Shop Air System Install

[SPIKER]

The one line (Blue) is PEX-AL-PEX used for in floor heating systems 300 PSI rating at 175F I think. can be had at many places in plumbing departments or Heating contractors. I have seen Copper and Black Iron as common solutions old school and work well. Copper prices are nuts but as said easy to work with when you do them though be sure to run your outlet UP a few inches then back over and down to keep anything that gets in the main line from falling down into air hose and or tool. Be sure to use flexible connection from compressor to wall and into main regulator with drip leg after a shutoff valve on compressor Ball valve works best to have quick shutoff. I have 2nd ball valve on main drip leg to drain out water. One day that will be run out of shop so I can purge air /water outside.

Mark

 

[ericher69]

Installed 6.5hp 60 gallon compressor with a 5/8 ID rubber/PVC air hose as supply. The supply hose is connected to a 3 port femal fitting on the compressor. 2 are spare for portable air hoses.

Goes to a pipe style desiccant dryer with ball valve on the bottom then to an air filter then to a dual 50ft air reel.

This setup has worked well for my needs. Cabinet sandblaster, spark plug cleaner and a few other stationary air tools are not connected.

When needed I just plug in one of the 2 hoses from the air reels.

Will post a few pics tomorrow.

 

[cmyoung2]

I used 1" black iron pipe, full length of the shop with connects every 10" on risers. My supply line is on a sill. about 10" off the floor, every 10' there is T with a up pipe to get the connection point about 4' off the floor(so I can find it Line has drains @ the low points, compressor is hooked to the supply line with a hydraulic hose, compressor is outside to reduce noise. Have one hose reel hooked up near the grease pit, but that hose can reach most of the shop and outside the main door. Main reason the risers are 10' apart is that was the standard length of the threaded pipe at out local store. I don't have pipe threading equipment, so I just bought what was available and mad it work. As mentioned, stay away from PVC, and I really don't like a plain rubber type air hose for the supply line leading from the compressor. Rubber sometimes can't handle the oil and heat. One of those--- don't ask me how I know--- That's why I spent the money and used hydraulic hose for that connection. Shop wide air availability is nice, spend the time to get it right.

 

[grsthegreat]

I piped my shop with the heavy duty (blue) copper about 10 years ago. Glad i did it when i did, cause i sure couldnt afford to do it nowdays. That alum pipe looks like the new ticket.

I also used a 1" hyd flex line between compressor and the dryer. Didnt want vibration to enter the lines.

I use a cheap harbor freight $400.00 refrigerated air dryer on my system, and LOVE it. Have had it over 6 years now, and its 99.999% eliminates water in the air output. I have a paper filter system downline from the refrigerated unit, and i check this filter every few months. Its 6 years old, and not a lick of moisture.

I also have 2 separate 50' auto retract air line mechanisms, one at each end of the shop. I use those all the times for misc air tool use in addition to the ports i installed.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Copper is the way to go. For a 150# system use type M as it is cheaper. On those drops for the outlets either loop out of the top of the main or use solid pipe down to a drain trap. I always put a valve and pressure regulator at each outlet and operate the main at max compressor pressure. You will get water in your air otherwise. Always grade the pipe away from the supply point and put a drain drop on the end of line. If you will be using more than one outlet at a time recommend you loop the system round and back to the inlet, you will never experience pressure drop when opening and closing outlets that are in use; equalizes the pressure at all system points. I do this with outside water hydrants when I want to cover a rectangular or circle area. On a loop system use 3/4 or 1" minimum pipe size depending on CFM capacity.

Ron

 

[extrakt0r]

I have used PVC in all my installations at both my homes. Works fine. Not sure why PVC gets such a bad rep. Burst and max operating pressures are well beyond what any weekend warrior will be pumping from their air tank.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

 

[grsthegreat]

I have used PVC in all my installations at both my homes. Works fine. Not sure why PVC gets such a bad rep. Burst and max operating pressures are well beyond what any weekend warrior will be pumping from their air tank.

PVC Pipes - Pressure Ratings

the main problem with plastic piping is if it gets very cold, the burst rate increases. And when exposed plastic pipe goes thru alot of hot/cold cycles, it really degrades.

I have PERSONALLY seen plastic air line that had blown up. It does happen.

 

[Shield Arc]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

 

[grsthegreat]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

thats redneck all right hehe

 

[bigtiller]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

Interesting.... Is the garbage can just a shield to protect the coil from dirt and damage?