Kubota M6060 vs. L6060 vs. NH T 4.75 vs. JD 5075E

[94BULLITT]

Except for the heavier Massey MF1758 and Kioti NX6010 or the more powerful Deere 4066R, that is.

Just saying'

Do any of them have dual speed hydro and stall guard? All those tractors with out a loader are within 150lbs off each other.

 

[motownbrowne]

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my hydro. LOVE it. That said, for tilling and planting 20-30 acres at a time, it's not the right tool for the job in my opinion. The efficiency loss of the hst would be too much I think.

That said, one could buy a big hydro CUT for loader work and daily chores, and an older used gear tractor for the real Ag stuff. Something like an international 1066 or JD 4020, or maybe one size down. Just an idea.

 

[94BULLITT]

I have had an A/C problem with my JD 4720 and my dealer provided a replacement tractor in the form of a used Grand L5740. I couldn't be more impressed with the Kubota! It is head and shoulders above my JD4720 in strength and power, although not nearly as comfortable. I have considered the new L6060 and while I haven't completely ruled it out, I'm concerned that I will outgrow the CUT tractors in the next year or two. I'm getting opportunities to bid on work that involves significant acreage...20, 30 acres or more, and I will need to get larger, heavier tillage and planting equipment, probably in excess of what a CUT machine 3 pt can handle. Of my current implements, most have 6'-7' working widths and the heaviest is a Kasco Eco Drill with three boxes that weighs in around 1800 lbs empty. On sidehills I have to be careful with the drill and also my Land Pride seeder. I think the bigger tractors will handle all of the equipment better in these circumstances. I was leaning toward the 5075E because it is just slightly smaller, lower profile than the M7060...and it's less expensive. Some of what I've read has me a little spooked about the John Deere 50xxE series.

You probably would be better off with a Utility tractor if you are going to be taking on bigger jobs.

 

[fleminj2pa]

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my hydro. LOVE it. That said, for tilling and planting 20-30 acres at a time, it's not the right tool for the job in my opinion. The efficiency loss of the hst would be too much I think.

That said, one could buy a big hydro CUT for loader work and daily chores, and an older used gear tractor for the real Ag stuff. Something like an international 1066 or JD 4020, or maybe one size down. Just an idea.

You're right, I need three tractors...but, I can only afford two at the moment because I also need more attachments. I also have a John Deere 2520 sub-CUT and it's amazing what that little tractor will do, including get into places that even a CUT won't get to. I have a broom, snowblower, 62" belly mower w/collection system, and loader for it. It will run my 6' brush hog and I just started using it to run my 110 gal. sprayer because it can fit between the rows without running down a row, but I can only put about 90 gal of water in it which is enough to do 4.5 acres. I'd love to keep the 4720 for mowing and spraying larger areas but it's just not an option. So the next tractor has to do what the 4720 does and do the heavy work better. I'm sure I'll miss the hydro in a lot of applications but life is full of compromises.

By the way, while I'm thinking about it, can anyone explain the difference between a synch shuttle and power reverser?

 

[motownbrowne]

A synchronized shuttle would still require you to clutch to change directions. A hydraulic or power shuttle just requires a flip of a lever.

I think you've probably already thought of this, but you could afford three tractors if you keep the two you have and add a used ag machine. There's some real nice old IH rigs for under 12k around here. But they won't be the same as a new cabbed Kubota.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Do any of them have dual speed hydro and stall guard? All those tractors with out a loader are within 150lbs off each other.

Dual speed? No, each range (L-M-H) covers the same working speeds of Kubota's 2-speed range. When I looked at the L6060, the two-speed transmission felt like everybody else's single range with a shift point in the middle. The Kioti I purchased for example has a slightly faster ground speed in high range, so what is Kubota's two speed doing? FWIW, everybody has stall guard these days and every one of them is easier to make changes to things than Kubota's new, single button.

 

[PoorPlowboy]

Yes kubota offers adding a creeper range I believe it is a dealer install kit option like the 1000 rpm pto on the m8540/60 and up

The creeper gear pack can be added by the dealer to the 6040/7040 and give you 4 mor lower gears. I use it on my 7040 for tillage. Isn't that 12x12?

 

[94BULLITT]

Dual speed? No, each range (L-M-H) covers the same working speeds of Kubota's 2-speed range. When I looked at the L6060, the two-speed transmission felt like everybody else's single range with a shift point in the middle. The Kioti I purchased for example has a slightly faster ground speed in high range, so what is Kubota's two speed doing? FWIW, everybody has stall guard these days and every one of them is easier to make changes to things than Kubota's new, single button.

The dual speed allows you to do more work in any range. When the DS is in low it gives you more pulling power than a tractor that does not have a dual speed hydro because it is "geared" lower. With a tractor that does does not have a dual speed you would have to down shift to a lower range. With the DS in high you have a faster ground speed. The DS is about like a splitter on a truck transmission. I'm not sure how they rate the topspeed on tractors, I have GPSed mine and they run faster than what they say they should, even the Bobcat did.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The dual speed allows you to do more work in any range. When the DS is in low it gives you more pulling power than a tractor that does not have a dual speed hydro because it is "geared" lower. With a tractor that does does not have a dual speed you would have to down shift to a lower range. With the DS in high you have a faster ground speed. The DS is about like a splitter on a truck transmission. I'm not sure how they rate the topspeed on tractors, I have GPSed mine and they run faster than what they say they should, even the Bobcat did.

Understood. But to me duel speed in high, felt like everybody else's high with a shift point in the middle. I did not try it in medium or low and neither did i load test.

 

[94BULLITT]

Understood. But to me duel speed in high, felt like everybody else's high with a shift point in the middle. I did not try it in medium or low and neither did i load test.

You really need to work the tractor to appreciate it, you can't appreciate it driving around the dealers parking lot

 

[TripleR]

You really need to work the tractor to appreciate it, you can't appreciate it driving around the dealers parking lot

True, I've posted many times that I was definitely underwhelmed by the HST+ on the dealer's lot and first week or two of operation, but came to really appreciate it over time. I believe other tractors are now coming out with some of the same features and they will become more common.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

True, I've posted many times that I was definitely underwhelmed by the HST+ on the dealer's lot and first week or two of operation, but came to really appreciate it over time. I believe other tractors are now coming out with some of the same features and they will become more common.

From what I can find, the ONLY advantage that Kubota's HST+ has over the competition is the 2 speed. All the other features-advantages that HST+ had over the other makes is gone. I have no doubt that once it is determined by the competition that the 2 speed is a big benefit, that they will soon follow with the same, just as they have with the other features.

Just my :2cents:

 

[downslope]

A synchronized shuttle would still require you to clutch to change directions. A hydraulic or power shuttle just requires a flip of a lever.

I think you've probably already thought of this, but you could afford three tractors if you keep the two you have and add a used ag machine. There's some real nice old IH rigs for under 12k around here. But they won't be the same as a new cabbed Kubota.

Another thing, with the power shuttle the clutch usually runs in oil which should translate to longer life, especially if you do a lot of reversing at row-ends, backing up with a mower, etc.

Just yesterday I was running a heavy field cultivator which would clog up occasionally with roots from killed mugwort that was plowed under. I found the best thing was to stop and back up a few feet with the machine in the ground to dislodge the roots it was dragging; same thing at row ends. I thought to myself a power reverser sure would be nice for this.

You mention using an old farm utility tractor as a 3rd machine. I noticed he has a 2520 CUT. If he had one of the full size 2520's manufactured up into the 1970's (or something similar like a White/Oliver with Over/Under or Ford/NH with Dual-Power) it could probably do all of the heavy work he's got now and still retain the JD hydro for less net $$ outlay.

 

[downslope]

Hey, it's good you're a tire dealer. Have you considered going to radials? They would give a lot more traction without needing as much ballast. That could keep your total weight down for transport concerns.

Actually boggen, I am a tire dealer. I did some research on available tires, tread patterns and ply ratings and have decided to go with either the Kubota M7060 or the John Deere 5075E. Both tractors offer 12X12 transmission options and can be ordered with R4 Industrial tires. I have found 10 ply fronts and 14 ply rears from Goodyear/Titan to switch out with the OE tires. Right now I'm in the pricing stage on both units. All things being equal, I think the Kubota would have a slight edge all around but it also carries a heftier list price. I think either tractor would get the job done for me so it will depend on which dealer is more aggressive in pricing. I believe I have my JD 4720 sold, so it may also come down to availability and who can get me a replacement tractor in the shortest time possible since I'm coming into one the my busiest times of the year...fall food plots. Last count I had right around 50 acres to get planted, so whatever I get will get a workout right out of the gate.

I appreciate all the input from everyone! I'll let you know what I end up with.

 

[fleminj2pa]

Another thing, with the power shuttle the clutch usually runs in oil which should translate to longer life, especially if you do a lot of reversing at row-ends, backing up with a mower, etc.

Just yesterday I was running a heavy field cultivator which would clog up occasionally with roots from killed mugwort that was plowed under. I found the best thing was to stop and back up a few feet with the machine in the ground to dislodge the roots it was dragging; same thing at row ends. I thought to myself a power reverser sure would be nice for this.

You mention using an old farm utility tractor as a 3rd machine. I noticed he has a 2520 CUT. If he had one of the full size 2520's manufactured up into the 1970's (or something similar like a White/Oliver with Over/Under or Ford/NH with Dual-Power) it could probably do all of the heavy work he's got now and still retain the JD hydro for less net $$ outlay.

A synchronized shuttle would still require you to clutch to change directions. A hydraulic or power shuttle just requires a flip of a lever.

I think you've probably already thought of this, but you could afford three tractors if you keep the two you have and add a used ag machine. There's some real nice old IH rigs for under 12k around here. But they won't be the same as a new cabbed Kubota.

You guys may be onto an idea about the older ag tractor for the heavy work. My problem is that i'm not familiar enough with those older models to know what to look for on TractorHouse. Possibly, you could give me some ideas. Here's what I need...a tractor that can do heavy tillage, preferably 4X4, pull a grain drill and have a class I/II or straight class II 3 pt hitch that can lift at least 3300 lbs., AND be relatively easy to transport on a deck over, 12,000 lb trailer, with the attachment to be used. That means that tractor has to weigh in at no more than around 7500-8000 lbs. with ballast and/or weights. AND...have a loader that is relatively heavy duty. The loader won't go to the field so it's weight doesn't have to be factored in for trailering with implements. (We have a firewood business too and need a heavy loader to move logs in the fall and winter)

 

[RollingsFarms]

My 5325 would easily do everything you list AND it only weighs 6300(without my loader). I'd look for something like a 5 series tractor. 5010/5020/5025.

 

[94BULLITT]

You guys may be onto an idea about the older ag tractor for the heavy work. My problem is that i'm not familiar enough with those older models to know what to look for on TractorHouse. Possibly, you could give me some ideas. Here's what I need...a tractor that can do heavy tillage, preferably 4X4, pull a grain drill and have a class I/II or straight class II 3 pt hitch that can lift at least 3300 lbs., AND be relatively easy to transport on a deck over, 12,000 lb trailer, with the attachment to be used. That means that tractor has to weigh in at no more than around 7500-8000 lbs. with ballast and/or weights. AND...have a loader that is relatively heavy duty. The loader won't go to the field so it's weight doesn't have to be factored in for trailering with implements. (We have a firewood business too and need a heavy loader to move logs in the fall and winter)

What kind of budget?

 

[fleminj2pa]

Good question...I suppose that it may take at least $10-$15K to get a usable machine. I could do that...maybe a little more. Actually, I think I have my 4720 sold already and I don't want to back out of the deal...the buyer has been very good to deal with. However, once it's closed and gone that means I could take the $50K+ I was going to spend on the new cab tractor and buy two used tractors...one hydro and one ag...probably both would have to be open station but I may be able to talk myself into that to get the versatility.

 

[94BULLITT]

Good question...I suppose that it may take at least $10-$15K to get a usable machine. I could do that...maybe a little more. Actually, I think I have my 4720 sold already and I don't want to back out of the deal...the buyer has been very good to deal with. However, once it's closed and gone that means I could take the $50K+ I was going to spend on the new cab tractor and buy two used tractors...one hydro and one ag...probably both would have to be open station but I may be able to talk myself into that to get the versatility.

For $50K you should be able to find a couple of good used tractors. Here is a nice one for $32k. http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=8694645 With a bigger tractor would you need as large or as powerful of a compact tractor?

 

[fleminj2pa]

Geez Louise, that's a BIG tractor! Nice...but big. I've been searching for the JD5325 that Rolling Farms suggested and I found a couple nice ones. Not a bad weight at 6300 lbs...

To answer your question, no, with an ag tractor to do heavy work I wouldn't need the most powerful compact hydro...just something to mow, spray, run a spreader, 6' tiller. 40-50 Hp should do that.