Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[KubotainNH]

Good luck Mare, you can do it. A couple decent pics of the parts back there may help. What did you end up ordering for parts, besides the bypass parts.

 

[Paul Thornton]

This has been a great thread. Good luck, hope it is a simple fix.

L2800 w/FEL - 72" Land Pride rake

 

[kw22614]

You got it, girl! Easy for you.........

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Well, I am stuck on how to remove the ignition switch. There are several wires going to it, but no b/w wire as the one from the solenoid. :worried:

Here are some photos so far. I will gladly take more if needed:

The jagged hole is where the dealer installed the worklight switch...eeeeew!




I need to get the ignition switch removed so I can have better access to it and what's behind the cowling. Help? :begging:

Thanks again!

P.S...what's the best way to clean all the dirt off the wires, etc?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Theres a ring nut threaded onto the front side of the switch where the keyhole is. Turn that threaded ring CCW and remove it. That will free the IG switch.
karry

 

[doxford jim]

Just in case you haven't already done so, make sure you DISCONNECT the battery before you play with too many wires. Much better to be safe than sorry. Sounds like you will get it licked in a short time - you have lots of help here anyway.
Let us know how you made out.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Well, I am very close to making the decision of installing a bypass start switch There is no way I can remove the ring nut from the ignition switch...it is threaded to hold the bezel, made of what looks like potmetal, and I don't have the correct tool to fit in the tiny slots. I know it is possible to tap it with a screwdriver ccw, but if it gets damaged, I am screwed. It also looks like it was installed with some kind of sealant, maybe to make it waterproof? :sigh:



I followed the schematic that Kubota drew for me, and the blk/wht wire goes into the 4-way junction and then comes out brown. The brn goes into a big mess of something and disappears....



Followed brn to the safety relay, but it is located between the firewall and insturment cluster/dashboard and tearing all of that apart is not very appealing to an old rookie. Leaving the safety relay, the wire becomes blk/blu and goes directly to the top of the ignition switch. I pulled back the boot, and see there is perhaps a gap? I did not do any tweaking or anything until I hear from someone if this is normal or should it be corrected? Note: the blk/blu wire is part of the group of four contacts used in the "start" position on the ignition confused.



So, if there is no simple fix for the no start issue, a new bypass will be installed where the ugly hole for the work light switch was. It's close and convenient when starting the tractor and the light switch was always out of place. I'll try to relocate it on the other side of the steering wheel where the other light switches are. If the wires won't reach, I'll either splice into/lengthen them or locate the switch on the sidewall of the cowling.

There you have it. I'll wait for a while to see if anyone can enlighten me before the decision to install the new bypass is made.

Then I'll need some more exact instructions on where/how to do the new wiring. I've got stranded 16 AWG gauge in yellow and light green. Got all of the shrinky-dink tubes and connectors, solder, and a bit of courage

Thanks again!!

 

[Xfaxman]

I know it's been mentioned before, but are you sure the PTO is off? You said you didn't know how to turn it on, so how do you know it is off? Find the lever and check the safety switch that prevents staring if it is on.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[Old Gray Mare]

An update (again!):

I tested the blk/blu wire where it connects in back of the ignition switch. I stuck the red probe in the gap (see the photo) and the black probe to a frame bolt head. Key positions "off" and "on" yielded 0 volts. With the key to "start" it read 10.85 volts. Did I do it right? What do the results say to those who know such things? BTW...I made sure everything was not touching something to ground/short an exposed wire before I did the tests.

I know it's been mentioned before, but are you sure the PTO is off? You said you didn't know how to turn it on, so how do you know it is off? Find the lever and check the safety switch that prevents staring if it is on.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

What I will do tomorrow is take the PTO cover off and then jump start the tractor to visibly see if the shaft is turning. I have checked and rechecked, wiggled all the levers and key to no avail. I'll post the results

Thanks again everyone! I could not have gotten this far without your help and support :drink:

 

[2458n]

Nobody is saying anything but you are doing fine. I would think your voltage could be a little higher. Closer to 12. You need not worry about removing the ring it is tougher then it looks. You were correct in using a screw driver and hitting it with a hammer to loosen it up. CCW . The switch only is being held onto the dash by the collar- so if you can get it off the switch will be yours. Remember you need a hot going in and coming out of the switch. It would be easier to probe if you could get to all the wires. Someone who has a wiring diagram will be getting you the correct colors to test. Your doing fine.