Kioti DK Throttle lubrication with pix

[k0ua]

Today I decided to finally get around to lubing the very stiff hand throttle of my DK35se. It was always stiff and not getting any better with age. First challenge is to figure out how to remove the two "clam-shells" of the upper and lower cover around the steering column. The two holes at the top were a little bit of a mystery, as there did not seem to be a bolt or screw in the holes when probed with a screwdriver, all I got was dirt and rust. They seem to just be holes to allow water to get down into to rust the ends of the 10 Millimeter bolts that go in from the bottom.

They are part of the manufacturing process of the moulded in imbedded nuts I suppose. Any way you remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a small impact ( I used my Rockwell Thrill on impact mode). They have phillips head crosses in them too but you are not going to get these top two off with a screwdriver for sure as they will be rusted. Note I recommend dropping some lube down those holes at least once a year, I intend to, even though my tractor rarely sits in the ran any more.

After removing all of the bolts, you press in on the bottom on both sides of the top clam shell piece to release some small moulded in catches. You Then unfasten the Molex connector on the left side that contains all of the connections for the Key switch.. I lubed up all of the moving parts. but the main part that did the most good was to apply some Kroil to the top part of the friction washer underneath the piece of metal the throttle handle is welded to. This is put on very tightly with 17 MM nuts in a double nutted fashion and probably with an Impact.

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.

Of course re-assemble (you will enjoy getting everything lined back up) and you are done. Now the throttle is many ft. lbs less torque to operate, but still has enough tension to not vibrate around. Of course this would also be the way you would replace the notorious key switch.. I had a few intermittent contacts at first with the key-switch about 140 hours and over a year ago, when the tractor used to sit out in the rain, But I sprayed some Fluid Film in the switch, and have had no more trouble since then. Of course it doesn't sit out in the rain very often any more either. Thanks for Looking.

James K0UA

 

[Coyote machine]

Good description James. Maybe you should start a thread with pics of fixes and such, which might get 'stickeyd' for reference for those looking for certain common issue solutions?
We ought to have something like that to use as easy reference...:confused3:

 

[Damifino]

Thanks James, that was right on time, I have been dealing with the same issue since day one, I will be out there today to tackle this issue, I don't have any Kroil but do have Fluid Film.
Thanks again for taking the time to detail your experience.
Will apply some dielectric grease to Molex connecter while i'm already there.

 

[caver]

I didn't lube the friction plate but did take it off to look at it (upper right hand first photo). My problem was that little roller. That throttle lever pin is sliding and trying to turn that roller at the same time. That's why it would hang up at idle. When I would come off idle there was a sticky spot as the pin met that roller. It got so bad I had to hit downward on the throttle lever with the bottom of my fist to break it off idle. Me thinks Kioti should have made that roller out of a piece of Delrin.

 

[k0ua]

I didn't lube the friction plate but did take it off to look at it (upper right hand first photo). My problem was that little roller. That throttle lever pin is sliding and trying to turn that roller at the same time. That's why it would hang up at idle. When I would come off idle there was a sticky spot as the pin met that roller. It got so bad I had to hit downward on the throttle lever with the bottom of my fist to break it off idle. Me thinks Kioti should have made that roller out of a piece of Delrin.

Yes I noticed the double movement on the roller too, sliding and rolling. but I pushed the roller back with one hand and tried to operate the throttle with the other, and the source of the majority of the friction with mine was just the "friction washer".. It never was easy to operate when new, and seemed to be getting worse. It took the Kroil to break it loose. I went ahead and shot some Fluid Film down the throttle cable while I was at it. I did that several times. I really noticed how hard the throttle was becoming to operate when I jumped on my BIL's new Kubota the other day and yanked on the throttle, and of course it moved so easily, I had forgotten how easy it should be to operate the throttle. Anyway, all is easy and smooth now.

James K0UA

 

[kco]

Thanks for the photos and procedure. I will do the same with mine since it has always been a bit harder to operate than I'd like.

 

[rmorey]

Good thread James. I agree with CM, it would be good to have an archive of all these little, but important fixes. :thumbsup:

Funny, when they come that way, you assume they are supposed to be that way.

 

[4bama1]

I have a Dk45se and did not like the stiffness of the throttle either.I opened up the column and sprayed everything down but did not help at all.I loosened the jam {two nuts on throttle assembly inside the column} nuts up just a fraction so that there is still tension and reset them.Now it is so smooth and holds the throttle with no problem.I recommend this adjustment to anyone with this problem.

 

[murphy1244]

I have a Dk45se and did not like the stiffness of the throttle either.I opened up the column and sprayed everything down but did not help at all.I loosened the jam {two nuts on throttle assembly inside the column} nuts up just a fraction so that there is still tension and reset them.Now it is so smooth and holds the throttle with no problem.I recommend this adjustment to anyone with this problem.

How did you loosen the double nuts? I can't get mine to budge.

 

[4bama1]

I put a wrench on each one and it broke free easily.
Make sure you are turning them in opposite directions. Upper nut turn right bottom turn left.

 

[Coyote machine]

Here are some more pics to add to the thread from my own recent repair to the throttle adjustment:

Explanation of pics in next post below VVVVVVVV

 

[murphy1244]

I put a wrench on each one and it broke free easily.
Make sure you are turning them in opposite directions. Upper nut turn right bottom turn left.

17mm?

 

[Coyote machine]

The double nuts shown above, in pic #3, loosened after taking the throttle mechanism completely apart, and covering anything and everything that can or should move with liberal amounts of copper anti-seize. The nuts are best loosened by putting two box end wrenches on them then loosening the bottom nut then the top nut. You get your final adjustment by snugging the bottom against the top once you've attained the desired amount of tension in the throttle lever movement. Caution to not go too loose on the tension after being used to it being too tight. What I suggest is set things up and leave the clamshell covers off until you've used the throttle for a while and if it's OK then close up the rest, and don't forget the throttle boot goes in between the two clamshell halves.

The rest of the pics are from different angles side and top views of the entire assembly. When re-installing the two clamshell bolts, first clean all the rust off and coat them with copper antiseize. Once the entire assembly is closed back up one can either tape off the top holes to keep water out or stuff liberal amounts of grease/antiseize in the holes, or both, to keep them from rusting shut.

Spray some cable lube of one's choice down the tube in which the throttle cable rides for extra protection and you should be good to go for a very long time.:thumbsup:
Hope the pics help....

 

[Coyote machine]

17mm?

I believe so....

 

[SPYDERLK]

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.
James K0UA

Give Chain Wax a try one of these days. It may fill a gap in the "tool" arsenal.:confused3:
larry

 

[kco]

Today I decided to finally get around to lubing the very stiff hand throttle of my DK35se. It was always stiff and not getting any better with age. First challenge is to figure out how to remove the two "clam-shells" of the upper and lower cover around the steering column. The two holes at the top were a little bit of a mystery, as there did not seem to be a bolt or screw in the holes when probed with a screwdriver, all I got was dirt and rust. They seem to just be holes to allow water to get down into to rust the ends of the 10 Millimeter bolts that go in from the bottom.

They are part of the manufacturing process of the moulded in imbedded nuts I suppose. Any way you remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a small impact ( I used my Rockwell Thrill on impact mode). They have phillips head crosses in them too but you are not going to get these top two off with a screwdriver for sure as they will be rusted. Note I recommend dropping some lube down those holes at least once a year, I intend to, even though my tractor rarely sits in the ran any more.

After removing all of the bolts, you press in on the bottom on both sides of the top clam shell piece to release some small moulded in catches. You Then unfasten the Molex connector on the left side that contains all of the connections for the Key switch.. I lubed up all of the moving parts. but the main part that did the most good was to apply some Kroil to the top part of the friction washer underneath the piece of metal the throttle handle is welded to. This is put on very tightly with 17 MM nuts in a double nutted fashion and probably with an Impact.

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.

Of course re-assemble (you will enjoy getting everything lined back up) and you are done. Now the throttle is many ft. lbs less torque to operate, but still has enough tension to not vibrate around. Of course this would also be the way you would replace the notorious key switch.. I had a few intermittent contacts at first with the key-switch about 140 hours and over a year ago, when the tractor used to sit out in the rain, But I sprayed some Fluid Film in the switch, and have had no more trouble since then. Of course it doesn't sit out in the rain very often any more either. Thanks for Looking.View attachment 329237View attachment 329238

James K0UA

Although this is an old thread it came in handy for me today. My DK35se's throttle stuck at full open (not a runaway, just stuck). The lever or cable was binding at the steering column end. I could not push it to the idle position. I was able to slow it down by pulling the cable back at the engine end, but I still could not move it with the throttle lever.

I removed the three bolts from the steering column upper clamshell but could not figure how to get them apart. I removed the lower clamshell so I could look up into the upper one, but still could not figure how to get it apart.

Stumped, I came inside and searched for this thread. K0ua's instructions in this thread's first post gave me the answer, and it was easy from there.

I took the opportunity to loosen and lubricate the throttle linkage as described, something I have been putting off for 1.5 years. It works much better now.

Thanks for the excellent instructions James K0ua, and TractorByNet in general for being such a good resource.

 

[k0ua]

Although this is an old thread it came in handy for me today. My DK35se's throttle stuck at full open (not a runaway, just stuck). The lever or cable was binding at the steering column end. I could not push it to the idle position. I was able to slow it down by pulling the cable back at the engine end, but I still could not move it with the throttle lever.

I removed the three bolts from the steering column upper clamshell but could not figure how to get them apart. I removed the lower clamshell so I could look up into the upper one, but still could not figure how to get it apart.

Stumped, I came inside and searched for this thread. K0ua's instructions in this thread's first post gave me the answer, and it was easy from there.

I took the opportunity to loosen and lubricate the throttle linkage as described, something I have been putting off for 1.5 years. It works much better now.

Thanks for the excellent instructions James K0ua, and TractorByNet in general for being such a good resource.

I am glad to have helped you. As a matter of fact you have helped me before, and I am glad to return the favor.:thumbsup:

 

[Looking4new]

K0ua, I've got the silver never seize. That would work just as good, wouldn't it?

 

[k0ua]

K0ua, I've got the silver never seize. That would work just as good, wouldn't it?

I think any good lube would work. I like the fluid film because it is easy to apply and lubes well .

 

[JeffandTamara]

My DK35 suffers from the same problem. Is there any lubrication / cleaning that you can get to without pulling the dash off? Working from memory it looks like it might be a lot of work and I worry that I might endup tearing up more than I fix