Wheel chains fit the 3 point arms.

[rasorbackq]

Was not even thinking that I could flip the tire and gain more distance . Was going to wait til spring but I think I have a job to do on the weekend.

 

[bandaidmd]

I have outside swing chains on my Old B8200 and the chains were always hanging into them, on my box scrape I put the pins on the inside and gained the clearance i needed. My permanent solution was to mount my liftarms to the inside of my quickhitch, now the chains have clearance .

Longer pins from tsc and a pipe spacer between the sideplates.

 

[rasorbackq]

Are R4 tires directional? I can see an AG being directional.

R4 s are poor tires for traction in the mud and snow so I added chains.


bandaidMD. Some implements don't have pins to swap around to gain clearance.

 

[rasorbackq]

Any idea what the tires will weigh if they happen to fall over ? 17.5L x 24 " add 50 lbs of chain too.

 

[bandaidmd]

my filled ones weigh over 400 lbs. I use a atv jack when i take them off.

 

[Xfaxman]

Are R4 tires directional? I can see an AG being directional.

R4 s are poor tires for traction in the mud and snow so I added chains.


bandaidMD. Some implements don't have pins to swap around to gain clearance.

Yes, they are directional, but if you swap the rim and tire side to side without the center, and without turning them around. the rotation is the same as it was on the other side. It changes the tread width because of the width of mounting point and it is off center on the rim. That is why there are 4 widths shown in the chart.

Back when I had a tractor, I used a shop crane to handle the tires.

 

[RG1]

I had a Deere 4500 for several years. I didn't like the narrow setting the rears came in from the factory and wanted the front tires centered on the rears. So, me and my BIL swapped the rims on the center plate. Without fluid, one guy can pick the tire/rim combo up off the groun when it is laying flat and move it around pretty easily. Mine were 14.9X24 R1 tires.

Your center plate that bolts to the axle hub has loops of steel that the rim bolts go through to hold the rim to the center plate. You should have at least 8 different width setting adjustments with your rims. They look just about exactly like mine did. You can take the rim/tire combo off the center plate, move it to the opposite side of the tractor and then mount it on the opposite side of the loop from where they are now and gain 2.5" to 4.5" inches in width between the rear tires (your center plate should be about 1/4" thick and the loops are about 1.5-2" long themselves) just by that one change alone. This is without changing the way the center plate is facing now.

 

[Kioti Tom]

leave the center disc mounted the way they are now. What you want to do is put the center disc to the inside of the rim loops. The loops are mounted off center on the rim. you want the loops to be closer to the tractor and the center disc either to the inside or out side of the loops then to give you the spacing you need. The picture posted of the Kubota rims will show the off center loops. The positions I am referring to are the 2 right hand positions shown,
Good luck
Tom

 

[RG1]

leave the center disc mounted the way they are now. What you want to do is put the center disc to the inside of the rim loops. The loops are mounted off center on the rim. you want the loops to be closer to the tractor and the center disc either to the inside or out side of the loops then to give you the spacing you need. The picture posted of the Kubota rims will show the off center loops. The positions I am referring to are the 2 right hand positions shown,
Good luck
Tom

I think you're saying what I just did above you. However, he will have to place the rim on the opposite side of the loops from where they are now (he doesn't have a choice in whether they go inside or outside, only on the opposite side, if he wants to widen the spacing) when he moves the rims to the opposite side of the machine, or else the tread will be facing the wrong way. That is provided he leaves the center plate where it is now.

 

[Xfaxman]

I think you're saying what I just did above you. However, he will have to place the rim on the opposite side of the loops from where they are now (he doesn't have a choice in whether they go inside or outside, only on the opposite side, if he wants to widen the spacing) when he moves the rims to the opposite side of the machine, or else the tread will be facing the wrong way. That is provided he leaves the center plate where it is now.

I don't agree that they will face the wrong way.

Here are some better diagrams that show the 8 possibilities for the old Row Crop tractors.

His center plate is dished out and doesn't look like it would fit dished in, so that leaves 4 possibilities.
E, F, G and H, or the bottom row in the first diagram and 64 through 76 in the second diagram.

His is at position E, right now. He can jack up one side at a time, leave the center plate on the axle and move to F, or raise both sides, leave the centers on the axles and swap rims side to side, keeping the correct rotation and get G an H.

 

[rasorbackq]

Correct Xfaxman I am set at "E". My issue today is I planned to buy a 72 " blower. If I move the tires to "H" at 76 center to center that will put my outside edges at around 92 ". Should do some measuring today to see how wide the rear 96" blade is set at on an angle
There are several other blowers ranging from 6-7' that I can also look at. Although I do like the wider stance I have only small humps on the logging trail where a tip factor may appliy. I have no hills like others may have to deal with.

Tell you one thing ..... I have really learned a lot about tires and distance setting from this thread.

 

[rasorbackq]

Just measured my E set up distance center to center 52" . So 12" narrower than the chart. My rear blade is 90" set at its plow angle. Think I will haul it all apart to do some testing.

 

[RG1]

I don't agree that they will face the wrong way.

Here are some better diagrams that show the 8 possibilities for the old Row Crop tractors.
View attachment 357918 View attachment 357919
His center plate is dished out and doesn't look like it would fit dished in, so that leaves 4 possibilities.
E, F, G and H, or the bottom row in the first diagram and 64 through 76 in the second diagram.

His is at position E, right now. He can jack up one side at a time, leave the center plate on the axle and move to F, or raise both sides, leave the centers on the axles and swap rims side to side, keeping the correct rotation and get G an H.

View attachment 357921

Yes, that is correct.... sorta. I may not have made myself very clear, so if not, my bad.

What you said about moving tires from side to side is what I was pointing out in order to keep rotation the same if he wants to move out to the wider settings because the loops will be moved from the outer side of the rim to the inner side, so the tires have to go to the opposite side to keep rotation the same.

He will not be able to leave the dish on the axle to swap to any of the other positions though. The only way to get the rim on the opposite sides of the loops is by removing everything, even when the dish stays on the same side of the machine. It has to come off to get the loop on the opposite side of the dish. Probably still not making myself clear, but if you look at your diagrams and think about it for a second, you'll see what I am saying. I know from doing this very swap on my 4500.

 

[RG1]

Correct Xfaxman I am set at "E". My issue today is I planned to buy a 72 " blower. If I move the tires to "H" at 76 center to center that will put my outside edges at around 92 ". Should do some measuring today to see how wide the rear 96" blade is set at on an angle
There are several other blowers ranging from 6-7' that I can also look at. Although I do like the wider stance I have only small humps on the logging trail where a tip factor may appliy. I have no hills like others may have to deal with.

Tell you one thing ..... I have really learned a lot about tires and distance setting from this thread.

I think you will find that the best rear wheel spacing for all around use will be to use the setting that makes the fronts centered on the rears. I know my 7' rear blade would clear the entire width of the tractor when angled all the way, and I never once had a stability issue with them set like that. Set that way, they worked for perfect for drawn implements, or front mounted.

 

[rasorbackq]

If that write up was for me I understand ..................... that the dish has to be moved to the other side of the loop and that the tire goes on the other side to keep the rotation the same.
Should the 6 bolts be removed first ?
I don't think the dish will clear the rim with a slight turn to get to the opening in the rim.
My fear is I drop or lie the tire down and its too heavy to get it back up. My lifter is the bucket and it will be out of commission.

 

[Gary Fowler]

View attachment 357751
Is this rim adjustable? If so how?

Remove the wheel from tractor
remove the outer bolts
flip over.
reinstall.
??

The outer rim is held on with 6 bolts. In the photo they are bolted to the outside of the lugs on the outer rim. Remove the whole rim from the tractor, remove the 6 bolts and place the dished part of the rim on the other side of the lugs that are on the outer rim portion. That will move the tire out about 2 " per side. It looks like they are already in the dished out mode so swapping the lug mounts is the only way for you to gain a little more width. At least you have the bolted on dish and can extend them a bit. My B26 dish parts are welded to the outer rim and the dish is already dished out to the widest which is about a foot narrower than my RTV 900 track. (outside to outside is 54" and non-adjustable)

 

[RG1]

If that write up was for me I understand ..................... that the dish has to be moved to the other side of the loop and that the tire goes on the other side to keep the rotation the same.
Should the 6 bolts be removed first ?
I don't think the dish will clear the rim with a slight turn to get to the opening in the rim.
My fear is I drop or lie the tire down and its too heavy to get it back up. My lifter is the bucket and it will be out of commission.

I took the entire wheel assembly off first, removed the nuts on the back side of the loop bolts, then laid them down and removed the bolts going through the loops. Next I placed the dish in the position I wanted them in on the opposite rim, and on the side of the loop I needed them to be in, then bolted them back on. I torqued them to the specs in the manual, and re-checked at the interval specified. If your tires aren't loaded, the average man can easily lift them into an upright position and roll them to where you want them for mounting. If they are loaded and you have no other way to lift them, I would suggest taking the machine to your dealer for the swap.

You may not have this issue, but I did- the dish helps to hold the rim in a true circle, and when I removed the dish, it let the wheel go slightly out of round due to tension from the tire apparently not being even all the way around for some reason. I had to work the rim a little at a time when re-installing the loop bolts. The good thing is that I didn't have to squeeze the rim in anywhere, but rather pry it outward at the tight spots. I just used a large pry bar and some old carpet to protect the rim from being scratched. It was no big deal, and I ended up with exactly what I wanted. Just something to be aware might happen.

 

[Xfaxman]

Yes, that is correct.... sorta. I may not have made myself very clear, so if not, my bad.

What you said about moving tires from side to side is what I was pointing out in order to keep rotation the same if he wants to move out to the wider settings because the loops will be moved from the outer side of the rim to the inner side, so the tires have to go to the opposite side to keep rotation the same.

He will not be able to leave the dish on the axle to swap to any of the other positions though. The only way to get the rim on the opposite sides of the loops is by removing everything, even when the dish stays on the same side of the machine. It has to come off to get the loop on the opposite side of the dish. Probably still not making myself clear, but if you look at your diagrams and think about it for a second, you'll see what I am saying. I know from doing this very swap on my 4500.

Yes, I understand what you are saying, but I thought the loops would slide through the scallops in the center plate, That is what my instructions were based on.

 

[RG1]

Yes, I understand what you are saying, but I thought the loops would slide through the scallops in the center plate, That is what my instructions were based on.
View attachment 358041

Yours might. Mine wouldn't due to the arches not being high enough to allow it. That last pic of yours really helps make things clearer.

 

[Xfaxman]

Yours might. Mine wouldn't due to the arches not being high enough to allow it. That last pic of yours really helps make things clearer.

I don't have a tractor, the picture is from rasorbackq, the OP (original poster). My advice was from looking at his picture and the first chart that I posted.

Here is my "tractor".

It is 6' wide, 6.5' high and 13' long. Tire size is 14x17.5. Top speed is 15.5 mph, drawbar pull is 7,000 pounds and it will lift over 5,000 pounds! :thumbsup:

More pictres: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...t/160568-compact-telehandler.html#post3243370