I can't decipher ***** from the pics, but from what you say about the tree it is a two man job. One to run a saw and another to use your tractor and a cable with snatch block to put some tension on the tree BEFORE cutting anything in a direction that the tree cannot fall toward the tractor or OP.
I used to work as a pro tree surgeon a long time ago; and I still do fell a lot of precarious trees and parts of trees. There is NO substitute for being there as far as giving useful advice- so, with that in mind, heed all precautions, regarding personal safety, FIRST. Clear the ground around the tree base for sawyer escape paths. Fully fueled saw with properly tensioned and sharp chain. Wedges, mallets to hammer wedges, and someone other than sawyer to call out any 'snags' in procedure.
Do it when there is NO wind. Place the cable as high as reasonable without risking climber. Hold ladder while climber places cable/rope. Cut pie at level line toward intended direction of fall. Cut, backcut WHILE tensioning cable, slowly and steady. Once tree is moving in direction of fall continue to cut while ready to escape on planned route. Don't cut through the hinge, (to keep tree from taking a different direction to fall or to twist on it's way down). Use wedges as needed. Tractor OP should be steadily pulling until tree is clearly going to land in intended path of fall. If anything goes wrong both sawyer and tractor OP should be ready and able to abandon the area without hesitation.
This type work would be best done and safest for all concerned if pros were to take the tree down.
If not possible, then a tractor or similar machine with a logging winch would be ideal, vs. just a tensioned cable.
You can learn from experience, BUT remember there is NO room for error with this type of work. Error is what kills people doing tree work of this level of difficulty.