the old grind
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
- Messages
- 4,412
- Location
- Mid-Michigan
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- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
Dodge man, good that you're using Garand-specific load data.
Since SAAMI chamber dimensions are 'spec' +.xxx"/-.000" and ammo dims are 'spec' +.000"/-.xxx" it's good to know whether the recommended use of 'small base' dies is in fact needed for your app. ('tolerance') No two dies can be expected to size identically, just to 'within spec'. Check your fired brass vs sized, measuring just below the shoulder and just above the extractor groove. Compare them to unfired 'factories' to be sure where you are and whether your reloads will feed properly.
I use SB dies for some .30-06, .308, & .223 (semi-auto vs for bolt gun), and always for .30 RAR (semi-only). Overworking brass by sizing more than necessary will shorten its life due to work-hardening, the reason we anneal necks after 'x' reloads. Brass doesn't last forever.
Until .380 ammo becomes cheaper than 9x19 (not likely ever) it's a good one to reload for vs say 9mm Makarov with all that cheap steel-cased Euro mil stuff (toss-up there for most). Plinking or training loads ought to be affordable. Handloaded PD ammo is another situation, and another discusssion I hope won't side-track this thread. Loading for what you shoot most will give the most feedback as you work out the details and get your rhythm about it.
Often times it's best to sort brass by the particular gun it's loaded for. 'One size fits all' seems to apply better to HGs than to rifle ammo, but case length may be most critical there with those cals that headspace on the case mouth. btw: 44 mag is among the easiest to reload for our beginners. (Heed all the 'Blue Dot' warnings and start with a 'forgiving' powder there such as Alliant 2400. Work up to H110/Win296 later & with experience). :2cents:
I use SB dies for some .30-06, .308, & .223 (semi-auto vs for bolt gun), and always for .30 RAR (semi-only). Overworking brass by sizing more than necessary will shorten its life due to work-hardening, the reason we anneal necks after 'x' reloads. Brass doesn't last forever.
Until .380 ammo becomes cheaper than 9x19 (not likely ever) it's a good one to reload for vs say 9mm Makarov with all that cheap steel-cased Euro mil stuff (toss-up there for most). Plinking or training loads ought to be affordable. Handloaded PD ammo is another situation, and another discusssion I hope won't side-track this thread. Loading for what you shoot most will give the most feedback as you work out the details and get your rhythm about it.
Often times it's best to sort brass by the particular gun it's loaded for. 'One size fits all' seems to apply better to HGs than to rifle ammo, but case length may be most critical there with those cals that headspace on the case mouth. btw: 44 mag is among the easiest to reload for our beginners. (Heed all the 'Blue Dot' warnings and start with a 'forgiving' powder there such as Alliant 2400. Work up to H110/Win296 later & with experience). :2cents: