On your hitch deal, it's obvious you were in a hurry and didn't pay much attention to detail. Why would you completely weld the top pieces of the channel on where it bolts at the top? That's just extra work. I would have cut notches in the flanges and then bent the web to the right angle. Then I'd just weld up the the closed notches and grind it flush. Would look a lot better and more professional but I guess if you're just a hobby welder it's OK if it looks like it was slapped together in a hurry.:confused3:
That's what I did. I cut notches and bent it. The line on the bend is where the saw made a scratch across the web. On one side it was deeper than I wanted so I welded it. In a hurry as you said, didn't grind it, was happy to find paint in the can on the shelf. It's all good and I use it all the time. My neighbor liked it so I built him a refined version.
Generally when newbies are looking at 120 volt welders it's because it is a lower cost introduction to welding. The money you have tied up in your set up could have purchased a top of the line CC/CV welder or separate MIG and stick/TIG machines. Just the cost of the MM200 could have bought 2 separate machines. Maybe if you would have asked first and bought later us "pro's" could have given you some less expensive options?
I have two shops plus a garage = 3 locations that I work in, and one is off-grid - that's my desire for portability, and all-in-one. And I like that its MIG/TIG/STICK but have only used the MIG. I already had the pair of Hondas, I didn't want to buy another generator. I'm not convinced that asking on this forum would have helped, but I hope it becomes more helpful. I don't know why this is relevant, and don't recall recommending this specialty machine to anyone.
The reason I don't think a groove weld on flat plate is the definitive test for a 120 volt welder (or any weld for that matter) is because you can see if you have full penetration very easily and by design it's made so you can get full penetration very easily. The plate is also preheated after the root pass and stays hot. With a fillet weld you can't tell how much penetration you're getting or if it's enough and you don't get the preheat factor to help with fusion and penetration.
I thank you for explaining, authoritatively, you are helping to make my point. One way to get the most from a 120v MIG, is to use methods more suited to the lower power, to get your strength with "tricks" such as a groove. People who want 120v MIGs are not pros who must follow a specific regiment. They often have the discretion to do it however works.
So why tell people it can't be done, (knowing full well how it CAN be done)? Tell them how to do it, as you just did above. That's my problem with the way this forum is being "handled".
I fail to see why you keep referring to this forum as a hobby/maintenance forum?
Anybody with any amount of pride in their work will try to do the best job they can. Usually that means trying to make it look as professional as possible. To say farmers and hobbyist's shouldn't or don't need to take pride in their work is an insult to them. :ashamed::ashamed: Perhaps you've exceeded your duty cycle and should let the farmers, hobbyists, maintenance welders and other posters decide who's advice they want to take? After all they're the ones asking for it.:anyone:
Well that's an interesting point of view. I posted pics of welds that I am perfectly happy with, I think they look fine, I can tell with one simple glance that they aren't going to break. I knew it while I was welding it too. And you said they are ugly, Shield said it had problems (though he would never say it was insufficient). I like seeing pretty welds as much as anybody, but I don't sit there and gaze at welds, sometimes I'm ready to use it while it's still HOT.
I have not berated anybodys welds, and to the contrary I tell folks go at it, learn by doing, get started with 120v if you want, because 120v MIGs WORK (I only have experience with Miller, Hobart). Again, I can't say anything about a $195 wire-feed.
You say that if a weld can't be done to a high standard, don't do it at all. I think your message is the insulting one. I fix stuff and I make stuff and I have fun doing it, and disagree it looks crappy. It looks FINE! Hobby/maintenance can build stuff to pro level too, it doesn't make them pros.
If a guy could post a 120v weld on this forum, (with a 120v MIG) and get genuine HELP to improve his weld, with the machine he has, and not get pigpiled and berated for his eqpt, then I think my work was done.
Shield Arc is a pro and worth listening to. I do know that a 120 machine is much easier to weld with and make it look good. It kind of lays on weld like body filler. I only own 220 machine myself. In welding certification years ago instructor said check 120 machines in shop they will all be set on highest heat settings. Every time I have used one I wished for more penetration.
I bet in school they said to set the machine to an appropriate heat range for the material thickness. For a Miller or Hobart, with 3/16" it should be near the max, and for 1/4" of course it should be maxed. For 1/16 and 1/8" you would not put it on max. If the machine is on max it's because the last person welded 3/16+ or because he wasn't taught to set the machine for the material to be welded. (Again Miller/Hobart etc)
