Portable buildings

   / Portable buildings #21  
Eddie, I'm starting to think about that, our humidity here is always 95 percent or better in the summer! The buildings I was looking at are kinda high, a 14 x 24 is 6495 delivered

About 5 yrs ago I priced a 12x24 portable $3600 1 garage door no windows made out of the thin metal. I built the same building except. I used wood & built it better for 1/2 the price. You can go by any building supply tell them the size you want, etc, they will figure the cost of materials for you so, you don't have to go through and price ever item
 
   / Portable buildings
  • Thread Starter
#22  
What is your situation with Codes? Sure, you can under the radar it but that generally catches up with you. I guess in the end it depends on how much you want to spend, what compromises you are willing to make and what amount of labor you can put in. There are some very cool modern architecture designs for small homes on the net. Also, in WA we are seeing a lot of these "permanent" motor homes. They look like log cabins. Have a bedroom in the balcony. Small but functional In Stock Models Ready For You! 72 Modern Cabin Retreats - From Modern Wood Cabin Residences to Glittering Mountain Homes (TOPLIST)
Woodland, codes are not a issue here, especially in rural areas. But it will be done right as far as that goes! I don't cut corners on my work, I thought the portable building would be the way to go, but Eddies made some sensible points and when you start putting the pencil to it , I can build a shop style as cheap, and being wrapped in 40 year tin not worry about maintence and have a cabin that's easy on the pocketbook! Thanks LUTT. Those are neat cabins by the way!!!
 
   / Portable buildings
  • Thread Starter
#23  
About 5 yrs ago I priced a 12x24 portable $3600 1 garage door no windows made out of the thin metal. I built the same building except. I used wood & built it better for 1/2 the price. You can go by any building supply tell them the size you want, etc, they will figure the cost of materials for you so, you don't have to go through and price ever item
That's what I'm getting into on the figures, I can build and finish a 24 x 30 about as cheap as a portable, and it will be on a slab LUTT
 
   / Portable buildings #24  
I don't know about cost for preparing a good base for the 4'' or so slab. I built mine like the portable buildings with skids so, I can move it if I need to
 
   / Portable buildings #25  
Lutt
A couple things to consider on tankless water heaters. First off they usually require a 110v outlet to operate. Any 15 or 20 amp circuit will be fine. Does not need to be dedicated circuit, just an outlet.
Second, when trying to figure gas usage, remember that 1, the max usage is ONLY at max flow and 2, a 2 GPM rating is HOT WATER. You will will rarely run 100% hot water, we usually always mix at least 60-40 or sometimes less, depending on the season.

Elec units do not heat as fast, and require 220v dedicated circuits, usually 40 amp or more depending on size.

My home unit is a Rinai, and is rated at 180,000 btu. My home furnace, is a high efficiency unit (95%) rated 140,000. My propane consumption is very low overall. We heat our home about 70-80% with wood, and water 100% propane. We also cook with propane.

The advantage of the elec units is they can be sized for precise point of use, and since they are much lower in price you can have more than one. Mine supplies the whole house, but I now wish I had elec units under the sinks in both bathrooms because it takes a long time to get hot water to wash hands with. My house is 2150 sq ft so quite a bit larger than your proposed cabin.

If you can design it so the water use points are all near the unit you can easily get by with one, and not ever have to worry about it when not there. The nice thing about most of the gas units is they are so efficient at drawing the heat from the gas, they usually only require PVC for flue pipes.
 
   / Portable buildings
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Lutt A couple things to consider on tankless water heaters. First off they usually require a 110v outlet to operate. Any 15 or 20 amp circuit will be fine. Does not need to be dedicated circuit, just an outlet. Second, when trying to figure gas usage, remember that 1, the max usage is ONLY at max flow and 2, a 2 GPM rating is HOT WATER. You will will rarely run 100% hot water, we usually always mix at least 60-40 or sometimes less, depending on the season. Elec units do not heat as fast, and require 220v dedicated circuits, usually 40 amp or more depending on size. My home unit is a Rinai, and is rated at 180,000 btu. My home furnace, is a high efficiency unit (95%) rated 140,000. My propane consumption is very low overall. We heat our home about 70-80% with wood, and water 100% propane. We also cook with propane. The advantage of the elec units is they can be sized for precise point of use, and since they are much lower in price you can have more than one. Mine supplies the whole house, but I now wish I had elec units under the sinks in both bathrooms because it takes a long time to get hot water to wash hands with. My house is 2150 sq ft so quite a bit larger than your proposed cabin. If you can design it so the water use points are all near the unit you can easily get by with one, and not ever have to worry about it when not there. The nice thing about most of the gas units is they are so efficient at drawing the heat from the gas, they usually only require PVC for flue pipes.
Thanks, that is some useful info I can use! LUTT
 
   / Portable buildings #27  
Lutt
Looks like you've "expanded" your goals. A 24x30 will be plenty. We built a new home almost 4 years ago now, and I added a 24x30 workshop. For a cost comparison I will try to give you as complete a breakdown as I can remember. I had the slab done by pro's, and it included a 12" slab on grade reinforced footing, and 4" reinforced slab. My cost was a flat $5 per sq ft, concrete included. I helped some by tractoring in the fill dirt and compacting the fill under the slab. My lot there has a slight slope to it, so that one footing was was closer to 28" high and 12" above grade, while the other sits only about 6" above grade.

The unit is stick built on site, 2x6 walls, with 10ft ceiling. No drywall or insulation inside. I wrapped the vapor barrier myself, and hung my walk out door, and both single hung windows. The roof is 4-12 pitch truss with attic trusses, stressed for storage. That leaves my a 4ft x 7ft x 30 ft storage area in my rafters, un impeded by bracing. I floored that area with 3/8" OSB. I also ran all my own electrical, and had my 8ft H x 12ft W sectional garage door professionally hung, as well as the Hardy board lap siding. I bought all my materials from the blueprint list and had them delivered onsite, as well as the trusses. The same contractor that did my concrete also did my framing. He also did the same jobs on my house.

I hired some workers, that I knew had the skills and experience to hang my siding, and they worked hourly for me. I also bought the roofing materials and had them delivered on the roof and hired a roofing contractor to lay them. I would have done that myself but had just recently injured my back and couldn't lean that much. Cost there was $65 per sq. (10ft x 10ft)

All told I have about $15,000 in the shop. That includes the aluminum sectional garage door, with top row of windows (lites) in it, and steel exterior walk out door and 2 single hung double pane windows. I used those cause someday it might get insulated.

That also included all my California permits (about $1500 total IIRC). CA codes are strict and I avoided engineering fees by going by standard construction methods, like min of 5ft from any corner to any opening, or at least 5ft from any opening to any other opening. Also 2x6 studs and max of 10ft walls.

A couple things to consider, that I would do if I were to ever repeat this job. I would have gotten trusses with a "knee wall" and the attic truss. THe knee wall would have added to the overall height of the roof, but still kept my walls to 10ft. My "attic" would then have been 6ft high (instead of 4ft) and 7ft wide, much better to walk in. You could easily sleep there.

If funds and codes permit, make it stressed for 2 story. You do not have to build it as 2 story to start, but the extra room WILL be appreciated later on. That was what I really wanted but after the home build I was running low on funds, and to go a 2 story route would require engineering and a much heavier slab, would have cost my about 10K more after all was done. Plus CA had just implemented a new code requiring fire sprinklers in any building over 1000 sq ft. I only have 3 acres and couldn't get it in as an AG building. They require 20 acres min to qualify for that here. That would have made it much cheaper. But such is life.

Sorry for the long post and hope it helps some.
 
   / Portable buildings #28  
Lutt, what is your plans for the future of the property. I ask because if you ever plan to sell, having something cool will go a long way to jacking the price up on the property. Meaning I think you could possibly build more than a square box if you got creative. Heck. some really cool fold open shipping containers homes are great, as well as just craigslisting for building materials can land you some great stuff.

What I am getting at is for not a ton of money you could build something "modern" or hip or woodsy that would add to the value of the property and maybe your living experience. A square shop with windows and a door cutout is functional but a PITA to sell down the road.
 
   / Portable buildings
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Lutt Looks like you've "expanded" your goals. A 24x30 will be plenty. We built a new home almost 4 years ago now, and I added a 24x30 workshop. For a cost comparison I will try to give you as complete a breakdown as I can remember. I had the slab done by pro's, and it included a 12" slab on grade reinforced footing, and 4" reinforced slab. My cost was a flat $5 per sq ft, concrete included. I helped some by tractoring in the fill dirt and compacting the fill under the slab. My lot there has a slight slope to it, so that one footing was was closer to 28" high and 12" above grade, while the other sits only about 6" above grade. The unit is stick built on site, 2x6 walls, with 10ft ceiling. No drywall or insulation inside. I wrapped the vapor barrier myself, and hung my walk out door, and both single hung windows. The roof is 4-12 pitch truss with attic trusses, stressed for storage. That leaves my a 4ft x 7ft x 30 ft storage area in my rafters, un impeded by bracing. I floored that area with 3/8" OSB. I also ran all my own electrical, and had my 8ft H x 12ft W sectional garage door professionally hung, as well as the Hardy board lap siding. I bought all my materials from the blueprint list and had them delivered onsite, as well as the trusses. The same contractor that did my concrete also did my framing. He also did the same jobs on my house. I hired some workers, that I knew had the skills and experience to hang my siding, and they worked hourly for me. I also bought the roofing materials and had them delivered on the roof and hired a roofing contractor to lay them. I would have done that myself but had just recently injured my back and couldn't lean that much. Cost there was $65 per sq. (10ft x 10ft) All told I have about $15,000 in the shop. That includes the aluminum sectional garage door, with top row of windows (lites) in it, and steel exterior walk out door and 2 single hung double pane windows. I used those cause someday it might get insulated. That also included all my California permits (about $1500 total IIRC). CA codes are strict and I avoided engineering fees by going by standard construction methods, like min of 5ft from any corner to any opening, or at least 5ft from any opening to any other opening. Also 2x6 studs and max of 10ft walls. A couple things to consider, that I would do if I were to ever repeat this job. I would have gotten trusses with a "knee wall" and the attic truss. THe knee wall would have added to the overall height of the roof, but still kept my walls to 10ft. My "attic" would then have been 6ft high (instead of 4ft) and 7ft wide, much better to walk in. You could easily sleep there. If funds and codes permit, make it stressed for 2 story. You do not have to build it as 2 story to start, but the extra room WILL be appreciated later on. That was what I really wanted but after the home build I was running low on funds, and to go a 2 story route would require engineering and a much heavier slab, would have cost my about 10K more after all was done. Plus CA had just implemented a new code requiring fire sprinklers in any building over 1000 sq ft. I only have 3 acres and couldn't get it in as an AG building. They require 20 acres min to qualify for that here. That would have made it much cheaper. But such is life. Sorry for the long post and hope it helps some.
Thanks for the info, it is helpful! You guys are code poor out there! Back in the summer concrete was 99 a yard! My father n law just had a 24 x 24 put up with a lean to, concrete, and bubble wrap insulation for around 6800 of I'm thinking correctly, that's with a 9x7 garage door, walk door with studded walls, 8 feet on the sidewalks. That was labor also. It's a good looking building. They have been in business's since 97 and never heard anything bad about them. I'm thinking about having those guys build me a building on a slab. Pour it about ten feet or so longer for the front porch and put lean to on each side for storage! Then I can come in and wire and finish it myself! THANKS LUTT
 
   / Portable buildings
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Lutt, what is your plans for the future of the property. I ask because if you ever plan to sell, having something cool will go a long way to jacking the price up on the property. Meaning I think you could possibly build more than a square box if you got creative. Heck. some really cool fold open shipping containers homes are great, as well as just craigslisting for building materials can land you some great stuff. What I am getting at is for not a ton of money you could build something "modern" or hip or woodsy that would add to the value of the property and maybe your living experience. A square shop with windows and a door cutout is functional but a PITA to sell down the road.
that's not a bad idea, bit around here square shop homes are getting quite popular! I really don't ever plan on selling, but I learned a long time ago never say never! Lol! LUTT
 

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