Yanmar 2210 lift arms too short for tiller

[old grayfellow]

So bottom line is there's more than one way to till a garden.

Also in the picts of the green tiller, those pieces of steel that go to the lower attachment points look more like gussets to me than stop plates but that's just my interpretation...

Yes, they are gussets, not stop plates. It may seem at a glance that if you are using the 2-part Yanmar toplink and the tiller hits a big rock etc., the top of tiller could buck forward/up by pivoting/rotating on the lift arm pins, but it can't. The geometry doesn't allow this, because as the tiller is trying to swing forward on an arc, the toplink will immediately push it upward (out of the arc) and prevent any movement along the arc.

Like California said, the best solution is to get the right Yanmar toplink. But it can be hard to find them, especially if you didn't get the tiller from an importer.
I bought my tiller from Fredericks. They didn't include the toplink with it originally, but when i pointed out that it was necessary, they sent it to me separately.
However, even if you didn't buy the tiller from them, i'd give them a call or email and see if they will sell you one of the toplinks.

Yes you could make one, or build extensions etc. But it's much simpler to get the right part IMO (and i love to make stuff...) to make sure you have the geometry correct.

 

[Scoutman]

Yes, they are gussets, not stop plates. It may seem at a glance that if you are using the 2-part Yanmar toplink and the tiller hits a big rock etc., the top of tiller could buck forward/up by pivoting/rotating on the lift arm pins, but it can't. The geometry doesn't allow this, because as the tiller is trying to swing forward on an arc, the toplink will immediately push it upward (out of the arc) and prevent any movement along the arc.

Like California said, the best solution is to get the right Yanmar toplink. But it can be hard to find them, especially if you didn't get the tiller from an importer.
I bought my tiller from Fredericks. They didn't include the toplink with it originally, but when i pointed out that it was necessary, they sent it to me separately.
However, even if you didn't buy the tiller from them, i'd give them a call or email and see if they will sell you one of the toplinks.

Yes you could make one, or build extensions etc. But it's much simpler to get the right part IMO (ankd i love to make stuff...) to make sure you have the geometry correct.

Can someone that has the correct bracket and short link take some measurements?
-Bracket lower hole to link hole
-link length hole to hole
-pto shaft length (push button to push button)

I just noticed that i have a clutch on my pto which is one reason the shaft wont fit.

 

[Scoutman]

I called Fredrick's Equipment and spoke with one of the parts guys there. They do have the bracket and short link but don't have the correct driveshaft so I'm still trying to find out what that measurement should be. Since they are only about 30 min from my house and the price is pretty reasonable I'll swing by and pick it up. Just have the figure out the PTO. He did say that the overrun clutch should come off for running the tiller so I also need to figure out how to get that off.

 

[winston1]

If your over run clutch doesn't have a spring loaded collar to push or pull or a pin to push to release it then it is probably like this. There will be a roll pin under the grease fitting to drive out PTO Over Run Overrunning Clutch Coupler Yanmar John Deere Kubota Tractor New | eBay

 

[Scoutman]

If your over run clutch doesn't have a spring loaded collar to push or pull or a pin to push to release it then it is probably like this. There will be a roll pin under the grease fitting to drive out PTO Over Run Overrunning Clutch Coupler Yanmar John Deere Kubota Tractor New | eBay

Cool, thanks. I'll pull a fitting to see but that's probably it.

 

[kenmac]

this Yanmar Tractor Parts: OVER RUNNING CLUTCH- QUICK DETACH - is the other type. You push in on the spring loaded pin to remove it from the PTO shaft

 

[California]

this Yanmar Tractor Parts: OVER RUNNING CLUTCH- QUICK DETACH - is the other type. You push in on the spring loaded pin to remove it from the PTO shaft

In scoutman's case the release components should be visible like in that picture. But there's another type where the coupling is covered by a plastic bell, and you rotate that bell 1/8 turn. The bell has ramps on its inner surface intended to push on that pin as you rotate the bell. It doesn't work very well. BTDT with my rotary mower.

And I see in another thread a coupler release might depend on sliding the outer bell back, like an air hose fitting, to make it push in the spring loaded pin.

At any rate there's some sort of cross-pin to be moved before the coupling can be removed from the pto shaft.

Then - in my experience - it might take a couple of carpenter's prybars to force the coupler off the pto shaft if its rusted on.

 

[Scoutman]

Here is a shot of the clutch.

 

[Scoutman]

So it looks like the length of the pto shaft should be around 17" with the clutch removed. That is a rough measurement from the grease fitting to the tillers release pin groove on the splines. I have a shaft that's close but will still have to be cut down a few inches. I'll know exactly when i get the bracket and get the clutch off and swing the tiller through its full arc.

 

[winston1]

Here is a shot of the clutch.View attachment 367271

Roll pin behind grease fitttings on that clutch.