Pole barn concrete dilemma

[whistlepig]

What are you wanting to hear? The proposals made to you so far seem to be overkill to me. Pouring a 6" floor just isn't all that difficult.

 

[Ken45101]

Pouring a 6" floor just isn't all that difficult.

:drink:

 

[bcain1014]

Well, I've always been able to spell "highjacked", now I really understand the meaning.

Sorry if I offended any TBN forum customs by asking a related question in a thread. Next time I'll clutter the forum up with a new thread instead of asking any questions.

 

[s219]

Here's a shot of the compacted gravel bed in my pole barn that will soon have a floor poured. You can see the turndown on the edges, which is mainly to contain the fill bed so that it does not settle outward and bow the skirt board and walls.

 

[BHD]

My soil is called "sandy Loam"

Sandy loam should not be considered expansive,

some depends on the ratio of the sand to loam ratio, but Clays are the real problem,

as one can see in the soil chart here, sand has no expansive chartists, clays the most and loams have some,

but sandy loams have over 50% sand in them.

I do not think one would have any trouble,

 

[truckdiagnostics]

It will not be heated. If it's too cold for me to be outside, I'm staying in the house!

As far as the animals, I have spread 6 to 8 inches of crushed concrete out 12 feet in each direction around the barn. Will that not deter animals? My soil is called "sandy Loam"

We are on all clay, put 18" of stone down and pour on top of that, the big issue is when the soil freezes it expands, and when it does you want the whole slab to move as one piece. The issue with pouring a slab inside a pole building, is you don't want the concrete to grab your poles, so what we do here is add another grade board all the way around and pour in between that. that also gives you something to strike off. hold 2 x 4 little high to give you 5" slab you'll be fine.

I pour everything with re-bar and fiber, the re-bar keeps the crack at the same level when the slab does move.

and i have cut corners and screwed it up..... didn't put the stone down as deep in one spot lifts up 2" every year, but the rebar is in there, so it goes down and back together every spring.

Steve

 

[jimgerken]

I don't know how old this thread is, if you have your answers and gone ahead, or still contemplating. If you are still thinking it over, here's what I would do. If fill inside the existing pole building is at the correct level (in other words it is about 6 inches lower than you want the finished floor) and has been compacted properly, level it with a laser and a garden rake, put a release/expansion strip (guys here call it buffalo board) on the perimeter wood of the inside of the building, right up to the height you want the top of the slab (great use for a laser), next lay down a poly layer to stop moisture from migrating up into the building from the damp ground below, then a layer of XPS foam, at least an inch, three if you plan to heat the building, then set up your 1/2" bar on 2 foot centers grid, wired together at every other (at least) intersection, set up on 1 1/2" - 2" tall chairs, add some more grade stakes of rebar, stick thru the foam and pounded into the ground until their tops are the correct hieght for the top of the slab (you drive these down after referencing them during the pour). Thicker at edges is a great idea for a number of reasons: driving on and off, general extra strength and stiffness to resist forces trying to crack off a corner, adds a bit of frost prevention, especially if you put some vertical insulation around the outside of that thick edge. Pour 5 1/2" of 4000 - 4500 psi air entrained concrete, and have it power troweled to a fairly smooth surface. The trick is to stop before its so smooth it gets slipery when wet, but it ends up smooth enough to sweep without too much effort. I like to add application of Ashford formula to it after a month, so you are sealing and actually improving durability instead of pouring money into a sealer that will wear off over time and does nothing to strenghten anyway.
If any of what I recommend above seems wrong for your region, I won't argue with you about it, but at least I made you think about it. I have poured six buildings now, for storage sheds, garages and workshops, and this last one is the best of all the lessons I learned. It contains every step listed above basically. Good luck.
PS, in our area work is generally quoted at about $3 per square foot for material and labor. Assuming minimal site prep. Assuming they don't have to lay your foam and assuming you will do a better job on these details than they will anyway.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Jim splelled it out real clear. The only other trick I have learned is on top of the foam , put a one inch layer of sand, this give a place for the water to go. Other wise you risk getting to much water or cream on top.

Steve