boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
3pt hitch rear blade as the basic unit... and building up from there...
TNT (top n tilt) for 3pt hitch, to help feather out blade cutting and angling.
offset = ability to swing blade off to one side.
----hey i have this small size tractor (SCUT / maybe even a CUT), and the width of the unit vs implement i want to use, just don't match up. the implement ends up not as wide as the tractor... i need some help here?
adjust angling more than 3pt hitch allows = digging ditches better
abilty to swing blade around 360 degrees for going forward and dragging stuff, or swinging blade backwards to go in reverse to push stuff
---box blades, they have a front blade, and then some have a rear blade, and then a rear blade that swings up some when going forward.
is there a way to double blade a generic 3pt hitch rear blade?
side wings = like a box blade sides, that attach to edges of a rear blade. to help move dirt/rock, without the dirt/rock falling out the edges of the rear blade.
---is it possible to adjust the side wings angle of attack, so when ya dragging the rear blade at an angle to move dirt or rock from one side to the other side, say making a crown on a drive way?
---is it possible to adjust side wings so there are perpendicular (90 degrees) to the cutting edge of the rear blade, and then adjust them so they are parrallel to the cutting edge, in essence making a 4 foot blade into say a 5 foot 6 foot width blade? might be nice for a little bit of snow on ground, vs large amounts of snow. or doing a little extra width of smoothing out very top 1/2" to 1" of dirt in the yard... (wider blade = less down ward pressure)
---is it possible to flip these wings all the way back, behind the rear blade or something, so when ya don't need them they are pin to the rear blade, but when ya do need them. pull them off a holder and attach to the sides of the rear blade?
sacrificer teeth / rippers on a box blade = you can adjust up and down or completely remove if wanted. used to break up hard compacted dirt / gravel driveway. and then once ripped up using rear blade or box blade or other attachment. to smoothing things out... some of them have a shear bolt. so when ya catch a tree root or pavement or something, the bolt shears away, letting the ripper spin backwards and up and out of the way, vs doing damage to something.
---is it possible to add these rippers to back side of the rear blade? say one side is cutting edge, then spin blade around 180, and drop the teeth? or simply drop the teeth down from the backside of the blade?
---would the be better served in front of the rear blade? so the teeth / rippers break stuff up, and then the rear blade can smooth and shift the dirt around to some degree?
motor grader = a large distance between rear gauge wheels and rear tractor wheels. the long distance allows for removing the bigger dips in dirt lanes / gravel driveways.
---is it possible to undo a few bolts, slip in a longer piece between connection to 3pt hitch, and part of rear blade that allows it to spin and adjust angles... and then add some gauge wheels that stick further back behind the rear blade as in a few plus feet?
---is it possible to say use a regular bumper trailer, or a bumper pull behind sprayer, as the rear gauge wheels? easy adjustable tongue weight (add your own weight) on trailer, for extra weight on the blade, a pull behind sprayer = easy adjustable weight as well just add water. would something like a cheap generic version of a "weight distribution hitch" for bumper pull trailers and like work?
potatoe plow / subsoiler / single large ripper
---can i detach rear blade and insert a subsoiler? or use the middle ripper as in box blade rippers. and install a larger ripper?
york rake = kinda like a long handle manual garden rake but for a tractor...
is it possible to to swap out rear blade, for a set of tines?
dirt scoop = think FEL (front end loader bucket) but for 3pt hitch.
---is it possible to slide on a bottom to turn the rear blade with wings, into a dirt scoop? not real happy moving some dirt from one side of yard across driveway and onto other side. might be nice to move dirt in along trails. or remove dirt without dragging the dirt every were behind you like a box blade.
--- beside FEL (front end loader) bucket/s, backhoe bucket, and a 3pt hitch dirt scoop, there really is nothing else out there to dig into lift the material up so its no dragging all over the place... FEL's cost a pretty penny, not everyone has a FEL on there tractor...let alone a backhoe...
--- err i take above back, i want to say roll over box blade. but that technical name most likely wrong.
gauge wheels or shoes or feet = keeping blade up off a paved driveway or concrete without scratching it up or catching cracks
---beyond the motor grader idea above, just a simple set of guage wheels or like that set on the back side of the rear blade?
single gang disc harrow
---might be nice, have some ugly hills and ditchs i really can't drive up or down them and only along the side of them. might be nice to set the offset clear out. and drop the disc. to stir up the couple inches of soil, toss some grass seed down, then run back over with disc harrow, to get the seeds a little bit below the dirt.
drag harrow (think chain link fence)
---i get in trouble running over larger areas of yard, that does not include immediate area that i am trying to smooth and clear the large clumps out of.... can i toss a couple chains or perhaps bolt or pin, the front part of the drag harrow to the rear blade some how. and have a little extension off back, so when 3pt hitch raises up. it raises entire drag harrow / chain link fence up off the ground?
--- it might be nice to be able to angle the blade. so instead of having say a 6 foot wide drag harrow, after angling the rear blade it turns it into 4 foot.
adding extra weight....
---box blades tend to have more of a "shelf" on top of them to add concrete blocks, or a log across the top of it. even discs have some what of an arrow to add some extra weight.
---is there a way to add water? say, plug up all the ends of metal tubes/pipes that make this up, and weld in some bushings were holes for bolts or pins that may need to go through. and then weld on a garden hose adapter (one spot low to drain, one spot high to fill / allow air to escape).
---is there a metal pipe or rod. i could drop some concrete blocks over?
---is there a receiving hitch in the back, so i could slip in a hitch for some sort of carrier for a regular pickup truck, but add some weight that way?
============
nickle and dimed. vs quick hitch setups....
i pay for basic 3pt hitch connection, and a basic implement attached to connection points (rear blade, box blade, rake, etc...)
--- is it possible to have a "multi tool" style tool bar. that accepts generic doings? with minimal extra fuss? it may not be quick attach, but a few hundred bucks here and there for basic cheap implement, vs spending that hundred bucks, for say offset ability, multi angling ability. and can be re-purposed fairly easily, (undo some bolts / pins) and ready to go with next thing... *shrugs* i guess get a more expensive multi tool, that can be used on a wider variety of basic implements....
--- if i could buy some hyd cylinders... for just one multi tool. (hyd to raise/lower gauge wheels, angle everything like wanted... i could pull off rear blade for a york rake, and still have all my hyd cylinders to do all the fine tuning on the go. or adjust cultipaker, or disk harrow, or what not... ya it takes a little longer to change things out, but how much extra time would be saved, with the extra hydraulic cylinders that you could adjust everything on the fly? or perhaps some cash saved on basic multi tool without the hyd cylinders.
can i buy some "farm jacks" instead of hyd cylinders to use to adjust things? *ok that is far out there*
adding extra rear remotes to back of tractor....
---can i use a PTO hyd pump or like, and some electrical over hyd valves. on this multi tool, and then run what amounts to a corded remote control box up to the tractor seat? that has some dip switches on it?
--- perhaps only needing a standard rear remote on rear of tractor, with valve lever with detent position or bungie cord valve to on, and setting the extra electronic over hyd valves on the unit itself?
TNT (top n tilt) for 3pt hitch, to help feather out blade cutting and angling.
offset = ability to swing blade off to one side.
----hey i have this small size tractor (SCUT / maybe even a CUT), and the width of the unit vs implement i want to use, just don't match up. the implement ends up not as wide as the tractor... i need some help here?
adjust angling more than 3pt hitch allows = digging ditches better
abilty to swing blade around 360 degrees for going forward and dragging stuff, or swinging blade backwards to go in reverse to push stuff
---box blades, they have a front blade, and then some have a rear blade, and then a rear blade that swings up some when going forward.
is there a way to double blade a generic 3pt hitch rear blade?
side wings = like a box blade sides, that attach to edges of a rear blade. to help move dirt/rock, without the dirt/rock falling out the edges of the rear blade.
---is it possible to adjust the side wings angle of attack, so when ya dragging the rear blade at an angle to move dirt or rock from one side to the other side, say making a crown on a drive way?
---is it possible to adjust side wings so there are perpendicular (90 degrees) to the cutting edge of the rear blade, and then adjust them so they are parrallel to the cutting edge, in essence making a 4 foot blade into say a 5 foot 6 foot width blade? might be nice for a little bit of snow on ground, vs large amounts of snow. or doing a little extra width of smoothing out very top 1/2" to 1" of dirt in the yard... (wider blade = less down ward pressure)
---is it possible to flip these wings all the way back, behind the rear blade or something, so when ya don't need them they are pin to the rear blade, but when ya do need them. pull them off a holder and attach to the sides of the rear blade?
sacrificer teeth / rippers on a box blade = you can adjust up and down or completely remove if wanted. used to break up hard compacted dirt / gravel driveway. and then once ripped up using rear blade or box blade or other attachment. to smoothing things out... some of them have a shear bolt. so when ya catch a tree root or pavement or something, the bolt shears away, letting the ripper spin backwards and up and out of the way, vs doing damage to something.
---is it possible to add these rippers to back side of the rear blade? say one side is cutting edge, then spin blade around 180, and drop the teeth? or simply drop the teeth down from the backside of the blade?
---would the be better served in front of the rear blade? so the teeth / rippers break stuff up, and then the rear blade can smooth and shift the dirt around to some degree?
motor grader = a large distance between rear gauge wheels and rear tractor wheels. the long distance allows for removing the bigger dips in dirt lanes / gravel driveways.
---is it possible to undo a few bolts, slip in a longer piece between connection to 3pt hitch, and part of rear blade that allows it to spin and adjust angles... and then add some gauge wheels that stick further back behind the rear blade as in a few plus feet?
---is it possible to say use a regular bumper trailer, or a bumper pull behind sprayer, as the rear gauge wheels? easy adjustable tongue weight (add your own weight) on trailer, for extra weight on the blade, a pull behind sprayer = easy adjustable weight as well just add water. would something like a cheap generic version of a "weight distribution hitch" for bumper pull trailers and like work?
potatoe plow / subsoiler / single large ripper
---can i detach rear blade and insert a subsoiler? or use the middle ripper as in box blade rippers. and install a larger ripper?
york rake = kinda like a long handle manual garden rake but for a tractor...
is it possible to to swap out rear blade, for a set of tines?
dirt scoop = think FEL (front end loader bucket) but for 3pt hitch.
---is it possible to slide on a bottom to turn the rear blade with wings, into a dirt scoop? not real happy moving some dirt from one side of yard across driveway and onto other side. might be nice to move dirt in along trails. or remove dirt without dragging the dirt every were behind you like a box blade.
--- beside FEL (front end loader) bucket/s, backhoe bucket, and a 3pt hitch dirt scoop, there really is nothing else out there to dig into lift the material up so its no dragging all over the place... FEL's cost a pretty penny, not everyone has a FEL on there tractor...let alone a backhoe...
--- err i take above back, i want to say roll over box blade. but that technical name most likely wrong.
gauge wheels or shoes or feet = keeping blade up off a paved driveway or concrete without scratching it up or catching cracks
---beyond the motor grader idea above, just a simple set of guage wheels or like that set on the back side of the rear blade?
single gang disc harrow
---might be nice, have some ugly hills and ditchs i really can't drive up or down them and only along the side of them. might be nice to set the offset clear out. and drop the disc. to stir up the couple inches of soil, toss some grass seed down, then run back over with disc harrow, to get the seeds a little bit below the dirt.
drag harrow (think chain link fence)
---i get in trouble running over larger areas of yard, that does not include immediate area that i am trying to smooth and clear the large clumps out of.... can i toss a couple chains or perhaps bolt or pin, the front part of the drag harrow to the rear blade some how. and have a little extension off back, so when 3pt hitch raises up. it raises entire drag harrow / chain link fence up off the ground?
--- it might be nice to be able to angle the blade. so instead of having say a 6 foot wide drag harrow, after angling the rear blade it turns it into 4 foot.
adding extra weight....
---box blades tend to have more of a "shelf" on top of them to add concrete blocks, or a log across the top of it. even discs have some what of an arrow to add some extra weight.
---is there a way to add water? say, plug up all the ends of metal tubes/pipes that make this up, and weld in some bushings were holes for bolts or pins that may need to go through. and then weld on a garden hose adapter (one spot low to drain, one spot high to fill / allow air to escape).
---is there a metal pipe or rod. i could drop some concrete blocks over?
---is there a receiving hitch in the back, so i could slip in a hitch for some sort of carrier for a regular pickup truck, but add some weight that way?
============
nickle and dimed. vs quick hitch setups....
i pay for basic 3pt hitch connection, and a basic implement attached to connection points (rear blade, box blade, rake, etc...)
--- is it possible to have a "multi tool" style tool bar. that accepts generic doings? with minimal extra fuss? it may not be quick attach, but a few hundred bucks here and there for basic cheap implement, vs spending that hundred bucks, for say offset ability, multi angling ability. and can be re-purposed fairly easily, (undo some bolts / pins) and ready to go with next thing... *shrugs* i guess get a more expensive multi tool, that can be used on a wider variety of basic implements....
--- if i could buy some hyd cylinders... for just one multi tool. (hyd to raise/lower gauge wheels, angle everything like wanted... i could pull off rear blade for a york rake, and still have all my hyd cylinders to do all the fine tuning on the go. or adjust cultipaker, or disk harrow, or what not... ya it takes a little longer to change things out, but how much extra time would be saved, with the extra hydraulic cylinders that you could adjust everything on the fly? or perhaps some cash saved on basic multi tool without the hyd cylinders.
can i buy some "farm jacks" instead of hyd cylinders to use to adjust things? *ok that is far out there*
adding extra rear remotes to back of tractor....
---can i use a PTO hyd pump or like, and some electrical over hyd valves. on this multi tool, and then run what amounts to a corded remote control box up to the tractor seat? that has some dip switches on it?
--- perhaps only needing a standard rear remote on rear of tractor, with valve lever with detent position or bungie cord valve to on, and setting the extra electronic over hyd valves on the unit itself?
