Yanmar 2210 lift arms too short for tiller

[careyo63]

Thats right I did turn them Inwards also. After they sent me the correct drive shaft. This is the correct length of one for the 2000/240. and a RS1400.

 

[California]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.

No. Wrong.

Look, there's a decal on the tiller showing these components that I and Carey showed you pictures of.

Just set it up the way Yanmar intended, don't turn stuff around.

 

[zzvyb6]

Ok here's how Yanmar intended their tillers to be set up. Note the special top link components. I call the tractor-side part a 'bridge'. I have it attached with pins here in this photo but there was too much slop so I then used the factory bolts that came with the 'bridge'.

I took this photo to show that the driveline provided by the importer was too short - so ignore that component. (After seeing this photo they gave me a free PTO shaft extender, no hassle).

And here's the old thread where I posted that photo. Another new tiller owner had the same questions as you. There are other similar threads here, and the correct solution in all of them is: Don't butcher the tiller, just get the correct Yanmar components (or weld up a replica of that top bridge). It is needed to tilt the tiller away from the tires as it rises.

Your tiller attachment brackets have stops welded in place to prevent the tiller from rocking forward more than a few degrees. Scoutman's doesn't.

 

[California]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.

No. Wrong.

Look, there's a decal on the tiller showing these components that I and Carey showed you pictures of.

Just set it up the way Yanmar intended, don't turn stuff around.

Here's a cleaner picture of what Yanmar intended. I wish I could remember who I copied it from. Does anyone claim it? Thanks to the original poster!

 

[Scoutman]

Any idea why these were so close to the rear of the tires in the first place? It seems that even when they were hooked up correctly with the right parts they're only an inch or two from the rubber.

 

[Scoutman]

Thanks for all the responses BTW. Another question is some of these tillers are RS1400 and this one is a RSB1400. I assume 1400 cause I can't see the rest of the decal in the few pictures I took. I'll check again when I get home.

 

[California]

On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

...

Your tiller attachment brackets have stops welded in place to prevent the tiller from rocking forward more than a few degrees.

Also wrong.

The stress on the top link is a pull - trying to make the top link longer - as the tines rotate forward and meet resistance. Dunno what you mean by 'tabs'. If you disconnect the back end of the upper link at the tiller, it can rotate rotate way past 90 degrees up or down. If it hit a tab while stressed, it would get bent. There is no tab with a purpose of limiting the top link's range of motion.

Here's the factory decal on a RS1400 showing how to connect it to a YM2000. How can you argue with this???

(YM2210 might need a different bridge with three holes to match YM2210's upper link mount point. Anybody know?)

 

[California]

Another question is some of these tillers are RS1400 and this one is a RSB1400.

RS1400 is green and '1400' is the width in mm. The gear case is cast iron. RSB1400 was red which I assume indicates a later model tiller, same width.

I see in the picture there is a shield below the gear case so maybe they switched to aluminum for the gear case. And those springs for the rear cover look more sophisticated that the simple hang-chains on RS1400. I doubt there is any notable difference under actual operating conditions.


Added: And I see you commented about missing the 'trainer wheels' for the back of the tiller. With a YM2210 I don't think you need them.

A lot of people post that they run without them. Also these models were some of the last tillers to offer rear wheels at all. Modern tillers don't use them.

I found my little YM186D (15 pto hp) was too underpowered to run this tiller without the back wheels. Specifically, cross-tilling in my orchard to get close to the trees, (photo) the front tires often climb out of tilled ground onto firm ground. This often buried the tiller and stalled the little tractor. Adding the trainer wheels to keep the tiller at a constant depth alleviated this. You have 22 hp vs this 15 (and hopefully can till your garden in parallel lines) so this shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Inspector507]

The tiller is set up correctly.Nothing needs disassembled. He needs the Yanmar top link bracket that California pictured to make it work without hitting the tires.

 

[normde2001]

What is the length of your toplink? Hoye has min. 13.5" and I have seen shorter.
Yanmar Tractor Parts: Top link - 9 tube - Cat. 1 -
If you had the afore-mentioned stops you could use a length of chain. I doubt you will find the correct linkage if it did not come with the tiller.