Yanmar 2210 lift arms too short for tiller

[zzvyb6]

Your green tiller is an older RS1400. His red one is an RSB1400 or RSB1401. It's designed for use with a red Yanmar tractor's rear draft control socket. That's the reason for the different kind of mount. You can easily see what someone has done to solve the clearance problem on a tractor bigger than this tiller was designed for, yet maintaining draft control (the flex cable).

 

[zzvyb6]

Here's the other end of the draft control squib. Anybody notice the top link config ?

 

[winston1]

I went out and measured my fabricated top link from pin center to pin center. Although adjustable it is set at 15-1/4". My tiller never hits the wheels, my chain case runs in a vertical position.

About a week ago I had a 1200 chain driven unit repairing and selling for a widow lady. I hooked it up and ran it by getting the top link the correct length. I don't understand why this is so complicated. I agree the correct way is the factory set up but it can be worked around. couple of pictures of it attached to my 2002d.

2210 does have 9.5-24 tires and I have 8.3-24 tires. Maybe that is the difference. No idea if the lift arms are the same?

 

[Keith226]

I have the RSB1401 and it came with the toplink pictured in California's post (#8). I have very little clearance between the tire and the tiller, but it works great. If it matters, I have (13.50 - 16.1) R1 tires on the rear. I do have the draft control bracket on the tiller, but whatever linkage was there is long gone, and I'm pretty sure there isn't anything on the YM226 to connect it to anyway.

 

[California]

Here's the other end of the draft control squib. Anybody notice the top link config ?

I see how a cable may give feedback to the hydraulic system for draft control.

But what we are talking about here, is geometry to keep the tiller from hitting the tires as it is raised. The cable can't help with that.

In your photos (enlarged below) I see a non-original quick hitch moving everything back a couple of inches. And likely extender tabs welded to the tiller to move its lift pins farther from its chassis. Is that a longer non-original driveshaft? Modifications like this are what some have done to use a Yanmar tiller but I don't think it replicates what Yanmar intended.

I don't understand the point you are trying to illustrate with photos 2, 3 in post #21.

 

[Keith226]

Seems to me that it wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate that toplink using a standard toplink and some precision cut (CNC plasma cutter) steel, while still maintaining the adjustability. Would there be a market for such an item? If so, I can ask a friend. Welds wouldn't be pretty...but it would be solid.

 

[California]

Seems to me that it wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate that toplink using a standard toplink and some precision cut (CNC plasma cutter) steel, while still maintaining the adjustability. Would there be a market for such an item? If so, I can ask a friend. Welds wouldn't be pretty...but it would be solid.

Carey's pictures on Post #9 show clearly what's needed. That doesn't look hard to duplicate.

 

[normde2001]

"I don't understand the point you are trying to illustrate with photos 2, 3 in post #21. "
I believe he is pointing out the existence, and lack of the stop brackets. If I were a welder I would install those stops and use a length of chain for the flexibility, otherwise a $20 toplink will work just fine.

 

[careyo63]

I could use a Reg. top link and actually tried it so I wouldn't have to Mount the Org. link but I never had Results Like this in the Pic.. Which was the first Turn of the Yr. effortless. You coluldn't adjust it to get these results. And if I recall If I you leveled the Tiller it would hit the Rear tires. There a reason Yanmar used the Top Link setup and I would not even consider Not using it unless I had to. But of course different model Tractor,Tiller etc. different results. When I bought mine From Fredricks I was told the Rs1400 is what my YM2000 was intended for.And BTW. not much mention of this but I really like seeing the Yanmar of America on Fredricks Refurbished Dealer Adds. :thumbsup:

 

[Scoutman]

So bottom line is there's more than one way to till a garden.

I checked last night and confirmed that it is a RSB1400.

I found a little place in the cast gearbox that says 90# and .72L so I'll drain the oil to make sure it's not full or water or something.

I don't want to do any permanent modifications since this isn't 100% my tiller. I also don't want to track down and buy a bracket when I have the parts to make this work. So as I see it my options would be....
-buy original bracket and short link
-make bracket and short link
-make bolt on extension brackets, use a standard top link and the PTO shaft that was with it
-make more extensive mods to push out from tractor
-use a custom shortened top link to rotate the top of the tiller forward and the bottom away from tires
-other mods

I will see how the brackets I'm working on work out and if that's not enough I'll mod one of my worse condition top links. Just for reference, the bolt to the aft of that lower mount is 5/8" and the lower pin holes are 3/4" so swapping the tubes would be a lot of work and you'd still have to modify to make work.

Also in the picts of the green tiller, those pieces of steel that go to the lower attachment points look more like gussets to me than stop plates but that's just my interpretation...

 

[old grayfellow]

So bottom line is there's more than one way to till a garden.

Also in the picts of the green tiller, those pieces of steel that go to the lower attachment points look more like gussets to me than stop plates but that's just my interpretation...

Yes, they are gussets, not stop plates. It may seem at a glance that if you are using the 2-part Yanmar toplink and the tiller hits a big rock etc., the top of tiller could buck forward/up by pivoting/rotating on the lift arm pins, but it can't. The geometry doesn't allow this, because as the tiller is trying to swing forward on an arc, the toplink will immediately push it upward (out of the arc) and prevent any movement along the arc.

Like California said, the best solution is to get the right Yanmar toplink. But it can be hard to find them, especially if you didn't get the tiller from an importer.
I bought my tiller from Fredericks. They didn't include the toplink with it originally, but when i pointed out that it was necessary, they sent it to me separately.
However, even if you didn't buy the tiller from them, i'd give them a call or email and see if they will sell you one of the toplinks.

Yes you could make one, or build extensions etc. But it's much simpler to get the right part IMO (and i love to make stuff...) to make sure you have the geometry correct.

 

[Scoutman]

Yes, they are gussets, not stop plates. It may seem at a glance that if you are using the 2-part Yanmar toplink and the tiller hits a big rock etc., the top of tiller could buck forward/up by pivoting/rotating on the lift arm pins, but it can't. The geometry doesn't allow this, because as the tiller is trying to swing forward on an arc, the toplink will immediately push it upward (out of the arc) and prevent any movement along the arc.

Like California said, the best solution is to get the right Yanmar toplink. But it can be hard to find them, especially if you didn't get the tiller from an importer.
I bought my tiller from Fredericks. They didn't include the toplink with it originally, but when i pointed out that it was necessary, they sent it to me separately.
However, even if you didn't buy the tiller from them, i'd give them a call or email and see if they will sell you one of the toplinks.

Yes you could make one, or build extensions etc. But it's much simpler to get the right part IMO (ankd i love to make stuff...) to make sure you have the geometry correct.

Can someone that has the correct bracket and short link take some measurements?
-Bracket lower hole to link hole
-link length hole to hole
-pto shaft length (push button to push button)

I just noticed that i have a clutch on my pto which is one reason the shaft wont fit.

 

[Scoutman]

I called Fredrick's Equipment and spoke with one of the parts guys there. They do have the bracket and short link but don't have the correct driveshaft so I'm still trying to find out what that measurement should be. Since they are only about 30 min from my house and the price is pretty reasonable I'll swing by and pick it up. Just have the figure out the PTO. He did say that the overrun clutch should come off for running the tiller so I also need to figure out how to get that off.

 

[winston1]

If your over run clutch doesn't have a spring loaded collar to push or pull or a pin to push to release it then it is probably like this. There will be a roll pin under the grease fitting to drive out PTO Over Run Overrunning Clutch Coupler Yanmar John Deere Kubota Tractor New | eBay

 

[Scoutman]

If your over run clutch doesn't have a spring loaded collar to push or pull or a pin to push to release it then it is probably like this. There will be a roll pin under the grease fitting to drive out PTO Over Run Overrunning Clutch Coupler Yanmar John Deere Kubota Tractor New | eBay

Cool, thanks. I'll pull a fitting to see but that's probably it.

 

[kenmac]

this Yanmar Tractor Parts: OVER RUNNING CLUTCH- QUICK DETACH - is the other type. You push in on the spring loaded pin to remove it from the PTO shaft

 

[California]

this Yanmar Tractor Parts: OVER RUNNING CLUTCH- QUICK DETACH - is the other type. You push in on the spring loaded pin to remove it from the PTO shaft

In scoutman's case the release components should be visible like in that picture. But there's another type where the coupling is covered by a plastic bell, and you rotate that bell 1/8 turn. The bell has ramps on its inner surface intended to push on that pin as you rotate the bell. It doesn't work very well. BTDT with my rotary mower.

And I see in another thread a coupler release might depend on sliding the outer bell back, like an air hose fitting, to make it push in the spring loaded pin.

At any rate there's some sort of cross-pin to be moved before the coupling can be removed from the pto shaft.

Then - in my experience - it might take a couple of carpenter's prybars to force the coupler off the pto shaft if its rusted on.

 

[Scoutman]

Here is a shot of the clutch.

 

[Scoutman]

So it looks like the length of the pto shaft should be around 17" with the clutch removed. That is a rough measurement from the grease fitting to the tillers release pin groove on the splines. I have a shaft that's close but will still have to be cut down a few inches. I'll know exactly when i get the bracket and get the clutch off and swing the tiller through its full arc.

 

[winston1]

Here is a shot of the clutch.View attachment 367271

Roll pin behind grease fitttings on that clutch.