test. They run the 24/7 in a heated room around 85-90*C till they fail. Then calculated back to math out the average life.

We have some LEDs that last 100,000 hours that run 12 volts. The problem is they are not quite as bright in the light they produce. When you start to jamb the power to them and over clock them you need a large heat sink like an aluminum block or finned rad to cool them. Leaving them on 24/7 is harder on them and will degrade their life much faster because they can't get rid of the heat and will cook the nanocrystalline, the little yellow part of the led that glows making the light.

Our company has found that it is better to run with the strength with numbers theory. We do not over clock our leds keeping the heat down but lighting up 3X as much nanocrystalline material increasing the life span and the amount of light. Then we can only make special lights that allow us the room to do this. Our warehouse light and street light retro fit are the best on the market for cost, life, light spread, and light produced. The picture is our 40 watt light in a cobra head street light.

Ocean Clear L.E.D. Solutions

Check us out.

Cheers Don.

 

[grsthegreat]

Well the 50,000 hour ratings are guesses based on a heat soak test. They run the 24/7 in a heated room around 85-90*C till they fail. Then calculated back to math out the average life.

We have some LEDs that last 100,000 hours that run 12 volts. The problem is they are not quite as bright in the light they produce. When you start to jamb the power to them and over clock them you need a large heat sink like an aluminum block or finned rad to cool them. Leaving them on 24/7 is harder on them and will degrade their life much faster because they can't get rid of the heat and will cook the nanocrystalline, the little yellow part of the led that glows making the light.

Our company has found that it is better to run with the strength with numbers theory. We do not over clock our leds keeping the heat down but lighting up 3X as much nanocrystalline material increasing the life span and the amount of light. Then we can only make special lights that allow us the room to do this. Our warehouse light and street light retro fit are the best on the market for cost, life, light spread, and light produced. The picture is our 40 watt light in a cobra head street light.

Ocean Clear L.E.D. Solutions

Check us out.

Cheers Don.

you sell in the US? I like tyhe looks of your par30s.....much better than the ones ive seen here


I also read an article that talks about overclocking the light to increase output. The LED loses output over time, and overclocking brightens them back up. Problem is the heat produced kills the electronics.

 

[dirtdevil911]

you sell in the US? I like tyhe looks of your par30s.....much better than the ones ive seen here


I also read an article that talks about overclocking the light to increase output. The LED loses output over time, and overclocking brightens them back up. Problem is the heat produced kills the electronics.

Yes we are UL listed for the US with our par30's. Just about everyone now overclocks the LED now but they do not cap the voltage the LED's see's so the heat sink is the cap. See we run the second wave of the AC sign wave back into the circuit using a line rectifier. DC is only one signwave and AC is two. To take out the flicker and double our DC voltage we use a line rectifier to pump the other half of the AC sign wave back in doubling our light output and cutting our 100,000 hour life to 50,000. To make sure we hit the 50,000 we cap the voltage the array of LED's see's. We then eliminate the need for the aluminum heat sink.

Our par30 4 watt lamp runs $29 Canadian each. Par20's are as low as $18.99 each. As you can see from our picture gallery on our web site the par30 is really close to the 75 watt incandescent and our 3 watt par20 is really close to the 50 watt halogen. None are dimable yet. The par30 will be soon patent and UL listing pending. We have more room in the par30 than the par20. The par20 and GU10 will take some time making the chips smaller still.

Feel free to Email me at don@oceanclear.ca and I can have some shipped out interested.

Cheers Don.