Ford 1700 starting problems

cjfling · Aug 24, 2013

jones6780 said:
Before I bought parts I would isolate the problem. I would disconnect everything from the starter, clean and replace only the battery leads. Check the battery connections and the ground connection. I would then use a jumper/screwdriver to check starter operation. If it doesn't turn over you still have a battery/grounding/starter problem. If the starter works move to the next item.

Russell

Russell,

I've done all that. When doing the screw driver part the starter spins, but the fan/engine only moves a few inches. I'd like to not waste money on parts also, but if the repair people say the existing is bad, I don't think it will be a waste? I'm not extremely mechanical, but I'm willing to learn and try suggestions. I appreciate the input!

Jason

mostly_gas · Aug 26, 2013

Cj, if he tractor does not crank properly with the key off and using screwdriver or remote switch then you have a battery or cable/connections or starter problem. What is the battery voltage during cranking. How are the cable connections and grounds?

cjfling · Aug 26, 2013

mostly_gas said:
Cj, if he tractor does not crank properly with the key off and using screwdriver or remote switch then you have a battery or cable/connections or starter problem. What is the battery voltage during cranking. How are the cable connections and grounds?

OK, I've replaced the battery connectors and cleaned the ground off the battery. The battery itself is new, but I know that doesn't mean much sometimes. I'll have to check the battery voltage at cranking the next time I'm there. I plan to look for and clean other grounds the next time as well. I got a wiring schematic, so it should help me locate them. Thx!

jones6780 · Aug 26, 2013

There is only 1 ground. Follow the neg battery cable to where ever it bolts to the frame/engine block.

nsmithnd · Aug 26, 2013

As I recall, the negative on mine bolted to the battery tray, which bolts to the frame. The battery tray to frame bolts were rusty and corroded which caused issues. When I replaced the cable (and bolts) I picked up an extra negative to run from the battery tray to the frame. Haven't had any problems since.

cjfling · Aug 26, 2013

nsmithnd said:
As I recall, the negative on mine bolted to the battery tray, which bolts to the frame. The battery tray to frame bolts were rusty and corroded which caused issues. When I replaced the cable (and bolts) I picked up an extra negative to run from the battery tray to the frame. Haven't had any problems since.

Your right about the tray & mine is pretty bad. That was on my list to replace when I get the thing running. The extra strap couldn't hurt. I did hook jumper cables up to the negative post and a spot on the frame at one point, but it might not have had good frame contact. Thanks!

cjfling · Sep 5, 2013

For an update, I got the alt and key switch in and installed. I installed the alt first and got the same result as before, but the alt wasn't getting super hot anymore. Then I went to install the switch. I pulled the fuel tank, which was mentioned in another post, to get access to the backside of the instrument panel. I also removed a support member for the panel. After noting all the connections, I swapped the switch, and that did the trick. The switch was shorting I guess. I don't have the tractor running yet, but it is turning over now. I need to purge the fuel system and I'm hoping that will get it running. Thanks for everyone's help.

cjfling · Sep 9, 2013

Additional update. I got the fuel system purged and the tractor running. I was real excited as this was a big accomplishment for me and my limited skills/experience. Again thanks to everyone for the help. I went ahead and shredded with it for a hour to heat things up and changed the oil, oil filter, and added the fuel filter (prior owner had ran without one). It does have a lot of mostly white smoke on start up for 5 or six minute and the power lift drops right away when the engine is killed. I know someone had a post on here about a seal or o ring that was originally plastic and been replaced by a rubber one that fixed that issue. Anyone have a link to that?