Blown 30 amp fuse Jinma 224

[Affordable]

Check the Big white wire on the end of that 12-pin connector, that is normally the culprit

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[jaroban]

I checked the big white wire#2. It has no continuity from the starter solenoid to the twelve pin connector. The drawing that I have the #2 wire goes straight from the solenoid to the twelve pin connector. Do you know if the wire goes anywhere else? The next thing I am going to do is tear into the wiring harnes and see if the wire is broken or goes somewhere other than the twelve pin connector. My diagram dois not even show the twelve pin connector. Thanks Tommy ang Greg for your input so far. Robby

 

[greg_g]

Short of simply running a proper gauge wire, that would seem to be your next course of action. I personally think its a poorly engineered and constructed electrical system. Pinched wires are not uncommon. On mine, I added a glow plug relay, a starter relay, and proper 10ga primary wire in the high current draw paths

//greg//

 

[erj]

Jaroban

I have the Jinma 284. Here are a couple of things that I put together for my learning that may be of help to you.

Also if you need a wire diagram, do a search on this web-site for postings by RonMar. He created an excellent diagram that has been posted on several threads.

 

[jaroban]

Did you alter that junk clutch switch? If so what switch did you use? The original is at least .5 to long.

I am out of town for four days. I will get back to my electrical prob. when I get home.

I like your idea about just changing the # 2 wire

Thanks Robby

 

[greg_g]

I just bypassed the clutch interlock switch altogether. But just so there's no confusion, there's no direct relationship between that switch and wire #2.

Here's the deal on the clutch interlock switch: assuming 12v at the keyswitch, wire #10 only gets voltage with the key in the spring return START position. The interlock switch stops the voltage until energized by the clutch pedal. At that time, it permits the 12v to continue on to the starter solenoid via wire #11. Once that voltage hits the solenoid, it triggers a relay that temporarily connects the battery to the starter AND simultaneously causes the now spinning pinion gear to mesh with the ring gear on the flywheel. Once released, the spring loaded key returns to the RUN position and the 12v is removed from wires 10 and 11. This causes the solenoid cuts off starter voltage from the battery cable, and to retract the spring-return pinion gear.

The new circuit represented by my aftermarket starter relay mod did not include the clutch interlock switch. But to be fair, it also relies on getting 12v to the input post on the keyswitch.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

Got started this pm. I ran a new wire to replace the white wire(2). Presto I have gauges and lights. I still have to start it at the solenoid but I have several things unhooked. This has been an experience. I would have never dreamed that that wire could be broken while still in the wiring harnes. Robby

 

[JAndersen123]

I have a similar problem but my 30 amp fuse will power up my meters, but it will blow if I try to crank the starter. Would this point to a problem with the starter solenoid? Could taking it to an auto shop for testing help?

 

[SPIKER]

I have a similar problem but my 30 amp fuse will power up my meters, but it will blow if I try to crank the starter. Would this point to a problem with the starter solenoid? Could taking it to an auto shop for testing help?

that would most likely be a GLOW PLUG, if you have the tractor with a START on the LEFT TURN of the key try it which bypasses the HEAT setting just prior to CRANK. You still have to turn it right to the run spot for gauges to work then.

OR you can disconnect the wire leading to the glow plugs (make sure it can not short out tape up wire end.) That will let you know most likely a shorted out Glow Plug.

Pull Copper Bus Bar and OHM each one out, somewhere around .3 ohms if I remember right a search in this forum will tell you.

Mark

 

[JAndersen123]

that would most likely be a GLOW PLUG, if you have the tractor with a START on the LEFT TURN of the key try it which bypasses the HEAT setting just prior to CRANK. You still have to turn it right to the run spot for gauges to work then.

OR you can disconnect the wire leading to the glow plugs (make sure it can not short out tape up wire end.) That will let you know most likely a shorted out Glow Plug.

Pull Copper Bus Bar and OHM each one out, somewhere around .3 ohms if I remember right a search in this forum will tell you.

Mark

Mark,
I disconnected the wire to the glow plugs and nothing changed. The initial turn of the key will properly turn on the gauges but as soon as I try to engage the starter the main fuse blows. I am thinking of removing the starter and seeing if I can have it checked at an automotive supplier. Any idea of the best place to order parts for Jinma tractors in the US. The last time I ordered was from a place in Canada, which included import duties. Thanks.