I suck at using rachet chain binders...help

v8only · Mar 3, 2014

So as title says I suck at securing my trailer load. I have 5/16" transport chain and ratcheting binders, i pull the chain as tight as i can and start to ratchet it but it can never get the chain tight it seems to always find a way to pull up more slack and then i run out of thread and have to restart. I need some pointers.

dave1949 · Mar 3, 2014

Do you start by running the binder threads out as far as is safe before hooking the chain on?

v8only · Mar 3, 2014

yes i do, i should have mentioned that.

aczlan · Mar 3, 2014

How about a $13 HF lever binder (2200 Lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Non-Ratcheting Load Binder) to take out the slack, then finish securing it with your screw binder?

Aaron Z

deerseeker001 · Mar 3, 2014

That is what I use.

aczlan said:
How about a $13 HF lever binder (2200 Lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Non-Ratcheting Load Binder) to take out the slack, then finish securing it with your screw binder?

Aaron Z

RedNeckRacin · Mar 3, 2014

It sounds like your chain is running a long ways. Where are you specifically attaching your chains at?

jpm1 · Mar 3, 2014

Ya know, i use to have the same problem with the screw type, i got to the point I threw them under the bench and bought the Non-Ratcheting Load Binder. No problem since then just a little poorer in the wallet! Just remember to wire the handle of the binder to the chain. :laughing: . . .John

RDrancher · Mar 3, 2014

Ratchet binders don't work well if you try to use them like a knuckle buster binder. Always attach a ratchet binder with one end hooked to a stationary point of the trailer and the other to the chain. If you loop the chain through a d-ring (and the other end is also attached through a d-ring) you'll drive yourself crazy trying to get enough slack out. That's why I prefer pocket attachment points to d-rings.

Another thing to watch is to make sure the chain isn't twisted, which makes the chain shorter in length. The ratchet binder will straighten out the links and the chain gets longer while you're tightening.

v8only · Mar 3, 2014

RDrancher said:
Ratchet binders don't work well if you try to use them like a knuckle buster binder. Always attach a ratchet binder with one end hooked to a stationary point of the trailer and the other to the chain. If you loop the chain through a d-ring (and the other end is also attached through a d-ring) you'll drive yourself crazy trying to get enough slack out. That's why I prefer pocket attachment points to d-rings.

Another thing to watch is to make sure the chain isn't twisted, which makes the chain shorter in length. The ratchet binder will straighten out the links and the chain gets longer while you're tightening.

good to know.What i do is i wrap my chain around a D ring to a clevis at the tractor then into another D ring and then try to remove the slack. I will try to use a stationary point of the trailer and see how i make out.

Thanks.

engine29 · Mar 3, 2014

v8only said:
good to know.What i do is i wrap my chain around a D ring to a clevis at the tractor then into another D ring and then try to remove the slack. I will try to use a stationary point of the trailer and see how i make out.

Thanks.[/QUOTE
I have the same problem, bought 'em and threw in the box on the truck. Back up only. Use the ole' handy boomers. Works for me and a lot quicker.

RDrancher · Mar 3, 2014

v8only said:
good to know.What i do is i wrap my chain around a D ring to a clevis at the tractor then into another D ring and then try to remove the slack. I will try to use a stationary point of the trailer and see how i make out.

Thanks.

I had a feeling that was the problem. Also make the wrap through the d-ring as short as you can (within reason.) The idea is to use as little length of chain as possible. Once you get it down, you'll never use a boomer again unless you have more tiedown items than you have ratchets for.

When I rent roller compactors, I usually use a rental tilt trailer since it's safer. All of my rental company's trailers have d-ring attachment points only. That, and the fact that steel rollers don't "squish" down make ratchet binders worthless for that particular application. They can't take up all of the chain slack.

Diamondpilot · Mar 3, 2014

I don't care for the ratchet type either. Not saying they don't work but I have never had a binder fail me.

Chris

tcartwri · Mar 3, 2014

Can you take a picture of what you are doing. I use ratchet binders every day and I can tighten everything up with about three inches of exposed thread.

HHR · Mar 3, 2014

I was under the assumption that the lever type binders weren't legal anymore. That was the reason I switched to the ratcheting style years back.

RDrancher · Mar 3, 2014

I took some chain/binder setup pics for you. I used the chain wrapped around my stake pocket to simulate a d-ring.

This method is the worst possible. It doesn't work too well with a boomer either. The wrap around the d-ring places the ratchet right next to the chain and interferes. It also creates a lot of slack pulling all that chain around the d-ring.

This method works better if you have to wrap around a d-ring. It does place the binder too far away from the edge of trailer for my liking, especially if there's a box blade or other attachment in the way

This is the method I use. It has the least slack take-up possible when using one binder.

Sterff · Mar 3, 2014

I have both ratchets and lever binders. I prefer to use lever binders on the front and ratchets in the back.

gtrippleb · Mar 3, 2014

I used to use the lever type binders but I didn't feel like using a 2ft cheater bar to get them tight and possibly hitting myself. Not to mention when you try and release them, the possibility of the level swinging open and hitting me, wasn't for me. So I went with the ratchet binders. I still carry a few with me when I run out of ratchet binders. For me the ratchet binders are easier to get the chain tight.

In this picture the chain is attached to a stake pocket and then the loose end goes through the anchor point and back towards the stake pocket with one end of the ratchet binder connected towards the stake pocket and the other end attached to the loose end of the chain. Just make sure to try and get as much slack out of the chain before attaching the ratchet binder.

This picture gives you an idea of how the stationary end of the chain is attached if you don't attach the binder to the stake pocket/d-ring.

Greg

QRTRHRS · Mar 3, 2014

RDrancher said:
This is the method I use. It has the least slack take-up possible when using one binder.
View attachment 363697

The problem with the binder hooked like that is should the chain slack for some reason, the hook will fall out of the pocket. The preferrred method for any hook is for the chain to go up through the bottom of the pocket and hang the hook on top inside of the rub rail if equipped.

Lever binders get my vote FWIW.

RDrancher · Mar 3, 2014

QRTRHRS said:
The problem with the binder hooked like that is should the chain slack for some reason, the hook will fall out of the pocket. The preferrred method for any hook is for the chain to go up through the bottom of the pocket and hang the hook on top inside of the rub rail if equipped.

Lever binders get my vote FWIW.

The only way that hook is coming out is if the chain breaks. I tow thousands of miles every year with tractors, CTL's and mini-excavators running like this...I'm not too worried.