Mostly scrap built (but still awesome) land plane

[jwmorris]

Just weld a brace towards the bottom of the vertical tubes of the mount you have, that ties into the bottom of the jack (will look like a diagonal brace for the rear corners) That is the quickest way I can see to fix it.

 

[Xfaxman]

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Married the jacks to the casters

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I either have to weld the "socket" into the jack, or somehow tighten up the pin... maybe drill and go to the next size up with tighter clearances.

How about a collar or U bolt clamp to a brace where I added the arrows?


Looks like jwmorris Posted while I was waiting for HughsNet satellite internet to to come up after the thunder storm.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I was thinking another 90 from the corner of the plane to the bottom of the jack... but yeah, same idea. I'd use a "U" bolt so that they jacks are still easy to remove/replace.

 

[BukitCase]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground - IOW, you can raise/lower them either with the crank, OR by turning the pad or wheel.

IF yours are that way, you may wanna relocate your wheel fork bolt holes nearer to the front (direction of travel) and make new wheel forks that angle backward, so the wheels will track. (I only mentioned moving the bolt holes, because the pics make it look like just angling the forks could cause the wheels to rub on the rear crossmember)

Otherwise, you may have your wheels raising/lowering on their own and/or trying to run sideways.

If the wheel fork trails the mount, it'll always run true... Steve

 

[ovrszd]

jwmorris, I have something like that running around in my head for a 600lb welding table so it'll sit solid while using but yet be able to be raised onto casters to move around if needed.

Sorry for the hijack.

 

[jwmorris]

jwmorris, I have something like that running around in my head for a 600lb welding table so it'll sit solid while using but yet be able to be raised onto casters to move around if needed.

Sorry for the hijack.

That one weighs at least that much now that it is full, under the bench and now has metal casters. Make sure you thread the bottom for leveling bolts.


Xfaxman illustration has what I had in mind but I would just go straight across and tie into the jack.

You could use a muffler clamp as light weight as that style of jack is built. The jack wil be destroyed before a 3/8" clamp.

 

[NS Gearhead]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground

These have a bit of play, but not much.

 

[NS Gearhead]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground

These have a bit of play, but not much.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Xfaxman illustration has what I had in mind but I would just go straight across and tie into the jack.

You could use a muffler clamp as light weight as that style of jack is built. The jack wil be destroyed before a 3/8" clamp.

I do like the thought of using the brace as gusseting for the plane itself... and I was thinking a muffler clamp too. Wouldn't take much to make it a hole lot stronger. I'll just weld some flat plate to the pipe with holes for the clamp.

 

[M E Race]

Not to in any way trash your design, but. As material flows over your cutting blade it will fall in front of your castor wheel, thus raising blade off road surface. If you need the wheels for transport they need to be in the rear. To try to adjust on the fly for building a crown, your blade would have to be adjustable in motion.