Loader Yanmar F18D hydraulic query

[Car Doc]

I already mentioned you have the fittings. The collar Hoye mentions is already on the line and there is a banjo on (my guess is) the return to sump is there also if you got bolts with it to attach those 2 fittings you are almost here. An example return to sump could be right on top of your transmission that a longer banjo bolt could be used but that's a guess as well. I would cut the lines as a last resort that is a lousy way of doing it. This pic is the collar btw. Also I would be using a straight fitting rather than a banjo as a return but it would get you going just would not flow as much as a straight thru fitting. fwtw

 

[rmacAU]

The seller doesn't have any that I can look at unfortunately.

Cutting into the line is what I had done on the Mitsubishi as it had no other option. I also had a man locally, with experience in hydraulics, to do it. He has gone and died on me though!

I agree with you Car Doc: Cutting the lines is pretty 'agricultural' - a bit like tying things up with wire rather than using a bolt!

 

[Car Doc]

We call that "rigging" or "engineering" or closer to your analogy "hay wiring" its certainly not a term of endearment. Agricultural is a new one on me haha. :laughing: :thumbsup:

 

[rmacAU]

We call that "rigging" or "engineering" or closer to your analogy "hay wiring" its certainly not a term of endearment. Agricultural is a new one on me haha. :laughing: :thumbsup:

It goes back to the days when farmers had to make do - being isolated from parts and assistance they became experts at 'fixing' things and were renowned for their ingenuity So anything that is not custom made, particularly if it is a bit rough and ready, is 'agricultural' - something a town dweller would have bought a part for.

 

[Car Doc]

Can you post a pic of your pump and your diverter block? On our YM's the pump is at the right front of the engine and the diverter block is on the right also but about where the steering column/bell housing is.

 

[rmacAU]

Can you post a pic of your pump and your diverter block? On our YM's the pump is at the right front of the engine and the diverter block is on the right also but about where the steering column/bell housing is.

It is now difficult to photograph the HP pump but I've taken several to show the path of the HP line in red and the supply/inlet line in green.
The supply comes in at the top. The HP out is via a banjo fitting with four retaining bolts at the bottom of the pump.


Under the HP pump would be the place to use the HoyeTractor attachment but how do you bend the HP pipe to get it out of the way - short of unbolting it and trying to remove it?

There doesn't seem to be any break in the HP line between the pump and the rear. It wends its way around, under and over until it comes up and is attached by a banjo fitting with a central bolt. This is on the front of the assembly, under the cover beneath the seat.

I've attached a pic (last one mainly red in colour) of the face of the underseat arrangement. You can see "C" the HP line coming to a banjo, "A" the spindle for the 3PL control (rate of descent and lock) as well as "B" the hexagonal extension that protrudes through the cover plate.

 

[J_J]

I don't see a big problem, I agree with Aaron at Hoyetractor .

People with Yanmars and other tractors have done it this way before.

Use flare fittings.

Flareless Compression Tube Fittings > Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

Cut a section out and install the flare fittings and run the pressure side to the IN port of the loader valve, and run the PB port to the other side of the cut line, and run the OUT port to any return hose or filler cap.

That is all there is to it.

Less than $20 for parts and you are done.

 

[rmacAU]

I don't see a big problem, I agree with Aaron at Hoyetractor .

People with Yanmars and other tractors have done it this way before.

Use flare fittings.

Flareless Compression Tube Fittings > Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

Cut a section out and install the flare fittings and run the pressure side to the IN port of the loader valve, and run the PB port to the other side of the cut line, and run the OUT port to any return hose or filler cap.

That is all there is to it.

Less than $20 for parts and you are done.

Thanks for that suggestion. I'll keep it in mind but it will mean an eighty mile round trip to get the parts.

I understand the HP line from the pressure line to the loader. Then the return line to somewhere (to tap into the low pressure feed line is an $80 flare fitting) but I don't know what a PB port is
so I don't understand your suggestion to "... run the PB port to the other side of the cut line ..."

 

[J_J]

When you split your line, cut out a small section and install a flare with the fitting that matches your hose end, and connect that pressure line to the loader valve IN port.

The other side of the line you cut will connect to the PB port. This is necessary for downstream valves.

Now run the OUT hose to the filler cap. Less than $20 US

If your loader valve does not have PB, then connect the cut line from the 3pt to the OUT port on the loader valve.

Flare fittings should not cost what you say. We are talking less than $5 US.

EXAMPLE

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/27205.htm

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/27405.htm

Your loader valve will now be in series with the flow path from pump to loader valve , to 3pt, then to tank.

 

[kenmac]

If you don't want to drive 80 miles for fittings. See if you can order from hoye. Of course, this option may cost more than the 80 mile trip.