wood splitter
- Thread starter ron65
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Leejohn
Elite Member
Well what I would do next is to put the gauge in the extend port on the valve and check dead head psi. If you get full psi there then it's the cyl and if not it's the valve or pump. Don't let it go over 2000psi just in case you have relief screwed in to far. Where the gauge is now you are checking the overall system
P.S. While you got the gauge there and if you have PSI then it would be a good time to set the relief valve.
P.S. While you got the gauge there and if you have PSI then it would be a good time to set the relief valve.
Last edited:
Leejohn
Just so I understand what your describing, you suggest removing hydraulic line from valve port that would normally extend piston and dead head my gauge in its place. Slowly move valve handle checking for pressure but not to exceed 2000 psi. This seems to be a test to check the cylinder. But would not the cylinder be fine based on what I did to it by a different test, which I described at the end of my first message? I reversed the hoses so when piston was fully extending with handle in the detent mode, it would kick out when piston was fully extended. Then if I over road the detent to try to extend piston further so I could get a pressure reading, the pressure shot up to 2,000 psi. Which seemed to show the cylinder was holding pressure. At one point I even placed a 4-5" piece of Tamarack cross wise the wedge and the piston sheared it about 3/4 of the way through before I could stop it. Would that tell you that the cylinder is likely o.k. before I start changing fittings for the test you mention above? Just trying to get out of any extra work since were having below 0 temps and these old bare fingers let me know quit quickly those temps.
And keep in mind I was sent a new pump which did not change anything, so I put the original pump back on. (Ever heard of two new bad pumps? That is the kind of luck I am noted for you know
Thanks for your time.
Leejohn
Elite Member
You would not be checking the cyl.. You are getting psi in detent and the gauge would be in the other port.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
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- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Just put the gage in the IN port in a tee and you will see any pressure that is developed.
The factory relief setting is about 2000 psi. It can be set up to 3000 psi, but you should limit it to the pump pressure.
If you can not get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke, then you have a problem.
However, if you do get high pressure pressure, then reset your main relief to your pumps max pressure minus 50 psi.
Pull the lever back to retract detent and watch the gage for current detent pressure. Then set detent kick off pressure to about 1200 psi.
The factory relief setting is about 2000 psi. It can be set up to 3000 psi, but you should limit it to the pump pressure.
If you can not get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke, then you have a problem.
However, if you do get high pressure pressure, then reset your main relief to your pumps max pressure minus 50 psi.
Pull the lever back to retract detent and watch the gage for current detent pressure. Then set detent kick off pressure to about 1200 psi.
Looks like you have some very knowledgeable people helping you here. I'll be following your progress as I know very little about hydraulics. Can't wait to find out what you all come up with! Thanks to everyone participating. 445A
Well, finally made it back. Had to put in a stair way to the second floor before Thanksgiving. Something about priorities. I was sure my log splitter would have been somewhere in that category, but others in the house didn't agree
But everyone's happy right now so I am happy except for my splitter.Had some time yesterday to run a few more tests.
Leejohn - I did what you suggested with dead heading the extend port on the valve with a gauge and still can only get about 5-600 psi. And still unable to adjust main pressure on valve. Can screw it in all the way and there is no change in pressure. So put everything back the way I had it (Tee with pressure gauge at main input on main valve body) and as before, can get 1500-2000 psi when piston is retracted all the way in and I hold lever from springing to neutral, and can also get the same pressure after fully extending or retracting log lift cylinder in either direction.
Not sure if this makes any difference, but with this valve having two spools in the same body, I noticed the handle which extends the main ram does not go in as far as the log lift handle. But maybe that is because the log lift does not have a detent?
Since the main adj screw does not make any difference just how hard is it to take that apart to see if something has plugged it? Would there be pieces flying all over. Never had one of these apart before.
Thanks again
J-J
Have put the gauge with a tee in the main IN port and still cannot get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke. When retracted and I hold lever from kicking out to neutral, the gauge can read 1500 - 2000 psi.
Cannot get the main relief setting to do anything even when screwed all the way in.
Thanks
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Your relief valve should be set to about 2950 psi.
Your two stage pump is capable of 3000 psi.
What pressure do you get at the end of the extended stroke?
Did you remove any of the relief valves to inspect them. If so, did you put all the parts back together correctly?
Your two stage pump is capable of 3000 psi.
What pressure do you get at the end of the extended stroke?
Did you remove any of the relief valves to inspect them. If so, did you put all the parts back together correctly?