Grading with a subcompact to take out a slope
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s219
Super Member
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- Virginia USA
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- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
If you are doing a lot of loader work, dirt work, and grading, I'd suggest R4's for sure. But if you'll mostly be doing mowing, maybe stick with the turfs.
I wouldn't pick tires based on a single task, but rather, based on what you will be doing most, or a range of things you'll be doing. All tire types are a compromise, so pick the ones that will overlap most of your usage.
R4's are not perfect, but they cover the range of things I do, and that was my choice.
I wouldn't pick tires based on a single task, but rather, based on what you will be doing most, or a range of things you'll be doing. All tire types are a compromise, so pick the ones that will overlap most of your usage.
R4's are not perfect, but they cover the range of things I do, and that was my choice.
cartod
Platinum Member
I would have nothing but r1's for what I do. I think turf tires with chains would be the best of both worlds if you are going to mow a lot you can just take off the chains. If you are going to be engaging the ground a lot like with a BB, you want all the traction you can get.
jeff9366
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- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
I would reply exactly as s219, above.
SPIKER
Elite Member
To be clear
R1s are Tractor LUG type tires that you will see on large field tractors they are narrow and the lugs are wide apart to grab the dirt.
R4s are similar but the tires are WIDER and the LUGS are smaller in height & closer together so they do less damage to turf.
Turf tires are just that diamond or square tread smaller and work on the turf without tearing it out as bad as the other two BUT they have much less traction on dirt and they fill up with mud fast.
R4's for an all purposes CUT tractor is best comprises of the 3.
For your plans I would stick with the Box Blade as your first tool to go with the toy errr tractor. Then a Rotary/brush hog followed up with other devices to meet your specific needs.
M
R1s are Tractor LUG type tires that you will see on large field tractors they are narrow and the lugs are wide apart to grab the dirt.
R4s are similar but the tires are WIDER and the LUGS are smaller in height & closer together so they do less damage to turf.
Turf tires are just that diamond or square tread smaller and work on the turf without tearing it out as bad as the other two BUT they have much less traction on dirt and they fill up with mud fast.
R4's for an all purposes CUT tractor is best comprises of the 3.
For your plans I would stick with the Box Blade as your first tool to go with the toy errr tractor. Then a Rotary/brush hog followed up with other devices to meet your specific needs.
M
Cherokee140
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These two machines are about the same Look at what this guy has done. Personally I don't have turf tires on my machine...a BX...but I think the BX and the 1 are pretty close. The R4 has not damaged my yard one bit in the couple times I mow with it. But I do however think that if I did have turf tires on it the tractor would be fighting for traction with many of the jobs I am doing.
I would bet you are going to be doing much more then just mowing after you find out just how much you actually can do with the machine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzD4XQAPECs
I would bet you are going to be doing much more then just mowing after you find out just how much you actually can do with the machine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzD4XQAPECs
Egon
Epic Contributor
First thing you need is a screen above the back of the bucket so high lift overflow doesn't hit the hood. It will also keep logs or such from coming back into your lap.
Now for the levelling project: lay out the area to be levelled and put some depth cuts on stakes. Then start at the low side and remove one bucket wide to the back keeping it level and smooth as you go. This setS the base from which you can work. Then move over one half or so bucket width and make another cut to the very back and keep repeating this operation. Check for level on every second pass. And do keep it smooth. It helps keep things level.:thumbsup:
Digging downslope makes it difficult to end up with level results. Cross slope workers but you need a level spot to start from. If it's not a levelling start you'll be digging holes and tearing hair.
R4 tires with more plies would be best for loader work. Add chains if necessary. Box blade makes for a good counter weight but will not do much else for you in making a level spot other than smoothing out your final result.
Now for the levelling project: lay out the area to be levelled and put some depth cuts on stakes. Then start at the low side and remove one bucket wide to the back keeping it level and smooth as you go. This setS the base from which you can work. Then move over one half or so bucket width and make another cut to the very back and keep repeating this operation. Check for level on every second pass. And do keep it smooth. It helps keep things level.:thumbsup:
Digging downslope makes it difficult to end up with level results. Cross slope workers but you need a level spot to start from. If it's not a levelling start you'll be digging holes and tearing hair.
R4 tires with more plies would be best for loader work. Add chains if necessary. Box blade makes for a good counter weight but will not do much else for you in making a level spot other than smoothing out your final result.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
One thing to remember is not to make the newbie mistake of traveling with a bucket load of dirt up high. When loaded and moving dirt, try to keep the bucket below the level of the hood. The surest way to overturn a shiny new tractor is to do what you see on you tube all the time, traveling with a load with the bucket up high. All it takes if for one tire to run over a high spot or one to fall in a hole and over she goes, because your center of gravity is up way high. I once leveled a whole hillside with a tractor, yes it was over twice the size of your tractor, but as long as you can loosen the dirt and scoop it up, you can move a mountain.. it is all just a matter of how much time do you have.
jeff9366
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- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
Anyone have an opinion on the Frontier box blade from JD? It would be the BB2048L
What is BB2048L weight per foot of width? What is its width, relative to outside width of your tires?
These are the two critical factors.
Minor factors: Rippers and arrangement, Hinged back or not, price.
What is BB2048L weight per foot of width? What is its width, relative to outside width of your tires?
These are the two critical factors.
Minor factors: Rippers and arrangement, Hinged back or not, price.
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